Yamaha CA-1010 no lights

Discussion in 'Yamaha' started by Mico, Apr 14, 2018.

  1. Mico

    Mico Active Member

    Messages:
    311
    Location:
    Montreal
    O.K now I understood. It was in that position already, and needle is as dead as stone on signal input.
    All set.
     

     

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  2. willyrover

    willyrover Super Member

    Messages:
    2,950
    Location:
    Hamilton
    The bent fork is likely the result of reinstalling the meter movement into its plastic cover without making sure the post (if it's there) in the adjustment screw lines up between the prongs of the fork.

    The catch...if the meters are glued in, the adjustment screw is inaccessible.

    Best you can do is straighten the fork. Set the zero position, set the adjustment screw from INSIDE the plastic housing and hope everything lines up when reassembled. Meter movements need to be handled with near watchmaker's precision, so be gentle.

    Not sure why these meters are glued in. My 1010 also have glued in meters but this is not mentioned in the service manual.
     
  3. Mico

    Mico Active Member

    Messages:
    311
    Location:
    Montreal
    Nothing like that here, pulling the meter assembly out and putting it back is very straight forward, nothing to align. Check the post #7 , it happened without me doing anything on the meters except
    shaking the environment.
     
  4. avionic

    avionic " Black Knights " Subscriber

    Messages:
    39,311
    Location:
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    Its much easier to unsolder the meter wires at the circuit board. And just leave the meters glued to the front panel.;)
     
  5. Mico

    Mico Active Member

    Messages:
    311
    Location:
    Montreal
    I agree, but that would still be on the front panel and got affected by knocking vibration. The ideal scenario, if I could predict this crap, would be to remove meter assembly BEFORE
    banging on the aluminum next to it. Is it possible to check for broken coil wires within assembly?
     
  6. avionic

    avionic " Black Knights " Subscriber

    Messages:
    39,311
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    No.. Disagree. Ideally checking for the fuse first.;) There was most likely nothing wrong with the OEM LED.
     
  7. Mico

    Mico Active Member

    Messages:
    311
    Location:
    Montreal
    That is what I was expecting as well but AFTER replacing the fuse, meter light were working fine but OEM LED was not . Only then I replaced it with new LED and created this mess.
    As Murphy`s law in my signature said...I wish I had not followed that rule.
     
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  8. avionic

    avionic " Black Knights " Subscriber

    Messages:
    39,311
    Location:
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    Did you find the links for the correct replacement pin hole LED ?
     
  9. avionic

    avionic " Black Knights " Subscriber

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    39,311
    Location:
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    I've never found a burnt out LED in that app. I have found physically broken LED's there. They still illuminated just the little pin was broken off and no longer shining out the front panel.Always a first for everything.
     

     

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  10. Mico

    Mico Active Member

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    311
    Location:
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    Damage has been done already, I double checked OEM LED now when it is out and guess what - bastard works! So you are right little pin was probably broken but now it is too late to turn the clock back.
    As I would still have to remove glued broken pin from the front panel hole to make it work, not sure I will touch this ever again. Broken meter is much bigger PITA and headache now.
    I took the whole meter assembly from the housing and examined it, every single tiny solder point was fine and it still did not work. When I put it back and connected to 1V input, for the first time it gave some signs of life.
    If I shake it a bit needle jumps and hits the wall, than looses the contact again and so on. Most likely the problem which I can not fix. I think I do not have any choice other than look for parts unit - someday, somewhere...
    Lesson learned, hard way.
     
    Last edited: Apr 15, 2018 at 7:22 PM
  11. Mr. Yamaha

    Mr. Yamaha Not so much Yamaha lately... Subscriber

    Messages:
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    Location:
    Amsterdam Area, The Netherlands
    I wonder, is there any way to adjust the meter's rest position with them glued in place? @willyrover might be right about the fork being bent by the (not accessible adjuster screw), because the fork look deformed. There may be a adjustment screw at the front of the meter assembly which is not accessible in this unit due to them being glued onto the faceplate. For instance, the B-2 has holes on the faceplate to access the adjustment screws.
     
  12. Mico

    Mico Active Member

    Messages:
    311
    Location:
    Montreal
    Thanks for the advice but accessing the meter was never a problem. The meter assembly goes easily out from the plastic shell which stays glued to the front plate. Adjuster just happens to have fork shape but that is irrelevant to needle position.
    I was able to move adjuster and set the needle in the right resting position - but meter is DEAD, it simply does not react to any input signal or voltage. I am sure wound coils got broken or displaced by knocking vibration and that was the end of the road for this one. I even pulled it further from the main housing but in no avail. Nothing visibly broken or looking twisted, all tiny solder joints looking fine...a real bummer. Just holding my fingers crossed that parts unit pops up somewhere - and this is not even my unit :-( .
     

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  13. avionic

    avionic " Black Knights " Subscriber

    Messages:
    39,311
    Location:
    Fort Dodge, Iowa
    CA-2010 has the same meters Yamaha P/N Ji000440..
     
  14. Mico

    Mico Active Member

    Messages:
    311
    Location:
    Montreal
    Thanks, how about CA-810 looks the same to me?
     
  15. Mr. Yamaha

    Mr. Yamaha Not so much Yamaha lately... Subscriber

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    Location:
    Amsterdam Area, The Netherlands
    They look a bit smaller (not sure) and the scale is different.
     
  16. Mico

    Mico Active Member

    Messages:
    311
    Location:
    Montreal
    I have just looked closely, yes scale on 1010 shows extra mV reading at the bottom, but meter size seems to be the same.
    Left meter`s front plate window cutoff starts and ends at the same points relative to the lettering above.
     

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  17. avionic

    avionic " Black Knights " Subscriber

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    39,311
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    Nope. Different part number..
     

     

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  18. Mr. Yamaha

    Mr. Yamaha Not so much Yamaha lately... Subscriber

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    I'm not sure whether you can compare it like that, because the faceplate of the 1010 is larger than the one of the 810 (435x160 mm VS. 461x170 mm).
     
  19. Mico

    Mico Active Member

    Messages:
    311
    Location:
    Montreal
    That is why I was using the Yamaha logo and lettering (which should be the same size) as a reference, will see if one pops up for sale. Improving my chances to get one ;).
     
  20. Mr. Yamaha

    Mr. Yamaha Not so much Yamaha lately... Subscriber

    Messages:
    758
    Location:
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    Assumption :naughty:
     

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