Ah, I have seen this pic before, just forgot. Nice!
Ah, I have seen this pic before, just forgot. Nice!
Greetings! Long time since I have posted here. Since my last post, my B-3 worked flawlessly last winter in conjunction with a Luxman L-5 (which was fully reccaped) and Yamaha NS-1000M. I guess it was all about the "preamp" I was using (i.e. my laptop).Aw man, read this whole thread and no happy ending? Cosmin, what happened to your B-3? Rottalpha did you buy a B-3 or 2?
walnut color NS-1000Ms? were did you have those refinished? they look really good. Do you have more photos?Greetings! Long time since I have posted here. Since my last post, my B-3 worked flawlessly last winter in conjunction with a Luxman L-5 (which was fully reccaped) and Yamaha NS-1000M. I guess it was all about the "preamp" I was using (i.e. my laptop).
To give a good image a what a B-3 can do, I will say it sounds better than Accuphase P-260 with the same preamplifier and speakers. What a sound!
P.S.: Now I am considering whether to buy a second B-3 or a preamp like Yamaha C-2/ CX-1 for my current B-3.
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I wouldn't blindly change all small-signal transistors unless they are known to go bad/noisy, many modern subs can be lacking in certain areas compared to original parts. Oilmaster would be the resident expert on "what is mandatory to change", I'm not sure if he'd share that info here - although I think it would be very handy for future B-3 owners without access to his services.
If you intend to keep the piece forever, it's probably worth tracking down an expert on V-FET pieces - as much as that's probably not what you want to hear. Some careful packaging and insured shipping to/from a reputable tech is probably a safer bet than letting a non-expert tackle the job.
There's some interesting pictures here showing replacement of various parts during maintenance:
http://www.hifido.co.jp/KWYamaha+B-3/G1/E/0-10/C12-68890-54800-00/
Not sure if the jump to 39,000uF is excessive - perhaps @Oilmaster could comment?
The 20k uf caps are also a different class than the u36uDoing that before the end of the year; have to eventually start the revamp of a B-3 of a socal AKer after it played for quite some time in my living room
Still have to sort out exactly which 63~65mm diameter power supply caps I am gonna use for that, as the Nippon Chemi-Con U36D are definitely banned for any future use following very dissapointing comparison test in a recent Sony TA-N7B rebuilt.
That test also proofed that increasing the values is causing horrible dominant lows, and that 20,000uF caps (down from 22,000uF) provided much better staging, detail and tight bass than caps uprated 27,000uF.
I will not quickly return to increasing PSU cap values !
As such, I may do simular tests in the B-3, but it such a pain to open that thing up and assemble it again that I may refrain from it.
You've provided capacitance values alone (and a subjective review of unknown parts in a completely different amp), but no mention of ripple current values, exact make/model/dimensions or usage/age of the caps being compared?horrible dominant lows, and that 20,000uF caps (down from 22,000uF) provided much better staging, detail and tight bass
You've provided capacitance values alone (and a subjective review of unknown parts in a completely different amp), but no mention of ripple current values, exact make/model/dimensions or usage/age of the caps being compared?
Useful information.
May not be ideal (in general) which is why I asked what you were comparing to, I've saved a bunch of ripple current data for various caps in this particular application (63mm diameter for B-3). European / US brand filter caps (Kemet / BHC / Rifa and even CDE) have far greater ripple values than Japanese (including U36D) for a given size / capacitance. I wouldn't have used the U36D personally, based on the spec sheet.NCC U36D capacitors might not be the right ones to get (for me).
Yes indeed!On the other hand, do these transistors look original to you?
Maybe yes and maybe no. BTW yours looks like a very nice one.Do you think, based on these pics, that the thermal paste was changed?