Zilch's AK Design Collaborative - Econowave Speaker

I have the parts for an eWave deluxe and plan on building a custom enclosure in lieu of the 'ol PE trap cab that Zilch used to test & design.

Schumacher 1.1.JPG

Without the restriction of having to use the PE trap cab, I'm free to build something that can pull more bass from the 3012LF. Awhile back I had access to BB6P and ran a few numbers. BB6P suggests tuning 3012LFs to ~33 Hz in 4 cuft with a rectangular vent 4.516" square (or equivalent area) with a duct length of 8.19", which give F3 = 59.5 Hz and F6 = 33 Hz.

Question for the thread is do I need to design my box around a 17" wide front baffle like the trap cab or does that not matter as much as I have been lead to believe?
 
I have the parts for an eWave deluxe and plan on building a custom enclosure in lieu of the 'ol PE trap cab that Zilch used to test & design.

View attachment 870316

Without the restriction of having to use the PE trap cab, I'm free to build something that can pull more bass from the 3012LF. Awhile back I had access to BB6P and ran a few numbers. BB6P suggests tuning 3012LFs to ~33 Hz in 4 cuft with a rectangular vent 4.516" square (or equivalent area) with a duct length of 8.19", which give F3 = 59.5 Hz and F6 = 33 Hz.

Question for the thread is do I need to design my box around a 17" wide front baffle like the trap cab or does that not matter as much as I have been lead to believe?

A 4 cu' box is larger than the Vas of that driver ( generally, a good recipe for ripping apart your woofer under full drive conditions ) .

IOW, that size box gives an incredibly under-damped woofer/box alignment .

Eminence themselves don't offer a recommended box size larger than 2.5 cu' ( in their Box Recommendations Sheet .

It's dangerous territory to think you know better!

I think that you need to download WinISD Pro and play around with different enclosure sizes so that you can educate your-self about the trade-offs inherent in box-design.

Regarding your original question;
- In your case I don't think it'll matter much because the design you are drawing from was never fully-baked ( or tweaked ).
- To the best of my knowledge, Zilch ( in that thread ) only built one of each model to see if the crossover acted as the PCD prediction suggested it would.
- ie ; To my way of thinking, that thread was mostly about crossover design, not about producing finalized designs for the masses .
- Yes a narrower baffle will produce less bass ( due to baffle size ) and needs the crossover tweaked to account for the different BSC figure ( that means a larger Inductor Coil in the woofer section of the network ).
- That tweaking is not something that someone can do for you ( as a prediction ) / you'll need to determine this for yourself .

:)
 
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I believe Zilch imparted to the audio community the knowledge and practices to figure it out for ourselves. Yes there are proven systems through out this legendary thread. Pick one and follow the recipe. When you deviate from the recipe you are cooking to you own tastes. There are many followers of this thread that will help you. The practices and tools mentioned are for you to use as you choose. The journey and discovery along the way is part of the fun. Later days and better ways. Good luck on you adventure.
 
Thank you all so much for your help. I already ordered components for first scheme. And I have one question- in crossover Lowpass filter 1,2 kHz and Highpass filter 3kHz. How it works?
 

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Cross overs have slopes. The dip between 1.2khz and 3khz is not a bad thing. The "shout" some speakers have is in that area.
 
Thank you all so much for your help. I already ordered components for first scheme. And I have one question- in crossover Lowpass filter 1,2 kHz and Highpass filter 3kHz. How it works?

The ( above ) underscored values are only for the electrical filters.

They're not the final result.

The actual acoustic crossover point is more like 1800hz ( when the real-world response of both drivers gets married to the electrical filters ) ..

:)
 
I have a problem-I can not adjust the vent.
1 picture without tube
2 picture with max length
3 picture with mid length
What can I do in my situation?
 

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I have a problem-I can not adjust the vent.
1 picture without tube
2 picture with max length
3 picture with mid length
What can I do in my situation?

Actually, you can still adjust the length of the vent by doing your adjustments on the outside of the box.

A tuned port also works outside the box ( just like a beer-bottle neck/mouth when blown across ).

Just ( temporarily ) have the tube on the outside of the vent.

Tune for best in room frequency response, by varying the length of the vent.

When you are happy with the results, put the ( found length of ) vent on the inside of the box ( the error doing it this way is only a couple of hz ).

:)
 
When you are happy with the results, put the ( found length of ) vent on the inside of the box ( the error doing it this way is only a couple of hz ).

:)
Yes, I understand this all, but I am not satisfied with the result. Without tube is best result, but it's not good too and too far to be perfect.
 
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peaks in the graph should be the same. Or I'm wrong?

Here's some ancient Altec guidance ;

page14.jpg

page15.jpg


Your DATs traces would indicate that you are trying to use too small a port ( according to Altec wisdom ).

Go to a bigger diameter tube .

On the other hand, if you can live with the bass produced from the higher box tuning ( seen in your first pic ), it's not that bad a ( visual ) compromise (IMO).

What does the "in-room" bass response actually sound like ? ( that's the actual priority here )

:)
 
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Here's some ancient Altec guidance ;

Your DATs traces would indicate that you are trying to use too small a port ( according to Altec wisdom ).

Go to a bigger diameter tube .

On the other hand, if you can live with the bass produced from the higher box tuning ( seen in your first pic ), it's not that bad a ( visual ) compromise (IMO).

What does the "in-room" bass response actually sound like ? ( that's the actual priority here )

:)
Many thanks for useful files. As I understand it, I have a small diameter port. Now I have a 117mm. I will try to establish the 143 or 159 mm
 
Starting a new project. Just picked up a pair of Altec Madrid cabs, now looking for woofers and that will dictate the size horn I use.
 
here are the cabs I picked up. I am trying to decide whether to use the Dayton compression driver, Pyle horn, and Dayton woofer (that is the version) or the SEOS horn, DNA compression driver, and Acoustic Elegance TD12M woofer. That version is twice the cost of the Dayton version but, I think sound much better.


00c0c_2vby6IMyFCS_1200x900.jpg

01717_fkVFRsoym1_1200x900.jpg
 
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