Yamaha ns-690ii recap

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I have a set of 690ii's in beautiful original condition however they don't deliver enough bass.
I am prepared to spend about $250US on capacitors if anybody can help me with a shopping list and where to buy. I would prefer capacitors that fit easily however I will consider anything.
Also does anybody know if they are a good match for my Yamaha ca-1000
 
Hello

I am not convinced that bass frequencies will come back after spend 250,00 usd

I read everywhere people making recap without serious reason , just to replace old components , even if they still good

If you want to know if your speakers are working the way they should , use a spectrum analyseur and you will know the answer immediately

It is a very good idea to ask the question before to spend money for nothing
 
I recapped mine and it helped with clarity, but not bass. These arent too bad for bass, put them against the wall for more bass?
 
I have a set of 690ii's in beautiful original condition however they don't deliver enough bass.
I am prepared to spend about $250US on capacitors if anybody can help me with a shopping list and where to buy. I would prefer capacitors that fit easily however I will consider anything.
Also does anybody know if they are a good match for my Yamaha ca-1000
If you were to look at the owner's manual, you would see that they fall off the lower end output fairly quickly below about 70hz. Caps won't fix this. Driver and cabinet design is your issue.
 
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Food for thought, save your recap bucks and add a sub instead.
Yamaha makes a nice sub for under your recap price,
Yamaha NS-SW100 10" 100 Watt Powered Subwoofer
Driver: 10" cone • Dynamic power: 100 watts (5 ohms) • Output power: 50 watts (100 Hz, 5 ohms, 10%THD) • Frequency response: 25 Hz – 180 Hz • Advanced YST: Yes • Twisted Flare Port: Yes • Dimensions: 13.88"W x 13.88"H x 16.13"D
 
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So would Yamaha just design these to be played loud. I wish I could change this as I love the look of them.
 
So would Yamaha just design these to be played loud. I wish I could change this as I love the look of them.

I had a pair - never thought they were too wimpy in bass, but it's true they were only designed to go so low.

I second the sub recommendation if you want more bass.

If you're still wanting to recap, just for peace of mind, you might use cheaper caps and see if any bass comes back. If it does, you could consider going higher end on the caps, but typically, higher end caps are lower uF values used for the tweeter and midrange drivers and the larger value caps used for the woofer are always electrolytic anyway due to the large values needed.
 
I had a pair - never thought they were too wimpy in bass, but it's true they were only designed to go so low.

I second the sub recommendation if you want more bass.

If you're still wanting to recap, just for peace of mind, you might use cheaper caps and see if any bass comes back. If it does, you could consider going higher end on the caps, but typically, higher end caps are lower uF values used for the tweeter and midrange drivers and the larger value caps used for the woofer are always electrolytic anyway due to the large values needed.
Inductors are used to roll off high frequency, caps to limit it's low frequency. You won't find caps being used on the woofer to limit it's low frequency. It won't help. Driver and tuned cabinet frequency is your limiting factor. The FS of driver limits you.
 
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Inductors are used to roll off high frequency, caps to limit it's low frequency. You won't find caps being used on the woofer to limit it's low frequency. It won't help. Driver and tuned cabinet frequency is your limiting factor. The FS of driver limits you.

Thanks. I'm always eager to learn and this is a good opportunity.

In the crossover schematic above, what is the 94uF (2 x 47uF in parallel) used for in the woofer circuit? I can see the signal doesn't go through it like it seems to for the mid (C2011) and tweet (C1011) caps, but it's in parallel to the driver.
 
what is the 94uF (2 x 47uF in parallel) used for in the woofer circuit?
Yeah, the layout does not appear to match the circuit diagram. Caps in that position (in parallel to the driver) are used to shunt unwanted
frequencies away from the driver by presenting a lower impedance path. I've posted elsewhere that such caps are not in the audio path
so you should not spend big $$$'s on boutique items. Better to spend the $'s on upgrading any series components. Think yamaha used
electorolytics in these shunt positions, ie, cheap and nasty BUT that's all that's required. Use budget PP for the shunt items.
 
Thanks. I'm always eager to learn and this is a good opportunity.

In the crossover schematic above, what is the 94uF (2 x 47uF in parallel) used for in the woofer circuit? I can see the signal doesn't go through it like it seems to for the mid (C2011) and tweet (C1011) caps, but it's in parallel to the driver.
If in series it would limit its frequency. In parallel it adds capacitance to the load. It's effect is on the inductor.
 
These were the caps I used on my 690II's. I used a 3.3uF and .22uF on my 690III's but since these were not available at hificollective, i decided to go with the 3.6uF instead. They ship worldwide.
jantzen.JPG
 
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as it stands, there are three parallel circuits, one for each speaker, and tuned circuits
(some combination of the 3 types) to allow certain frequencies and prevent others.
the middle circuit has high and low passes to reject higher (that then allows the tweeter
to work) and reject lower (that then allows the woofer parallel circuit to work woofer frequencies)

since there's ambiguity as to the posted parts/schematic, the woofer seems to be
limited by the driver and not the network (and of course, this completely changes
with the addition of pnly one single component).

again, as it stands, it's somewhat elegant (and inexpensive) but it allows substitutions in case
the drivers get blown as long as the driver/cabinet parameters are understood.

more bass? as others have mentioned a subwoofer is mandatory

but me being the sceptic, I'd recommend you have a friend, a meter, and a test tone
generator (and an lp/cd with lots of pink/white noise tracks). the friend moves, tilts, orients
the speakers to eliminate bass-type standing waves from lowering the bass output,

you may be 6 inches away from magnificent window-rattling, chest compressions worthy
of CPR, (or you might need them if its DSOTM), and one of my favorites is the opening
scenes from Top Gun.

enjoy the music
 
These are fantastic speakers, I have a set of minty 690 III's, and the recap really improved the upper end. Bass not so much.

Get a good sub, and let these do what they were intended to do (and they do very well) which is reproduce music faithfully, mostly free of color.
 
I haven't had mine long, but I don't find them lacking in bass. They don't "slam", but I don't listen to rap or hip-hop. They do Rush, Mozart, and Led Zeppelin just fine

Driving them with an ATI 1502 power amp.

$250 sounds like an awful lot to re-cap these speakers.
 
I haven't had mine long, but I don't find them lacking in bass. They don't "slam", but I don't listen to rap or hip-hop. They do Rush, Mozart, and Led Zeppelin just fine

Driving them with an ATI 1502 power amp.

$250 sounds like an awful lot to re-cap these speakers.

It's not a lot for good caps.

The first NS-690 pair I did about 8 years ago I tried using budget Solen caps and I was very disappointed by the resulting sound.

After a year or so, I sprung for Mundorf Supreme caps (MKP for the big bass cap) and redid the crossover again. The sound was noticeably clearer and the bass noticeably stronger and tighter. With this crossover, I found the sound of the NS-690 to be much closer to the NS-1000.
 
Yup - had a pair of these too - scroed them for $10NZD - always regretted selling them - as they sounded incredible.

But yea, they were way too bass-light for my tastes unfortunately.
 
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