Yamaha PC2002M restoration

This switch is for stereo/mono operation. it's in the signal path, and the internal contacts were a "little" dirty...

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I have finished DA/DB boards. I replaced the electrolitic caps and I cleaned the glue, like on the other boards.
I normally use single-turn cermet trimpots for bias adjust, but this time I decided to try a multiturn type

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I also changed the speakers relays. This Finder is a perfect replacement.

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Often Murphy's law applies to me....
"When N items are needed for a project, N-1 are available" :oops:

My favourite is when you finish adding everything to your cart, and just before you checkout, something goes out of stock.

I guess someone else really needed all 493 remaining Nichicon ES 22uF/50V.
 
Bad news. I sent some of the black aluminium pieces to re-anodize (heatsinks, top cover, botton cover, handles and face plate), and the company that has done the work has irreversibly damaged most of them. So after buying the amp, and spend money on the restoration, now I have nothing... Anyway I'm looking for a solution.
 
Bad news. I sent some of the black aluminium pieces to re-anodize (heatsinks, top cover, botton cover, handles and face plate), and the company that has done the work has irreversibly damaged most of them. So after buying the amp, and spend money on the restoration, now I have nothing... Anyway I'm looking for a solution.
:( tears
 
the company that has done the work has irreversibly damaged most of them.
What exactly did they do ? Have they ever done that kind of work for you before ? If the parts are really that mucked up. About the only thing you can do is find a parts unit.
 
What exactly did they do ? Have they ever done that kind of work for you before ? If the parts are really that mucked up. About the only thing you can do is find a parts unit.

No, they haven't worked for me before. I thought that they were professionals, and I trusted them. And they weren't. I think I can save the heatsinks, the front plate and the handles need to be machining (i don't know if machining is the correct word, sorry). I can try to recover the covers the best I can, or make new ones using laser or waterjet cutting. And anodize everything again. But this will cost more than find a parts unit. Using the parts as they are now isn’t an option, It’s not the finish I want.
 
Are the top and bottom cover on this model aluminium (aluminum for the US folk)?

You can only anodize aluminium (and with a special setup, titanium), steel/iron will just dissolve in the anodizing tank.

Sorry to hear about the failure, hopefully there is a way to finish the project.
 
Are the top and bottom cover on this model aluminium (aluminum for the US folk)?

Yes, the top and bottom covers are aluminium.

Do you have pics of the messed up parts? Im just curious to see.

Nashou

Sorry I don't have the parts in this moment, I sent them to another company to ask for a quote... I will upload some pics as soon as possible.
 
yes, machining is the right word for the process..


did they sand-blast the aluminum parts to take the paint away and actually use sand in stead of a softer alternative?

or was it a chemical process that ruined them? during anodizing?
 
They first used a chemical process, then they sanded the parts, and finally they anodize them. The finish was bad, with stains, so they repeated the whole process. The finish was bad again, and in addition the second sanding removed too much material, so aesthetically they are not acceptable. As a plus, the pieces were knocked during transportation. :no:
 
so their prep work or circulation during the anodyzing process, sucked

it sounds like a nightmare
 
What about electrostatic powder coating, if that can be done upon filler used for masking the knocked spots ?
 
What about electrostatic powder coating, if that can be done upon filler used for masking the knocked spots ?
The finish is not good, I've tried it before. Small bubbles emerge due to anodizing. Even if the parts are sanded.
 
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