Worklog: Marantz 2275 Restoration
- Thread starter aokman
- Start date
:Aokman, this is fantastic, I'm incredibly jealous... Also, I'm curious about the your photos with the white backgrounds, how do you shoot them and what do you shoot them with?
Very much looking forward to your next post...
SB Marantz
Well-Known Member
Nice 140 driverboards. ;-)
aokman
Marantz horder...
Hey all, the faceplate really wasn't that bad to do i dont think mine was anodized to be honest just seems like a sanded finish. I lightly worked at the scratches with some 120 and 360 paper until i was happy followed by a light run over with some brushes and felt wheels taking care not to put any shine into the metal. I only made very very fine brush marks with the paper against the metal to form a new layer over the top of the old scratches and that blends them back into the metal...
I redid the edges with a dremel carbide cutter to followed by sanding from 360 grit upto 1200
I use my own custom light boxes to do my photography, i have 2 so far and they run 10 CREE led's each with a 5hr battery life :yes:
I setup items on white boards and other objects for my photography purposes
heres some sample shots aswell
I redid the edges with a dremel carbide cutter to followed by sanding from 360 grit upto 1200
I use my own custom light boxes to do my photography, i have 2 so far and they run 10 CREE led's each with a 5hr battery life :yes:
I setup items on white boards and other objects for my photography purposes
heres some sample shots aswell
aokman
Marantz horder...
Yeah i heard that about the stereo lamp does it apply to the 2275 tho as this one has 8v O.O4a lamps all the way across. I would mind using leds but i id need to review the diagrams about converting those lamps to leds as far as i can tell the rotary switch just routes the dark green supply to each lamp but it might run to other places which would make it hard to convert to dc
Sanded the scratches out of the face and blended it in with the existing finish - filed and refinished the bezel sides from where the amp has been smacked into things also
There are different processes, and different results, but if you know anything about aluminum, it must be protected from the air to look nice, via a polish, clear lacquer or enamel, or anodizing. As far as this particular Marantz, the faceplate is anodized. Once the hard coating is removed, the surface oxidizes, forming an aluminum oxide coating (what else?) a few molecules thick. Aluminum oxide is unsightly in most forms, and unless protected in some way, will require constant maintenance in the form of polishing in order to keep it looking nice. In addition, once the anodizing is removed, it is usually impossible to make that section match other sections which have not been sanded.
I've passed on a lot of otherwise nice gear when shopping around because the faceplate had been sanded. I strongly discourage it. But it's your gear, so if you know the downsides and are willing to trade a dinged-up faceplate for a ruined one, go for it. I'd consider doing it only for a faceplate that was so bad it would otherwise be considered unusable.
aokman
Marantz horder...
Yes i have learnt many things about this over the years but i am yet to experience the white forms of corrosion on anything less than objects that sit outside for months on end or in very bad enviroments. Leading to this when you expose the core of aluminum it immediately becomes reactive to the enviroment and forms a new oxide layer that forms on the surface to protect it.
Extreme Ph levels can cause corrosion when the oxide layer cannot replenish itself quick enough.
Short of leaving it out in the rain i dont see a white oxide layer ever forming on a faceplate. Also i do not know what sort of anodizing they use but it must be very fine as mine looks like it came straight off a belt sander.
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Do as you like...I just didn't want to see a crowd of AK'ers armed with belt sanders & sanding blocks attacking otherwise decent faceplates.
Also had wanted to mention that the founder of this website has long used a pic of Capt. Piccard as his avatar. Out of respect for him, no other has used that image as his own avatar thus far. It certainly is not against any forum rules, but long-timers on AK view its use as being in bad taste. FYI.
Also had wanted to mention that the founder of this website has long used a pic of Capt. Piccard as his avatar. Out of respect for him, no other has used that image as his own avatar thus far. It certainly is not against any forum rules, but long-timers on AK view its use as being in bad taste. FYI.
aokman
Marantz horder...
sorry i meant no disrespect to the founder, he is obviously a big startrek fan also. I was planning on changing it once i did a photoshoot with the 2275 but i will remove it completely for now to keep the peace.
