clinic-audio
all on YAMAHA untill 1990
Yamaha b1
another one
another one
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Yamaha B-1 VS B-2 ? Can anyone describe ?
- Thread starter pw8888
- Start date
clinic-audio
all on YAMAHA untill 1990
Yamaha b1
Sorry I forget another view of the first kit !
Sorry I forget another view of the first kit !
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clinic-audio
all on YAMAHA untill 1990
Yamaha b1
The kit in place
The kit in place
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clinic-audio
all on YAMAHA untill 1990
Yamaha b1
Last pictures serie :thmbsp:
Last pictures serie :thmbsp:
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clinic-audio
all on YAMAHA untill 1990
Yamaha b1
Hello Vingtage
Have you changed the silicon grease on every heatsinks on the boards ? :scratch2:
Hello Vingtage
Have you changed the silicon grease on every heatsinks on the boards ? :scratch2:
Very nice indeed!
It's on my list of things that still need doing. :yes:
Look'en real good! I'm thinking 22K would be a good upgrade; I'll bet there's some scary inrush current on the 27K's ...
When can I get mine? :scratch2:
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clinic-audio
all on YAMAHA untill 1990
Yamaha b1
Hello Vingt age
Here is the picture !
Take off the screws referenced in blue (1 to 4) :thmbsp:
Hello Vingt age
Here is the picture !
Take off the screws referenced in blue (1 to 4) :thmbsp:
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new filter caps on this amp made a bigger difference than on any other amp i've tried. i would definitely make sure you do that once you finish everything else up.
Avionic's workup looks really nice. my solution was a little more "handmade" but only requires a sheet of Delrin. i'm sure you've seen that thread. if you were to follow that path, take advantage of my experience and make sure to use stranded wire for easier soldering and connect the grounds of the caps as soon as possible, rather than connecting multiple grounds later at the ground buss.
Avionic's workup looks really nice. my solution was a little more "handmade" but only requires a sheet of Delrin. i'm sure you've seen that thread. if you were to follow that path, take advantage of my experience and make sure to use stranded wire for easier soldering and connect the grounds of the caps as soon as possible, rather than connecting multiple grounds later at the ground buss.
I'm working on a board that will basically drop right in where the origin caps were and not need any new wiring ...
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Harolda
Well-Known Member
The solution on this thread:
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=477461
would also be an option for the stacked caps or not?
I will receive my B1 in a few days and i read already a lot here and elsewhere what to do and not to do. What i noticed is that on www.amp8.com these caps are never replaced.
regards
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=477461
would also be an option for the stacked caps or not?
I will receive my B1 in a few days and i read already a lot here and elsewhere what to do and not to do. What i noticed is that on www.amp8.com these caps are never replaced.
regards
Not doable with 15000uF 100V caps.
Yup, there's lots of ways to put new caps in that space.
I'd like to replace them for 2 reasons. IMHO 15000uF is a little light for this amp and it could benefit from a bit more storage (18000uF). Secondly, when I had the caps out I charged them up and left them sitting unloaded for about 12 hours. One cap held its charge quite nicely across both sections while the - section of the other one didn't do quite so well in that there was more leakage which says to me it's starting to show its age ... sorta like me. :tears:
