Discussion in 'Marantz Audio' started by Jailtime, Nov 15, 2017.
That sounds like the one AK member Lurp makes and sells on eBay, I've used several by now.
Just got mine back from the repair guy. He insisted that a full restoration was not necessary so we went for a typical service/recap.He gave me a bag full of caps,cleaned the whole thing on the inside and everything. I let it rest for a day to allow any chemicals to dry,and tested it. There are no more scratchy sounds when I use the knobs,the sound is overall clearer BUT at the phono stage I got a slight decrease in volume. It kinda gets better when I use the loudness switch,but I remember I didnt have to use that before.
Sorry for spamming your thread, but I thought since you know the whole thing inside out you could help
Congratulations on the great job btw!!!!Stunning!
Randy: I agree, LURP make great lamp housings.
In my experience, the phone volume is always a little lower that the other inputs. The standard for line level back when these were made was something like .775VRMS, now it's closer to 2VRMS.
A phono cart with a higher output might help a bit.
I think your receiver is OK.
After a full recap of my 2325, I noticed the same thing. Volume had to be upped when going from FM to Phono. After some discussion here on AK, I decided it was likely normal. Unfortunately, it was a new unit to me and I didn't play it a lot before recapping, so don't know if it was the same before the work. But the small change needed in volume doesn't bother me now, so I'm leaving it alone.
Every Marantz receiver I've had was louder on the tuner inputs than the AUX / Phono / Tape inputs, for a given volume setting. That's what all the travel in the volume control is for, I figure.
After a couple of hours on my headphones with some quality vinyls playing I am truly convinced thats its no big deal. Its still extremely powerful. But most important the sound is amazing!
Thank you guys for the wisdom and help! Cheers
Now we're having fun! I decided to quit being lazy and do the FM MPX board and the relays, one of the relays has totally black contacts.
The relays are every bit as infuriating as I remember. Just remove the 8 screws for the speaker terminals in the back, this will free up the board. Then pull the middle and left screws by the relays that hold the metal terminal brackets. Remove screws that hold the back panel, you only need about 30 degrees of tilt to get some room to work. Then heat the eyelets and gently work the speaker terminals free from the board, you only have to do the two that are covering up the relay pins. It's just that easy!
Omron MY4-02-DC48s are out of stock everywhere, at least until late summer. I ordered some Finder 55.14.9.048 relays from a distributor in Poland, TME. They're rated for 7A on the contacts while the Omrons are only 3A, for what it's worth.
The MPX board is just about as miserable, I desoldered the whole row of pins on the back edge, this allows the board to flip up 90 degrees, enough to do a fairly easy recap. You will definitely want the amplifier board, heatsink, and power supply out for this one.
Too late now, but face stands help with access to the MPX board
It's not done yet, I only had 3 of the caps I needed on hand. Might have to build some of those face stands.
Between my facestands and a lazy susan, I can get access to almost any board. Now, if only my back was as flexible....."the pain....the pain".
An overhead crane or an engine hoist would be just about right for moving a 4400 around on the bench.
Impressive! Nice work Jailtime. You guys inspire us neanderthals.
I've been doing a 4400 lately. I tried a new method to replace the relays in back and thankfully, I already had some on hand. I start at the terminals closest to the right side of the chassis (when looking in from the front panel end). I heat up the solder while prying outwards on the board and work it off a bit at a time. This way the terminals don't have to be removed which is indeed a pain to deal with. You do have to be careful to not burn wires when doing it this way.
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