WTLC's - I joined the club

Coastsider

Curmudgeon
All of this talk about WTLC's lately got my attention, so when a pair showed up locally this week I took the leap. In fact I just got them back to the house a couple of hours ago and will attach some garage "arrival" shots.

Of course the woofers - all four - are cheap replacements which I knew going in, and so will require re-replacing. I did some research over the last couple of days ever since deciding I would probably get them, and determined that the suggested replacement for the stock WTLC 8" woofer is the same as the suggested replacement for the stock Qe 8" woofer so using my facility for simple deduction I started looking for Qe woofers as well as WTLC woofers as I also deduced that I would probably have more luck finding them than I would the originals. As luck would have it, or fate some might say, I not only found a pair of Qe's with one bad EMIT local to me that I won't feel too guilty about gutting, but also a loose pair of Qe woofers on eBay for a reasonable price. Problem sort of solved.

The only other issue is a possibly bad Walsh tweeter. I haven't pulled it and tested it yet but when I demo'd the speakers it was not making any sound. Fortunately the other one does work and I have spares enough to replace the bad one if it is indeed bad.

The really good news is that the cabinets, grills, and tops are in very good condition and even include the glass for the tops as well as both badges. Some of the black vinyl, or whatever it is that covers the top of the cabinets is coming loose but can easily be glued back down.

I am not going to use these until I have finish replacing the woofers and the bad Walsh if necessary. I know the woofers will not be original but they will be a close cousin to the originals. They have paper cones like the WTLC woofers, but butyl surrounds instead of foam. I was even thinking of coating the two for the bottoms with this stuff called "The Wet Look" that I got from Parts Express. It is meant to protect paper cones but might, by applying a couple of extra coats, add some stiffness such as Infinity did with the tar like substance they applied to the bottom drivers on at least some WTLC's, as well as the 12" woofers in all of the iterations of the Monitor series. I'll think about that a bit more and probably experiment on some old drivers I have first. I will also have a close look at the crossovers but will probably put off any thoughts of recapping for another time unless I find something that requires immediate attention.

Since I am so short of space, the WTLC's will likely replace a pair of Ohm Walsh 2's that are conveniently just about the same size. The fate of the Ohm's, which I really like, is as yet undecided since the WTLC's will not be ready to move in for awhile giving me some time to think about it.
 

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Congrats... I had pairs of the Ohm Walsh 2, 2x0, and 3 when I got my first pair of WTLC's. I sold them all after first listen of my then newly refoamed WTLC's.
 
Bump. I just purchased a set of WTLCs also. They look good but the woofers need to be refoamed. My question is simple. It seems easy to remove the front woofers as you can access them but how do you access the bottom woofers?
Thanks,
-frank
 
Nevermind the bottom platform came off with a little tugging <g> and the bottom woofer is as accessible as the top.
Now to order some surrounds. Should I start thinking about redoing the xovers also?
thanks,
-frank
 
If you lay the speaker on it's back the black "stand" on the bottom just pulls off.

I would suggest as a precaution if you are going to be pulling the woofers is to carefully remove the Walsh tweeters on the top first since with the top of the speaker removed they are so vulnerable. That will also give you a chance to test them with an ohmmeter since they are pretty fragile and lots of them got blown out by the previous owner(s).

The bottom firing woofers are the same model number but are different than the front firing pair in that they have a heavier coating of the black doping material that Infinity used on them, so be sure to put them back in the proper location after refoaming them. Also with regard to reconnecting the bottom firing woofers, the schematic has them wired out of phase but I found with mine the bass response was much better with them in phase. Mark how each is connected (wire color) to each terminal and reconnect them the same way The WTLC's have great bass so if it isn't great when you get them back together, you can experiment by changing the connectors on the bottom firing drivers to see if the bass is improved.

The front and rear firing Peerless tweeters on the WTLC's are also pretty fragile so be careful of them when you are moving things around. The cones get really dry and splt easily.

If you don't have the crossover schematic here's a link:

http://www.infinity-classics.de/technik/manuals/WTLC_technical_sheet.pdf
 
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You beat me to it.

I haven't recapped the crossovers in mine yet because of the limited accessibility through the 8" hole in the bottom but I'll get around to it eventually. I am recapping the crossovers in my recently acquired Infinity 2000II's and will probably get back to the WTLC's once I am done with them.

Oh, and I have managed to find all original replacement drivers for my WTLC's except for one front firing woofer so I am still using the Infinity suggested poly-coned replacement woofers in those positions. The WTLC's really sound great and now have a place of prominence in my living room as the primary 2-channel system so I can reserve my Home Theater setup for just that purpose since it is not optimally configured for stereo.
 
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Could anyone tell me the two capacitors used in the WTLC?
The little one has a value printed but the large one seems to have nothing printed on them.
Thanks a million.
 
Could anyone tell me the two capacitors used in the WTLC?
The little one has a value printed but the large one seems to have nothing printed on them.
Thanks a million.

Welcome the WTLC Club!
The Infinity schematic calls for each cap to measure 3,5uf but that larger capacitor is a little disconcerting.
My suggestion is buy a capacitance meter but they are a bit pricey:)
Or take the unmarked cap to a shop with a cap meter...so I can go ahead with my WTLC recap:)
 
Ahhhh ic, so really no one here really knows the "correct" value for the larger cap.
But yes I do have a meter and know how to use it. The thing is, since there is a tolerance on these caps of +-20% it means value may not be precisely what is called for. Plus it may have shifted beyond this tolerance from time. So there's still no real way of confirming the designated value of the large cap.
Another member here has stated he used two 3.6uf for each speaker.
Meaning:
small 3.5uf--> 3.6uf
big XXX ---> 3.6uf
So you see they won't be even near spec but he said it works!
Will keep you updated.
 
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Update:I took out both Large Capacitors in the WTLC,
tested them with a meter:
6.97uf and
6.72uf.
The first reading I used a soldering iron to try to detach the second
lower reading cap I used only cutters. Whether heat elevates the reading (by damage) I do not know.
There you have it guys a definite judgment that the schematics online from the manufacturer is incorrect (unless someone out have different findings).
On to parts express: have to decide on a value to purchase now.
 
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