Im never suggesting that everyone go nuts on their faceplates, its not something everyone should have a go at. I just do it because surface scratches are not acceptable to me when i want to restore it to original condition
Im never suggesting that everyone go nuts on their faceplates, its not something everyone should have a go at. I just do it because surface scratches are not acceptable to me when i want to restore it to original condition
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aokman
Marantz horder...
update time again
plenty done this weekend, all of the bulbs have now been replaced with LED's - i have fitted diffuser blocks for all the source lights and fiddled with the main lighting until i got the uniform blue i was looking for
In the end i just fitted yellow LED's for the source lights and the flickering is hardly noticable, the rest of the unit has been converted to DC for the LED's though :thmbsp:
Also at the last minute i decided to install 3.3uf metal film bypass caps in parallel with the main filter caps.
Faceplate is back on and now i can work on the amp without fear of shorting something out
plenty done this weekend, all of the bulbs have now been replaced with LED's - i have fitted diffuser blocks for all the source lights and fiddled with the main lighting until i got the uniform blue i was looking for
In the end i just fitted yellow LED's for the source lights and the flickering is hardly noticable, the rest of the unit has been converted to DC for the LED's though :thmbsp:
Also at the last minute i decided to install 3.3uf metal film bypass caps in parallel with the main filter caps.
Faceplate is back on and now i can work on the amp without fear of shorting something out
aokman
Marantz horder...
na there is no way you would do that, the finish is impossible to recreate. When i said sanding the faceplate i used it very loosely aswell. It was more like a light rub to blend the scratch into the plate...
An interesting thing i found with this amp aswell is how susceptable it is to interference. I had it on the ground and was putting it through some tests when it started buzzing, when tilted it on its side the buzzing went away, i was baffled, then i lifted it off the ground and the buzzing went away. I put the bottom cover back on the amp and it went away aswell, seems they really need that shielding...
I love the pic of that 2275, its my inspiration
at the end of this i will have to replace a nob or 2 aswell It was a bit of a tight fit with those bypass caps, should have seen me trying to get the iron in around all the wires LOL!
ChrisMarantz
Super Member
This is a wonderful thread, great job! I would be interested in knowing what camera and lens you are using for your photographs.
Yankee Dog
Well-Known Member
na there is no way you would do that, the finish is impossible to recreate. When i said sanding the faceplate i used it very loosely aswell. It was more like a light rub to blend the scratch into the plate...
An interesting thing i found with this amp aswell is how susceptable it is to interference. I had it on the ground and was putting it through some tests when it started buzzing, when tilted it on its side the buzzing went away, i was baffled, then i lifted it off the ground and the buzzing went away. I put the bottom cover back on the amp and it went away aswell, seems they really need that shielding...
I love the pic of that 2275, its my inspiration
It was a bit of a tight fit with those bypass caps, should have seen me trying to get the iron in around all the wires LOL!
I have noticed the same buzzing thing with my 2275, two other 2220's, and a Pioneer sx-750. Can't remember if the 1060 did this. Great thread, thanks for posting all the info (everyone). Can't wait to start mine, this thread will of course be a big help. YD
aokman
Marantz horder...
Sorry for the lack of updates guys, been flat out at work and other things 
Anyway i put tonight aside and i managed to get all the front end wiring back in place, finished wiring in the DC converter board and after some hair pulling i got the tuner pulley system back together
I decided to go with all the original colors in the unit except with LED's
Anyway heres a couple of pics and a teaser of things to come
Anyway i put tonight aside and i managed to get all the front end wiring back in place, finished wiring in the DC converter board and after some hair pulling i got the tuner pulley system back together
I decided to go with all the original colors in the unit except with LED's
Anyway heres a couple of pics and a teaser of things to come
