Yamaha C-70 Circuit Qustions

AJMatthew

New Member
Got a C-70 with the infamous right channel dropout. When I got it I cleaned it with deoxit but paid attention mostly to the green side since I am just getting into vintage gear and not sure exactly what to look for. So I have several pics with questions if anyone can answer them I'd love to hear any advice or discussion.

The underside has some dark areas in particular. Does this grantee a part needs to be replaced? What causes this? dark underside.JPG
On this thought does a dark side correlate directly to the other side? There are three leaking caps in this area but no black underneath those.
Equalizer board, black underneath appearto be leaking.JPG
Does black underside ensure bad part.JPG

What should I look for in a leaking cap?
Leakingornot..JPG

I'm pretty sure one of the aspects of leaking cap is when block crusty residue emits from below. Does a cap bulge before leaking? Do they happen separately?


Below is a picture of the source of some suspected bad caps that had black crusty spread wide over other circuit parts. Does this ruin those? Leakingreplace.JPG

Does a part look bad but perfectly fine? If there is a burnt color above it would this be a part that needs to be replaced?

What traits are there to look for in parts going bad? Are these bulging, or just look funny?
Goodorbadrecap.JPG

I am curious if this unit has been serviced on. The circled relay switch does not match the other Matsushita HB2E-DC24V parts. It not only is a different shade of orange, but the label is different, but the part number is the same. More relays could have been replaced or none, what is the best way to tell? Multimeter?
Relays.JPG
 
What should I look for in a leaking cap?
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Adhesive
 
Was this Yamaha you think or a technician and does it matter if it spreads over to other components?
OEM manufacturing process.If its causing corrosion*. Yes its and issue. If not ,no issue.

* dried sony bond glue( blackened flaky) attracts moisture and will corrode anything metallic it is in contact with.
 
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I'm pretty sure one of the aspects of leaking cap is when block crusty residue emits from below. Does a cap bulge before leaking?
No. Fairly new cap leakage is oily brown liguid. Old leakage is a yellowish brown and powdery.
 
I am curious if this unit has been serviced on. The circled relay switch does not match the other Matsushita HB2E-DC24V parts. It not only is a different shade of orange, but the label is different, but the part number is the same. More relays could have been replaced or none, what is the best way to tell? Multimeter?
More than one vender of the same relay. And probably all made by Matsushita.
 
There are three leaking caps in this area but no black underneath those.
More glue.Not leaky...
 
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Referencing the red circle.Not capacitors. I believe there inductors with plastic sleaves and more glue.
Referencing red arrow. No. They are probably fine.
 
Certainly check for dry solder joints (google for pixs) under a magnifying lamps.
You will need to work out where the right channel audio is being lost, an oscilloscope
would be handy, otherwise an audio probe or a good MM might even pic it up (eg, supply 60Hz...)
The relays do have a history of failing, RY502 went intermittent on mine.
 
What should I look for in a leaking cap?
index.php
Adhesive
Hi Avionic, Not on subject of this post, but hey - I see you were 57FIS in Iceland and I was also - was one of Cadre team for F4 to F15 conversion back in 85-86 in AIS with MTS, maybe we crossed paths or new each other? I'm on FB- Bob Nurmi - drop a line, be good to share some ol 57 FIS stories!!
 
For those of you that have bought relays to replace ones that have gone out, where did you find them? I bought some "new" ones from ebay that were clearly used. Are they discontinued and in reality no new ones will be available? Is there a way to test the relays to ensure they're good before installing them with a multi meter or other tool?
 
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