World's BEST AC Outlets.....MAESRTO AC Outlets ???

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Nor do I have any issue with taking away anyone's TOL privileges or handing out suspensions if needed.

Again, if you are not interested in constructively contributing to this thread, then stay out of it.
 
First, I wouldn't (rather couldn't) spend 79 bones on an outlet. Second, I've read this post fairly carefully, and I've found one mention of installing a dedicated circuit. Had my BIL do exactly that, install a 20A circuit, to a dedicated breaker (screw the audiophile breaker) terminating at a hospital-grade outlet, which grips the plugs tenaciously. Saw a voltage increase approximating 3-5 volts depending on the time of day, and at the peak "sag" time (about 7-8pm) saw the sag virtually disappear. I can hear it now "you're nuts" and "how can he say what improved what since the outlet and circuit were installed at the same time?" Oh, and yes, I heard differences, particularly in bass extension and a lower noise floor. Let the sparks fly.....pun very intended.

EDIT: It's not my intention to hi-jack the thread and change the subject, I just wanted to share what I found. Apologies!
 
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Interesting post - thanks! :)

Didn't the BIL (whoever or whatever that is) cost more than a $79 outlet?
 
BIL = Brother-in-law. No, he did it for free, plus I helped. Took about two hours. And otherwise, yes, it probably would have cost a little more than $79, but, arguably far more significant results.
 
IMO you can buy either the hubbel or leviton 20 amp outlet and be done with it. what I mean to say is that your dmm will prove that either outlet will reveal its continuity, that is from terminal to spade, so if you have a 00 ohm reading you have pretty close to 100 percent continuity, think the 79 dollar outlet can do better than 100 percent, I do not, and I have tried this on both the hubbel and the leviton as well as the hospital grade stuff. now teflon tape.... may be a different story...or not...
 
The dedicated line eliminates noise or crap from other things, like appliances on the same circuit.

Like my washing machine. :)
 
The dedicated line eliminates noise or crap from other things, like appliances on the same circuit.

Like my washing machine. :)

Hi Gary,

Not necessarily (ever notice how nothing is ever simple?).

A breaker does not isolate you from noise that is on the same phase (residential power supply is 2 phase). If you ever have a chance to see your breaker panel/distribution center with the cover off you will notice that there are two separate busses - one for each phase. A breaker is simply a safety device that protects you from damage by excessive current draw or other conditions. They provide no power conditioning, filtration, etc.

Major appliances also usually get their own dedicated circuit by manufacturer specification as well as the NEC.

Also, if an appliance is 220 volts, its present on both phases, and therefore any noise it creates is available to anything else in your house.

Dedicated audio circuits are a very good practice - I just installed a pair in an addition to my house. If you install more than one, though, make sure they are on the same phase to prevent ground loop hum.
 
Dedicated audio circuits are a very good practice - I just installed a pair in an addition to my house. If you install more than one, though, make sure they are on the same phase to prevent ground loop hum.

I've seen fairly convincing information go each way with regard to keep on the same leg or doesn't really matter.

I'm near to a decision about running a subpanel that will be dedicated to my HT system and I'll be using both legs. When you spread that load over both legs on a common neutral circuit such as the feeder to the panel will be (and as is the service drop to the main panel), afaik, voltage drop reduced. I may even run the circuits from the subpanel to the receptacles as common neutral circuits. Not only does it make the wiring easier and cheaper (one run of 12/3 vs 2 runs of 12/2, for example), it further serves to minimize voltage drop in the wiring.
 
I've seen fairly convincing information go each way with regard to keep on the same leg or doesn't really matter.

I'm near to a decision about running a subpanel that will be dedicated to my HT system and I'll be using both legs. When you spread that load over both legs on a common neutral circuit such as the feeder to the panel will be (and as is the service drop to the main panel), afaik, voltage drop reduced. I may even run the circuits from the subpanel to the receptacles as common neutral circuits. Not only does it make the wiring easier and cheaper (one run of 12/3 vs 2 runs of 12/2, for example), it further serves to minimize voltage drop in the wiring.

I think you are spot on in focusing on voltage drop, and that's the main reason I went with dedicated circuits. I went with 20 A and used 10 gauge. Technically, not necessary and a wee bit more expensive than 12, but I tend to over engineer a bit.
 
First, I wouldn't (rather couldn't) spend 79 bones on an outlet. Second, I've read this post fairly carefully, and I've found one mention of installing a dedicated circuit. Had my BIL do exactly that, install a 20A circuit, to a dedicated breaker (screw the audiophile breaker) terminating at a hospital-grade outlet, which grips the plugs tenaciously. Saw a voltage increase approximating 3-5 volts depending on the time of day, and at the peak "sag" time (about 7-8pm) saw the sag virtually disappear. I can hear it now "you're nuts" and "how can he say what improved what since the outlet and circuit were installed at the same time?" Oh, and yes, I heard differences, particularly in bass extension and a lower noise floor. Let the sparks fly.....pun very intended.

