YAMAHA B-3 on the way...to me!

Aw man, read this whole thread and no happy ending? Cosmin, what happened to your B-3? Rottalpha did you buy a B-3 or 2?
Greetings! Long time since I have posted here. Since my last post, my B-3 worked flawlessly last winter in conjunction with a Luxman L-5 (which was fully reccaped) and Yamaha NS-1000M. I guess it was all about the "preamp" I was using (i.e. my laptop).
To give a good image a what a B-3 can do, I will say it sounds better than Accuphase P-260 with the same preamplifier and speakers. What a sound!

P.S.: Now I am considering whether to buy a second B-3 or a preamp like Yamaha C-2/ CX-1 for my current B-3.

IMG_20181221_110732.jpg
 
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Greetings! Long time since I have posted here. Since my last post, my B-3 worked flawlessly last winter in conjunction with a Luxman L-5 (which was fully reccaped) and Yamaha NS-1000M. I guess it was all about the "preamp" I was using (i.e. my laptop).
To give a good image a what a B-3 can do, I will say it sounds better than Accuphase P-260 with the same preamplifier and speakers. What a sound!

P.S.: Now I am considering whether to buy a second B-3 or a preamp like Yamaha C-2/ CX-1 for my current B-3.

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walnut color NS-1000Ms? were did you have those refinished? they look really good. Do you have more photos?
 
I wouldn't blindly change all small-signal transistors unless they are known to go bad/noisy, many modern subs can be lacking in certain areas compared to original parts. Oilmaster would be the resident expert on "what is mandatory to change", I'm not sure if he'd share that info here - although I think it would be very handy for future B-3 owners without access to his services.

If you intend to keep the piece forever, it's probably worth tracking down an expert on V-FET pieces - as much as that's probably not what you want to hear. Some careful packaging and insured shipping to/from a reputable tech is probably a safer bet than letting a non-expert tackle the job.

There's some interesting pictures here showing replacement of various parts during maintenance:
http://www.hifido.co.jp/KWYamaha+B-3/G1/E/0-10/C12-68890-54800-00/

Not sure if the jump to 39,000uF is excessive - perhaps @Oilmaster could comment?

Oilmaster is right , I will not use 39000µF in my B3
27000µF is the original value and that's what I will use

Here are B3 specifications for those who need to know

B3-specifications.JPG
 
Has anyone here thoroughly tested the original bulk caps in their units before changing them? I mean, out of the unit and after reformed?
 
Doing that before the end of the year; have to eventually start the revamp of a B-3 of a socal AKer after it played for quite some time in my living room :rolleyes:

Still have to sort out exactly which 63~65mm diameter power supply caps I am gonna use for that, as the Nippon Chemi-Con U36D are definitely banned for any future use following very dissapointing comparison test in a recent Sony TA-N7B rebuilt.
That test also proofed that increasing the values is causing horrible dominant lows, and that 20,000uF caps (down from 22,000uF) provided much better staging, detail and tight bass than caps uprated 27,000uF.
I will not quickly return to increasing PSU cap values !
As such, I may do simular tests in the B-3, but it such a pain to open that thing up and assemble it again that I may refrain from it.
The 20k uf caps are also a different class than the u36u ;)
 
horrible dominant lows, and that 20,000uF caps (down from 22,000uF) provided much better staging, detail and tight bass
You've provided capacitance values alone (and a subjective review of unknown parts in a completely different amp), but no mention of ripple current values, exact make/model/dimensions or usage/age of the caps being compared?

Useful information. :biggrin:
 
You've provided capacitance values alone (and a subjective review of unknown parts in a completely different amp), but no mention of ripple current values, exact make/model/dimensions or usage/age of the caps being compared?

Useful information. :biggrin:

Maybe the answer was meant to be referring to the metadata rather than provide specific model number...

