Yamaha CA-2010 vs M80

So pretty much the same as any other vintage amp, except that the vfets are harder to source, correct?

Power supply in proper condition, bias/offset within spec, anything else?

The only source for VFETS is to cannabalize them from a parts unit.
 
Replace E-caps,trimmer pots and biasing diodes.Replace insulators and refresh heatsink compound on the VFET's would be a good start. A complete alignment and voltage verification.Theres a little more than just bias and offset to be checked .At least on the B-1 anyway.I'm assuming this holds true for the B-2 as well.
Good general cleaning-dust will reduce the effective cooling of the heatsinks and attract moisture ie.corrosion ie. component failure.
 
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If purchasing the CA-2010 local, test --- besides the balance -- at the very least ALL MODE selector options: stereo, mono, etc. and Input Selector inputs: Aux, Tuner to make sure they are working. Or at least to know how much cleaning may be involved.

Check the rear connections to see if wiggling them causes drop outs. This may indicate bad solder joints. And it's not easy to access some of the boards inside. In my case, I have just been touching or wiggling them in the back whenever my right channel drops.

I believe the manual says don't be flipping B to A if over 30 watts when on, but so you don't give the seller a heart attack ask him to demo switch for you or turn off then select Class A. Until I get more ambitious or tired of that. It's very subtle and you have to be listening for that clearer sound. Myself I seldom switch to A just because of the heat issue, but it gets pretty warm with B too so you need good clearance in a cabinet and or no stacking on top.

After that, you should be very happy with a working CA-2010.
 
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