Beau Geste
Italia
Take a look here . Maybe help :http://shopotam.ru/catalog/Consumer...ers_And_Preamps/yamaha/221888889510-item.html
Yamaha MX 1000
- Thread starter iliyanG
- Start date
iliyanG
New Member
I want to make sure there are no surprises when I have the final steps.
why buy these when you can buy straight from mouser or a different retailer?
Beau Geste
Italia
No sir, he is not my supplier. Absolutely. I found these photos and posted them thinking of helping our friend
iliyanG
New Member
Thank you.No sir, he is not my supplier. Absolutely. I found these photos and posted them thinking of helping our friend
so what is the verdict?
Is the amp stable now?
I thought so, you would not want to pay five times the cost of those capacitiors..
Beau Geste
Italia
It is not just the cost but also the quality. I do not trust unofficial dealers or companies that are not recognized as reliable.
iliyanG
New Member
Hello,
I still have not finished the circuit boards. The main board seems to be stable
I do not want to replace all electrolytic capacitors. These days I will try to order them. There is no time. Among other things some capacitors do not find them. For example, 820uf 110V. They have the same but 100V.
aha, those, yes. The 100V would work, but there is a replacement not too many people know about.....but those 820uf caps, you do not really need to worry about until you do a full recap. Is the small caps that you need to check.
Look at C511. Test it out of circuit and report back.
iliyanG
New Member
In principle, there are no inflated capacitors, only those on the end steps, with numbers C312 and C313.
I think those are all original, not fakes.It is not just the cost but also the quality. I do not trust unofficial dealers or companies that are not recognized as reliable.
This guy claims on other forums that he is some sort of a master recap genius. Probably buys the capacitors in bulk, packages them and re-sales them for about 5 times what the caps cost. In the past he was selling a bunch of BP (green Nichicon Muse) instead of polarized caps. That sometimes works, but it adds unnecessary ESR to the circuit) Now he changed his cap selection...still not supplying the correct replacement for the 820uf 110v caps, either because they are more expensive than what he offers (1000uf 100v) or he simply does not know what the correct replcacement is available.
I have seen his adds on ebay, out of Canada. No problem there, everyone needs to make money, but I am considering that AKers are able to make their own selection and buy at a major supplier, particularly when all caps values and sizes are readly available.
Last edited:
those are in the HCA section. Rated at 25v. I always replace with higher voltage.
FYI, not all caps buldge before they go bad. You really need to check C511.
iliyanG
New Member
Today it's hard to know someone is a deceiver. Unfortunately, one must first get burned. In such a world we live.
iliyanG
New Member
thanks for the advice, I'll check it out and comment.
Beau Geste
Italia
Surely, Sir Rottalpha. You teach me that when you replace it, the component must be totally reliable and must be the right one. I want to be sure and sure of what I put. I do not want thoughts because those are taken from other things.
The caps he is selling are genuine...based on the photos. I do not think he is a deceiver. He just tries to make a sale.
Is the buyer's choice to either pay or not pay the high asking price.
Hey rottalpha, this statement caught my eye because because I replaced a pair of polarized 100uf/10v caps in a late 60's Sherwood with BP Muses (amp section). Partly just to see what would happen. And nothing happened...sounds very good in fact.
Can you further expound on what you wrote, should I reconsider my experiment?
