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Yamaha Gun metal/black metalized finish - repair technique or restoration sources?

Discussion in 'Yamaha' started by plresults, Apr 11, 2018.

  1. plresults

    plresults AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    88
    Location:
    Milwaukee, WI
    Has anyone ever come across a method or source to repair or restore the late 70's/early 80s finish (M2/T2/C4 etc)? Thanks if you can share!
     

     

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  2. clinic-audio

    clinic-audio all on YAMAHA untill 1990

    Messages:
    2,142
    Location:
    France
    restore the finish ?
    What do you mean ?
     
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  3. avionic

    avionic " Black Knights " Subscriber

    Messages:
    42,768
    Location:
    Fort Dodge, Iowa
    Once the black anodized aluminum is scratched. Thats all she wrote. Or find a clean piece off of a parts unit. Best you can do is cover it up with something. I use Birchwood Casey flat black paint pen.I covers it up . But scratch is still there.
     
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  4. plresults

    plresults AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    88
    Location:
    Milwaukee, WI
    I mean rather than paint it, actually reproduce that metalized gun metal color that makes Yamaha look so cool. Not sure if plated, baked or painted on from factory. Surely someone someplace is/can reproduce that look.
     
  5. plresults

    plresults AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    88
    Location:
    Milwaukee, WI
    see above
     
  6. avionic

    avionic " Black Knights " Subscriber

    Messages:
    42,768
    Location:
    Fort Dodge, Iowa
    Front panels are anodized !!! Top,bottom and rear covers are painted.
     

     

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  7. rottalpha

    rottalpha Yamaholic Subscriber

    Messages:
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    Location:
    Middle of Crook County
    I have a couple of B-1s with side panels that are scratched. Will be looking at refinishing those at some point.
     
  8. Mr. Yamaha

    Mr. Yamaha Not so much Yamaha lately...

    Messages:
    897
    Location:
    Amsterdam Area, The Netherlands
    T-2 body is completely anodized, except the bottom ;-)
     
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  9. avionic

    avionic " Black Knights " Subscriber

    Messages:
    42,768
    Location:
    Fort Dodge, Iowa
    T-2 is extruded anodized aluminum like the C-2's.
     
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  10. Mr. Yamaha

    Mr. Yamaha Not so much Yamaha lately...

    Messages:
    897
    Location:
    Amsterdam Area, The Netherlands
    Correct.
     
  11. rottalpha

    rottalpha Yamaholic Subscriber

    Messages:
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    Location:
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    so are the side panels of B-1...

    All would have to be stripped and re-anodized.

    I believe @amr2 has gonne through the process with some parts for a PC-2002 ??
     
    Last edited: Apr 13, 2018
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  12. amr2

    amr2 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    514
    Yes. I have re-anodized some damaged parts and also new machined parts.
     
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  13. plresults

    plresults AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    88
    Location:
    Milwaukee, WI
    @amr2 : Would you mind sharing your process or the name of the firm who did the work for you? Thanks, S
     
  14. amr2

    amr2 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    514
    The old finish must be removed (some thickness is lost in the process) before the new anodized is applied again. The finish can be matte, gloss, brushed...
    The restoration of the silk-screen print is usually more problematic...
     
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  15. fernarias

    fernarias Super Member

    Messages:
    1,098
    Location:
    Merced, CA
    For the silk screening I've been looking at uv paint printers since they also print white. The problem is price, maybe for a business but not yet there for a hobbyist. These uv printers are used to print custom art on the backs of smart phones so the paint is very durable. Of course you can just teach yourself silk screening, which is more affordable(but requires more space).
     
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  16. gort69

    gort69 AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    1,092
    Location:
    Vancouver, WA
    It can certainly be redone. I just went through this process last month. Re-anodizing the part will not remove a scratch if it's more than about .001" deep -stripping the original anodizing will remove about that much base metal. The anodizing builds about half of that back. Reanodizing - especially if you dye it black - will make a very fine scratch virtually unnoticeable. As said - if the lettering was originally screen printed that will likely be a deal-breaker. I had two Kenwoods redone in black. These both have stamped lettering so refilling the lettering was a piece of cake. The cost for each was $60 at a local anodizing shop. The hard part is finding a shop that will take on small projects and do quality work. The process was to take it to them and have the original anodizing stripped. Take it back home and prepare the metal and polish to my liking, then return it for anodize/dye/seal. A bit more info here http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/kenwood-model-650-rescue.818794/

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    Last edited: Apr 30, 2018

     

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  17. rottalpha

    rottalpha Yamaholic Subscriber

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    looks fantastic. I dig the black version much more than the original
     
  18. Archguy

    Archguy Official Roiurama Factory Rep Subscriber

    Messages:
    1,976
    Location:
    Richmond VA
    Good God that's beautiful. Congrats on a spectacular result.
    Black is so sharp with contrasting silver controls IMHO.

    How is the white lettering a 'piece of cake' even if stamped?
    Okay, I went to your thread and found you did it by hand. Wow.

    All you amazing experts seem to be on the other coast!
     
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  19. gort69

    gort69 AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    1,092
    Location:
    Vancouver, WA
    Thanks for the kind words! I was actually floored by how well it turned out - looks even better in person.

    ...and don't picture me sitting there with a one-bristle brush carefully filling in each letter. I just daubed on some paint and quickly wiped off the excess with an acetone (polish remover) dampened paper towel. Worked in small sections and it took about two hours including breaks.Some spots I had to go over a couple times. The only 'tough' part was the big KENWOOD logo and the tree emblem, as the towel tended to scour out the fresh lacquer.
     
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  20. Bratwurst7s

    Bratwurst7s In The Frying Pan Subscriber

    Messages:
    4,105
    Location:
    Munich, Germany
    If you use a thin lint free rag stretched over a plastic block when wiping you will have less of a problem with the rag digging down into the lettering. Also toluene on the rag is what we used when doing this sort of blackfill in the etching business because it has less of a tendency to leach/run down into the paint. (Whitefill in this case :D)

    Very nice clean work. The Kenwood looks spectacular! :thumbsup:

    Cheers,
    James
     

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