I just finished working on a CR-640 that was an "impulsive buy" at the SA thrift store. None of the lamps except power and stereo/local/dx worked so I ended up changing all 8 of them. The four twist-ins that lights up the dial was easy to change. The other four: three that illuminate meters and one in the dial pointer were soldered. However, it was not that difficult to change them. Unfortunately, you need to change all 4 of the meters/dial and all four twist-ins if only one is not working since they are connected in parallel. It was not that difficult to disassemble the CR-640 and get to the lamps.
The AK member dwojo sells these lamps; it was ca. $14 with shipping for the whole set.
I also ended up re-capping the 640's signal path, power supply and the phono stage. This greatly improved the sound. It was a pity that I needed to "thin the heard" so I parted with it. The tuner in this unit is extremely sensitive and the phono stage is very quiet.
I have a schematics if you need one and a user manual PDF.