yet another veneer question

styler

styler

Super Member
sorry i havent posted pics yet, i'm too embarassed and have yet to perfect my technique. todays question is... i have several spots where the veneer separated (between matchbooked pieces) and even after rolling a slight gaps remains. should i fill this, and if so is there a specific wood filler to use, i'll finishing with Tung Oil.
lessons learned so far:
1. precut sizes to fit almost exactly, maybe an extra 1/8th inch on all sides
2. rolling pins work great for bubble removal
3. the waxpaper technique really works well (just make sure the middle piece overlaps on top of the end pieces) for easy pull out
4. file and sandpaper may (i stress MAY) work just as well as router, but be careful of file pitch.

thank all
tyler
 
Help!

hey folks, first stage of veneering went pretty well. but, i made a small mistake, with bad outcome. i put a very large piece down, 24.5 x 36 in, but there were 2 spots where the contact cement was just a little wet. thought that they stayed down, but today i have two bubbles both about 1.5 in in diameter... is there anyway to fix this beyond pulling this huge piece off?
 
more veneering lessons learned

1. rollers dont work that great, they have a tendancy to smear and cause uneven glue application.
2. foam brushes seem to work best, at least with the type of cement i'm using.
3. fixing bubble: got an 18 guage needle and 30cc syringe, poked smal pilot hole and injected the contact cement in. thus far seems to have worked. then ironed the veneer with an iron at about 225 degrees.
4. its very difficult to remove an already glued panel! use a wide chisel and pull up on the veneer while using pressure from the chisel. pray is doesnt damage the wood below. next sanding off contact cement is a PITA!

i have been hesitant to take pics, almost too embarassing :D
 
My own forays into veneering have also been a bit of a kluge. I let someone else do it nowadays... :D
 
Tyler, sounds like you have resolved many of the issues.

For the bookmatching, I'd masking tape the 2 pieces together prior to glue up. Too late for that now I guess. :worried:

If your gap is small you can make some sawdust out of some scrap veneer, and fill the gap with glue, them pack it with the sawdust. If its bigger, get some wood putty for the type of wood your using.
 
good suggestion

good call on the masking tape, that i need to do. the sheets of veneer i bought were not all oriented in the same grain direction. thus, i've had to cut pieces to fit (thankfully they threw in 3 large free pieces) and didnt think to use masking tape. great suggestion! thanks outlaw! :D
 
styler, when I had to edge-match veneer, for extra width, I had a small overlap, fastened with masking tape. I glued down most of the two sheets, and left the centre without glue. Then I used a razor knife to cut through both sheets, and removed the selvedge bits. When I glued down the seam allowances, the joint line was all but invisible. This was architectural, and I had the advantage of no close inspection, but I was pleased with the results.
 
Often one can get lifted spots to stick with heat alone. no problem adding glue,tho.
Good to pop a hole to let the air out anyways.
Removal is ugly, drywall/putty knives to open a crack to drip solvent into...
 
Why not use hundreds of years old methods?
Perforated veneer tape available everywhere woodworking supplies are. Cut short pieces across the seam to bring the leafs together then one piece along the entire length of the seam. As the tape dries, the paper shrinks and the leafs are drawn together. You can't iron or sand or clamp over masking tape.
Hasn't all this effort and crisis caused you to re-think using contact cement?
Is it really quicker? You can only do one of 12 sides/6 hours with PPR but look at the results:

site1200.jpg


Only repairs I made were on edges where too much glue squeezed out, an un-avoidable hazard of using clamps 'n cauls.
The pink spot on the right side of the horn is a large chip ouit of the veneer after assembly. Oops. Fill with Bondo (that's what's pink) then paint the color and grain in with 'water soluble oil paint' you get at the Art Supply. I have a 6 color set by Winsor & Newton.
BTW, the glue and sawdust fix is also "old school" but the recipe is white glue 1/1 with cool water then dust to make thick oatmeal and apply. Now you use masking tape to closely cover the surrounding area where the glue shouldn't go.
The Internet is the proverbial 2-edged sword. All the info you need is at your fingertips along with an equal or greater amount of bad advice.

site1177.jpg
 
veneer

thats some beautiful work you've done there. your advice is well appreciated. i actually got the bubbles out with pressure alone, so no biggie there. most of the other lessons learned were mostly of the kind "it would have been easier this way." per your earlier advice i attempted to find the glue you suggested and could not find a local supplier and i wanted to get started right away. one thing i've learned for sure is everyone has their own method. mine are actually coming along well despite my one major pitfall (having to pull up a panel). and with that piece the veneer tape i used was partially the problem. it came loose just a tad and when i placed the sheet i got a slight overlap on the seam. all in all, the advice provided here has given me great direction. thanks to all. they should be finished this weekend and will post pics!
 
BillEpstein said:
SNIP
You can't iron or sand or clamp over masking tape.
SNIP
Click to expand...


Maybe I need to clarify. The masking tape goes on the outside, and is removed once the glue sets up.

It's gone when you get to the ironing (?) or sanding. Why can't you clamp over the tape? :scratch2:
 
masking tape

when would one put the tape on? before the sheet is glued and just prior to bonding, or would you tape it then put the glue on the other side? i've found that cement usually causes curling of the veneer and just not sure that the tape would endure it. even the veneer tape separates when the panel begins to curl...
 
I'd butt them together and tape it prior to glue application. Probably a 2 person job to get them tight. There are different grade sof Masking tape. DON'T use the blue stuff, it has less sticky to it.
 
Too Cool!

That is one or two big projects. Looks great. :thmbsp: What are you going to finish them with?

Murray
 
finish

spray paint.








LOL, actually with light tung oil, probably 4-5 coats, use steel wool in between. damn, this was a big first project! burl in the photos didnt come out as nice as it really is and obviously i've still got several pieces to place and a lot of sanding to do! next i will go over everything with 220 grit paper. someday they will find themselves inside and not in the store room.
:D
 
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