Yamaha C2A preamp: another thread about crackling and popping

My SUBSONIC FILTER issue effects both channels equally, when off it sounds great, on is like switching to AM radio.

Most of what I did was LEFT/RIGHT channel pairs, if I erred I did it twice (one for each channel).

I have it apart, might as well take a few pictures. It'll look great once the cover is back on.

Going back together to enjoy for a while until recap, I never use the subsonic filter so I'll worry about it later.

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The offending U-joint.

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I found the source of the fault in C-2a #1. The symptom was an intermittent "popping" or "thumping" sound, which was difficult to spot because it occurred infrequently.
The faulty parts were R540 and R539 (same part on each channel - pretty interesting), which are base resistors on the tone control board (as suggested by clinic-audio - thanks!). I found them by patiently giving each resistor a gentle tap on the side with a non-conductive tuner alignment tool, which caused the fault to appear.
After pulling the resistors and replacing them, I did a small experiment. I hooked each resistor up to a multimeter set to ohms and used my soldering iron tip, on my Weller's lowest setting, to introduce some heat to the resistor. I didn't have to bring the tip too close to the resistor (this wasn't an excessive amount of heat) to get the thing to go to the 20M+ range, then completely open, going back to 1.2K once the soldering tip was removed from its proximity.
It turns out that a small amount of heat caused these resistors to go intermittently open, which can be assumed that in-circuit, it was the heat of their own dissipation. I'm going to measure the drop across them to figure out the current though them.

Other items of note:

I disassembled the stereo/mono switch and found its contacts were coated in verdigris. I cleaned that up. I'll check out the other switches as well.

The glue that was used to secure the capacitors, and is now dried up is conductive. I figured this out through pure fault finding curiosity. I found lengths of it going from capacitors to neighboring resistors and jumpers that measured <500K ohms. I think that cleaning it all up (gentle, controlled scraping with a plastic spudger) cleaned up some of the light noise, but this may be purely psychological - I have no test to back up that claim.

As it stands, the preamp sounds breathtaking through my Yamaha M-4 amplifier and Paradigm Studio Reference 100 v2 speakers. It is cleaner sounding than my Yamaha C-6 (which is also decent), but is more pleasing to the ear overall. I like it A LOT.

There is slight hum in the phono section that I have to figure out.

I've gone a little bonkers over trying to fix this unit. I'm very glad I've had success, and I appreciate you all for participating in this thread!

Adam
 
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Recap is next for me, I'm going to listen for a while so I can do a more educated A/B.

Loving mine, glad you're up and running.

Edit: I was wondering if the glue pile was conductive, another project.
 
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Yes, definitely take the time to remove all of the old Yamaha glue while you already have the amplifier open.

Adam, thanks for that follow up diagnostic on the faulty resistors. Quite interesting the way those have failed on so many units.

Milo63, those control bars with the U-joint can be disconnected and removed while you are doing electronic type work on the board. I took all of mine apart when I did my recap a few years ago.
 
This is kind kind of obvious, but be careful when chipping away the dried up glue. Little pieces of it can scatter and potentially Bridge a connection somewhere if they get caught between two leads. Just something to bear in mind. There might be a solvent that just dissolves the stuff, but I don't know about it. Acetone didn't seem to work too well, and I didn't want to monkey around with other solvents because I don't know what would cause damage to the circuit board.
 
I decided to make a Mouser Project List and found that I probably have the wrong resistor value on the SUBSONIC switch that's causing my problem.

If anyone wants it just ping me and I'll share. Worth every nickle you paid for it...
 
Thanks for putting the list together. I will have to do the same to my C2a eventually and having a parts list will ease the pain a little.
PM sent.
 
Yes, definitely take the time to remove all of the old Yamaha glue while you already have the amplifier open.

Adam, thanks for that follow up diagnostic on the faulty resistors. Quite interesting the way those have failed on so many units.

Milo63, those control bars with the U-joint can be disconnected and removed while you are doing electronic type work on the board. I took all of mine apart when I did my recap a few years ago.

Back into it, all caps except PHONO section pulled and ordered. I'm completely clueless on capacitors and the endless options on the Mouser site kill me. Fortunately I got a cheat sheet and *think* that all is well.

As to the Yamaglue, yuck, I think the guy building mine had to finish up a tube before quitting time. I've got some scraping to do.
A couple of bare wire jumpers are pretty corroded, a similar length of regular wire or safety wire (similar to what they use in the aircraft industry)? Same same?
 
Back into it, all caps except PHONO section pulled and ordered. I'm completely clueless on capacitors and the endless options on the Mouser site kill me. Fortunately I got a cheat sheet and *think* that all is well.

As to the Yamaglue, yuck, I think the guy building mine had to finish up a tube before quitting time. I've got some scraping to do.
A couple of bare wire jumpers are pretty corroded, a similar length of regular wire or safety wire (similar to what they use in the aircraft industry)? Same same?
There were several corroded jumpers in my C-2a as well. I replaced them with solid tinned copper wire of the same gauge. I found that a plastic spudger scraped the glue off well, but didn't scratch the circuit board. At first, I had to track down a couple glue chips that went flying when they were released, then started using a paper towel to block any flying debris.
The work was well worth it. This is such a nice sounding preamp.
 
This is such a nice sounding preamp.

Listening to some MJQ on vinyl this morning... blissfully. I had given up on vinyl cause I couldn’t find a decent phono pre. But the C2a is presenting a soundstage that is detailed, deep, wide, quiet & realistic. First time phono has beaten streaming since I had my bottlehead seduction.

I could live with the M2 & C2a & forget about tubes forever.
 
I made some tweaks to my Mouser resistor list this AM (removed the four 18 ohm as they're regular resistors and other errors).

Loving my C-2a, trying to paper-clip my way to an M2. Once that is done and I get Mr. So to rehab my ADS L1090 mid/tweets I should be set.

For $18.34 worth of resistors and a few (OK, many) hours of my time it was well worth the trouble.
 
Milo,
The Mouser BOM you shared with me didn't include 18ohm resistors, did you make the change before sharing?
So, just checking, you only replaced the tone control resistors, correct? Why not the main amp section? Just doing one board at a time?
 
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Milo,
The Mouser BOM you shared with me didn't include 18ohm resistors, did you make the change before sharing?
So, just checking, you only replaced the tone control resistors, correct? Why not the main amp section? Just doing one board at a time?

The 18 ohm (4) are not pankake resistors, just regular striped resistors.
Check the list on my Preampalooza thread.

Local expert (@clinic-audio) just recommends the tone board.
IMO there's probably only a couple of problematic resistors there but shotgunning is easy enough.
 
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All, please can you advise, I am now trying to replace all the resistors in my C-2A, and I see that there on the scheme R519-R520 (R521) are 33 Ohms, but on my board they are both 15 Ohms.
What would you do - place 33 Ohms there or 15?
 
All, please can you advise, I am now trying to replace all the resistors in my C-2A, and I see that there on the scheme R519-R520 (R521) are 33 Ohms, but on my board they are both 15 Ohms.
What would you do - place 33 Ohms there or 15?

The pros are going to say replace the same size you took out.
 
Great threat. The C-2a I am trying to repair had one more fault and it was not the resistors. Only on phono settings occasional loud pop was happening. I traced the issue at the big blue film caps (0.33uf)IMG_0033.jpg
 
One of the caps circled in the picture was shorted in my unit. So they are maybe not aging so well like one would expect from a film capacitor.
 
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