Imagine you went and bought that part and for one reason or another, you're finding that it does not meet your expectations...
I don't think I would be too far off thinking this might be a reason why you didn't see a specific model number
 
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NCC U36D capacitors might not be the right ones to get (for me).
May not be ideal (in general) which is why I asked what you were comparing to, I've saved a bunch of ripple current data for various caps in this particular application (63mm diameter for B-3). European / US brand filter caps (Kemet / BHC / Rifa and even CDE) have far greater ripple values than Japanese (including U36D) for a given size / capacitance. I wouldn't have used the U36D personally, based on the spec sheet.

I think these sonic deficit scenarios are often a function of lower ripple values (obviously higher ESR too), in my experience the aforementioned European brands work better as filter caps in most amps I've tested them in now. Having great results with the new Kemet lineup so far (ALS30 / ALS40 and even ALS70).

In no way am I condoning huge capacitance values as that link in Hifido earlier - my point is that your subjective sonic deficit is likely a result of using an entirely different capacitor. To usefully compare sonic results of capacitance alone, you'd have to compare to the same brand/model/age while holding all other specs equal.
 
Regarding a proper preamp to drive the Yamaha B-3. Which one of these models would you recommend or had any previous experiences with?
1. Yamaha CX-1, 100V version, has remote controlled volume
2. Yamaha C-2, classical Yamaha preamp from the same era of B-3, usually the preamp of the Yamaha B-2
3. Luxman 5C50, 100V version, this is from Laboratory Reference series, has some funky ICs
4. Luxman C-1010, also 100V version
5. Sansui BA-F1, companion preamp of the BA-F1 power amp
6. Sansui CA-2000, companion preamp of the BA-2000 power amp
Any other suggestions are highly appreciated!
 
On the other hand, do these transistors look original to you? Do you think, based on these pics, that the thermal paste was changed?
 

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Yes !

these pictures are coming from B2 power output heatsinks .
2SJ26A and 2SK76A are power VFET power transistors for B2 and B3 only !
 
clinic-audio, Vint Age, thanks for the comments! This B-2 is not mine. Wish to make it mine though. Talked with the seller and he promises to be in very good working order. The price is actually a bit smaller than a B-3 that I am also watching for some time...
 
Greetings to all! I put aside the B-2 from the above pics although the price was very tempting and the condition appeared to be also good. Moreover, I have searched and found a couple of preamps with, presumably, a good matching with my current Yamaha B-3. I have found numerous preamps from Yamaha like CX-1, CX-2, C-2 on 220V-240V or 100V, Sansui CA-2000 or CA-F1, Luxman 5C50 or C-1010 (both on 100V), an interesting Adcom GTP-750 (with remote control)...
I let all of these go for...you guessed it another YAMAHA B-3. Is on the way to me as I type this message.
The seller promised is fully functional and I quote "90% as new machine":D. This time I had to pay a little more than the previous B-3.:no:
Can't wait to listen to this one alongside the previous and NS-1000Ms in BTL mode.
By the way, any thoughts on the qualities of B-3 in BTL mode? Does it sound better than in stereo mode?
I attach some picture with this beauty.
B-3 _pic2.jpg B-3.jpg B-3 _pic3.jpg B-3 _pic4.jpg B-3 _pic5.jpg B-3 _pic6.jpg B-3 _pic7.jpg B-3 _pic8.jpg
 
My B-3 has finally arrived, serial no. 03767 (I wonder how many are in total... ).
The Chinese seller was right, it is one of the best conservated pieces of audio gear I have seen. Spotless, no dust inside or outside, I felt like I was going back in time in 1978. Only from the aesthetics point of view, comparing this one with my previous B-3 does not make any sense. The inside is all original with the Yamaha 2SK76A and 2SJ26A V-FETs, although I have noticed that the 2SJ76A do not have the "C" inscription. The previous B-3 had all the V-FETs inscripted with a small "C". Any arguments to explain this?
Pictures do not make any justice on how great this B-3 looks... Pics soon.
 
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