Yamaha NS 690 qusetion....

Nashou66

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In this pic which drivers are original or are neither?

22448576_10214731002333816_1764476489914847001_n.jpg


Athanasios
 
Google shows the left speaker's woofer is correct.

But in pictures I have seen other places there are ridges in the woofer? maybe they made two different versions?

What was used in the NS 690 II 's?

The ones I am looking aat have the three jumpers on the back for tri amping.
 
They are NS 690 Mk1 - my Avitar. They have the woofer on the left in pic. No ridges and a ventilated dust cap
 
Well I talked to the seller on the phone and he is the original owner. I asked about the different woofer cones and he told me he had the one re-coned some years back as it got torn
durring a party. :D

He bought them new along with his friend who bought a pair of NS 1000's . His friend became a studio engineer and uses them to this day in his studio in california where he
now lives.
Needles to say I bought them for the extremely high price of $180 :D Only thing wrong is he said one tweeter is not working so it could be the crossover or tweeter itself.
No big deal for me as they are worth much more than what I paid. It was worth the hour and 15 minute drive there.

Athanasios
 
If they are Tri-amp capable they are NS- 690MkI and the dust cap should be vented.
Regards,
Jim
 
When a tweeter comes up for sale. I'll snag it. I too have a set of Mk1's. They belonged to my father. Sadly a shifted magnet has invoked a " Down for maint." sign on them. :biggrin:
 
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Shall I cut out a vent in the dust cover of the recon to prevent it from over heating?

Nashou

Unfortunately that woofer has been re-coned, not just the surrounds replaced, so the woofer will never match the stock one anyway. If it were me I would look for the proper woofer, or have it rebuilt with the proper cone which would probably be impossible. You could just leave the covers on and enjoy them once the tweeter issue is fixed.

I just like my gear correct,
Jim
 
Well i pulled the tweeters but did not de solder them. Both read about 4 ohms, they should be 8 ohms but I assume its due to them still being connected tot he trim pots and crossover.

So from other speaker re builds I have done they seem fine. So it might be somewhere else I need to look.

Do the backs come off with just the screws or are they also glued?

Athanasios
 
No need to take the backs off, you can access everything from the front by removing the drivers. You got a nice set of speakers, worthy a putting a few dollars in them. Be careful when desoldering them if and when you get to that point. As others have said, find a mk1 woofer to match the other. Rule out the tweeter issue part by part.

Good luck.
 
You only have to desolder one of the two leads on the "dead" tweeter to take it out of circuit for testing purposes. Testing in-circuit like you did, really means nothing. Just disconnect one lead from the potentially damaged tweeter and re-test.

As for the woofer issue, my OCD would prevent me from every being satisfied until they were both the same, even if they sound/perform the same as-is. I have quite a stable of JBLs with the white cone woofers, but in later years, the re-cone kits for those woofers (from JBL) were black cones--and I just can't live with that, so I hunt and pay the price for used "originals"--but that is just me.
 
Even if I find a magnet shifted woofer i can at least use the cone to make it match visually. But I am sure they probably sound close to the same as is, it is the original motor and voice coil
just a new cone.

Unless some one knows of a replacement cone that is closer in looks to the one they did?

Nashou
 
Ok Hooked them up and played a record and it seems that both Tweeters are not working.
Also The sound from all speakers sounded a bit lacking in clarity. I wiggled the coupler posts and it made
some changes in the sound so I think i need to clean those up.

So I decided to hook up the speaker wire to each couple individually and test for sound that way.
no sound from either tweeter when just hooked up to the coupler, So I ask when connected tot he coupler is the cross over in play for that driver?

Next I am going to de solder the tweeters and use my one LCR meter that outputs a 1Khz tone to see if I can get any sound from them.

then I'll pull the woofers to take a peak at the cross overs.

Nashou
 
Crossovers are easily removed from the rear panel. Its a plastic modular crossover assembly with the binding spring clips attached.
 
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