Yammy remote cntl volume driving me insane

[beans]

I bought this RX-V995 in 2000 and for the last 2 years the motorized remote is intermittent, but only in THIS HOUSE for some reason. Took it back where I bought it for repair, then a week later I get a call from the guy working on it saying he can't find a damn thing wrong with it. So we tried everthing we could think of. Tried stackng magazines on top so it would heat up, tried moving it around to different positions to start with , then hitting volume on the remote. Worked perfectly every time. We know it's not my remote control...that was easy to rule out.

After six weeks of futzing with it, he finally said to come get it. If he couldn't make it fail, he couldn't fix it without just "throwing parts" at it. Then we found out that the volume control unit isn't available anymore anyway.

So I picked it up, knowing full well once I got it home and plugged it in it was going to go right back to what it was doing. I was right of course, but it took a few days.

Then I remembered that we have ratty AC line voltage out here, based on what I went thru with my computer. My UPS has a voltage readout that is changing constantly from 113V to 120V and all points in between.

Could a good line conditioner make it work? Anyone else had this issue???

 

[beans]

I called that same repairman and ran my theory by him, about using a line conditioner, but he said he doubted that it would make a difference. He also agreed that there is something going on. I just can't think of any other reason why it's screwy in this house but worked perfectly for him.

 

[willyrover]

I assume you have tried it in a different room?
Different circuit?
How about unplugging everything else in the room and on the same circuit.

Is it possible that you have another infrared light source in the room that is "blinding" the sensor?
Is the receiver opposite a window and picking up IR from outside?

If you have a digital camera, once it is dark, turn off the room lights and look around with the LCD viewfinder. IR light will show up as visible light on the viewfinder.

 

[beans]

I assume you have tried it in a different room?
Different circuit?
How about unplugging everything else in the room and on the same circuit.

Is it possible that you have another infrared light source in the room that is "blinding" the sensor?
Is the receiver opposite a window and picking up IR from outside?

If you have a digital camera, once it is dark, turn off the room lights and look around with the LCD viewfinder. IR light will show up as visible light on the viewfinder.

Thank you for the response!
I think we have ruled out everything having to do with the control circuitry. This model shows "VOLUME UP" and "VOLUME DOWN" when the remote volume is pushed, and I'm getting that indication every time, on the TV screen and the unit itself. I even tried it with another Yammy remote with no problem, which came as no surprise.

Any thoughts on line conditioners?

 

[avionic]

I have a Yamaha HTR-5560 that had similar issues with the remote...It all boiled down to ..operator error. On mine it just required keeping the remote buttons depressed for a longer period of time than I was initially doing.

 

[beans]

I have a Yamaha HTR-5560 that had similar issues with the remote...It all boiled down to ..operator error. On mine it just required keeping the remote buttons depressed for a longer period of time than I was initially doing.

Thanks!
I can hold the volume button from here to eternity...no joy. Actually, when I first powered up this morning, it worked. Right now, NOTHING....pisser.

 

[beans]

I also have an HTR series rvcr in the main room where used to have this one. That one is working just fine, but it's not as good as this one, which I now have set up in my study. I want to move this one back where I had it, at least until I can afford a new one with HDMI, but not until I figure this out. That room is where having remote volume control is really needed.

 

[avionic]

Is there any obstruction between the remote control and the recievers IR sensor..like glass ...leaded glass or crystal glass...really grasping at straws here...

 

[beans]

Is there any obstruction between the remote control and the recievers IR sensor..like glass ...leaded glass or crystal glass...really grasping at straws here...

I've ruled out everything having to do with the remote control circuitry (scroll back). I'm getting confirmation every time I push the button ("VOLUME UP" and "VOLUME DOWN" indication).
I really do appreciate it, though.:thmbsp:

 

[avionic]

Well I guess you will be getting your exercise then...

 

[beans]

Well I guess you will be getting your exercise then...

Well, it IS called Audio KARMA afterall.:tresbon:

And thank you for your service to the country. :thmbsp::thmbsp::thmbsp:

 

[Wireworm5]

I have similar problem with my Yamaha. The problem goes away when I use fully charged batteries ( I use re-chargeable ) in remote. Also pull out those little springy things in battery holder, so that it makes good contact with the batteries.