EDIT: It's not my intention to hi-jack the thread and change the subject, I just wanted to share what I found. Apologies!

Very possible it made a difference.

It is also possible that if you had shut down your service, removed the current breaker, cleaned the buss bar where it was connected, disassembled the circuit breaker and cleaned or refurbished the contacts, and cleaned and tightened all the wire connections in the old circuit, it might have given you the same results.
 
Very possible it made a difference.

It is also possible that if you had shut down your service, removed the current breaker, cleaned the buss bar where it was connected, disassembled the circuit breaker and cleaned or refurbished the contacts, and cleaned and tightened all the wire connections in the old circuit, it might have given you the same results.

The fusebox and breakers are only 3 years old, however, the existing wiring was older than dirt (fabric wrapped). If the fusebox and breakers were as old as the house, I would agree with you on that one.
 
BIL = Brother-in-law. No, he did it for free, plus I helped. Took about two hours. And otherwise, yes, it probably would have cost a little more than $79, but, arguably far more significant results.

How do you Know?

Just saying,

Jim
 
How do you Know?

I'm basing it on the findings of increased voltage, no sags, and the fact that the existing 70 y/o wiring had to have high resistance. It seems to me that adding a fancy outlet to an existing circuit would be like trying to heat your house with a toaster. Regardless of my feeble analogy, if I'm wrong then I'd like to know!
 
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I'm basing it on the findings of increased voltage, no sags, and the fact that the existing 70 y/o wiring had to have high resistance.
It would be interesting to have a metallurgist sample and compare the composition of the two wires and see if there is a difference. I'm sure the standards for copper wire has changed over the years. Perhaps the "purer" copper of old times isn't as good where audio equipment is concerned. Maybe it's the "garbage" in the newer alloys that is doing all the good.:scratch2:
 
It would be interesting to have a metallurgist sample and compare the composition of the two wires and see if there is a difference. I'm sure the standards for copper wire has changed over the years. Perhaps the "purer" copper of old times isn't as good where audio equipment is concerned. Maybe it's the "garbage" in the newer alloys that is doing all the good.:scratch2:

Thats a very good point...........hmmmm. I'll try to find out what brand of wiring he used, not regular Romex, but some special 10/3 he got just for my project.
 
Im not sure how it rolls in USA, but here modern wire is largely made of recycled copper.
One example of how the standard of copper has changed is with water heaters, I had a water heater (copper tank) in my previous house which failed (the tank blew and started leaking, fatigue under pressure), the water heater was 60 years old, that's a good run wouldn't you say.
My new house has a heater which was 15 years old and blew in the same way. I asked the plumber why, and he told the trend is that a cylinder would last 50years manufactured in the 50's and 60's, but now because of the recycled copper you can expect to get only 10-15 years...........
He also told most of the cylinders failing now are only 10 to 15 years old.

My point is although the wiring in some houses might be 60 years old or more, it certainly wont be made of recycled copper, which means the electrical properties are likely to exceed most cabling made today.

One thing I have noticed in my modern house, is that the power is more "dirty" than my old house, but in my new house it has modern circuit breakers modern wiring standards, and yet with my guitar amps which are high gain, there is more noise happening....

Im attributing this to the lower quality cable being produced today, lower quality meaning recycled copper. So , really there are few options to help this, but one is to look into the power connections, average connectors do not work that well, and this would be even more apparent when the supply cable isnt as good as it could be.............

Just a theory, Im not sure if there is substance to what I am saying but who knows? Could be something there.
 
First, I wouldn't (rather couldn't) spend 79 bones on an outlet. Second, I've read this post fairly carefully, and I've found one mention of installing a dedicated circuit. Had my BIL do exactly that, install a 20A circuit, to a dedicated breaker (screw the audiophile breaker) terminating at a hospital-grade outlet, which grips the plugs tenaciously. Saw a voltage increase approximating 3-5 volts depending on the time of day, and at the peak "sag" time (about 7-8pm) saw the sag virtually disappear. I can hear it now "you're nuts" and "how can he say what improved what since the outlet and circuit were installed at the same time?" Oh, and yes, I heard differences, particularly in bass extension and a lower noise floor. Let the sparks fly.....pun very intended.

EDIT: It's not my intention to hi-jack the thread and change the subject, I just wanted to share what I found. Apologies!
I don't have any dedicated lines but with these maestro outlets in my system I'm "now hearing" very powerful bass I've never heard before in my system and a very low noise floor. The music sounds more rounded at the edges more liquid and sweet and relaxed sounding with a 3D image that is "VERY ADDICTIVE" !... No other AC outlet has ever had this kind of effect in my system !....this is a very special product indeed !....
:smoke:
 
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