 

[bobrown14]

Your question regarding line conditioners is a good one. You can get a line conditioner/surge supressor with an LED voltage readout so you can see whats actually feeding your system. Some of the better conditioners will smooth out the line feed voltage. I use these types for all my vintage sound gear and you can hear a difference for the better. Most of the line conditioners also have a filter to filter out unwanted frequency sneaking into the line as well. I use quality rack mount units and you should be able to pick one up of epay for under $100. Do you have any adjustable light switches on the same circuit? Also another source of electronic noise is flouresent lighting. Like I said I would have a good audio quality filter/line surge suppressor at the very least on ANY gear of value. Ya never know when mother nature wants to treat your goodies to a good dose of shock and awe. Thats at least a good reason to get one or 2. I picked up a pair of triplite surge suppressor/filters for like $40 for both and rack mountable as well. There are others out there for pro gear and I have several others. These are not the surge supressor outlet things you buy at a hardware store for $10 so expect to pay a little more for the units designed for sound gear.

Can't hurt,

Bob

 

[Hepcat]

I have a Yamaha RXV-1200 and my original remote did the same thing. Very spotty and balky. I tried new batteries, cleaning battery terminals and springs, etc. Finally I ordered a new remote from Parts Store and the replacement works very well. Here's one for yours.

http://www.partstore.com/ModelSearc...RAV190&PartCategoryName=&MiniSites=&x=17&y=13

(I use a McIntosh 2-channel system for music and the Yamaha/Mirage for surround sound, movies, sports.. Totally seprate systems hooked together though tape outs so I can play either/or.)

 

[beans]

Your question regarding line conditioners is a good one. You can get a line conditioner/surge supressor with an LED voltage readout so you can see whats actually feeding your system. <snip>
I picked up a pair of triplite surge suppressor/filters for like $40 for both and rack mountable as well. There are others out there for pro gear and I have several others. These are not the surge supressor outlet things you buy at a hardware store for $10 so expect to pay a little more for the units designed for sound gear.

Can't hurt,

Bob

Thanks, Bob. I was just trying to think of everything I could to explain why the unit worked perfectly at the repair shop...what else could've been different? But when I ran that theory by the repairman, he was totally incredulous, saying that whatever spikes & swings are in the AC are all filtered out by the power supply. That does make sense, but he's assuming that it's a DC motor...or maybe he knows that for a fact...wish I'd asked him.
I did not know that a solution is maybe only $20 away! I would have tried it a long time ago, but on my budget I need to be careful not to spend good $$ on something useless to me. But I did know that my gear is at risk by plugging directly into the wall and I need to do something about it.

 

[Zeromancer]

My yammy remote's volume pad doesn't act like it used to.
I could hold up or down and the volume would go up or down really fast.
Now, I have to keep hitting up or down one push at a time. Kinda gets annoying.
All the other keys work just fine.
Yamaha RX-V1

 

[beans]

My yammy remote's volume pad doesn't act like it used to.
I could hold up or down and the volume would go up or down really fast.
Now, I have to keep hitting up or down one push at a time. Kinda gets annoying.
All the other keys work just fine.
Yamaha RX-V1

Yeah, it sucks, especially in the living room. Just when I get nice & comfy I decide I have to adjust the volume...well, so much for nice & comfy.

Are you using any kind of AC line filter? I'll see if I can find one I can afford and post the results.

 

[Zeromancer]

Yeah, it sucks, especially in the living room. Just when I get nice & comfy I decide I have to adjust the volume...well, so much for nice & comfy.

Are you using any kind of AC line filter? I'll see if I can find one I can afford and post the results.

Nope but the remote worked fine in this same room and this same setup earlier.
I haven't dropped the remote or anything. I guess the contacts up underneath the pad might need cleaning. I'll open it up and see what I can do.

 

[kretinus]

Just to throw this out there, compact flourescents can play with IR equipment. Worked at a motel where they replaced the TVs and installed compact flourescent lighting at the same time, some of the TVs would do all sorts of things without even using the remote, turn off, on, volume all over.

Had to put polaroid lenses over the windows.

I have the RX-V995 as well, haven't had any problems with it along those lines, although i use a universal remote

 

[beans]

Quick update:
I bought a Monster Power line conditioner with "Stage 1 filtering" and it has helped a lot. The knob has gotten stuck only twice since I started using it, but I still haven't become convinced to the point of going to all the trouble of patching the unit back into the HT I had it in. Once I do that I'll report back.

Thanks everyone for all the input!!