Discussion in 'Speakers' started by Zilch, Feb 23, 2008.
That is the fun part.
http://xlrtechs.com/dbkeele.com/PDF/Keele (1981-05 AES Preprint) - Monitor Loudspeaker Systems.pdf
Can someone please post the link to the generic schematic for woofers with greater than 95dB efficiency? The link from the summary on page1 does not work. Thanks!
The original sealed dual 10" woofers in the Norman Labs 10's are not to my liking, so I plan to modify them to accept a single 12" pro driver in a ported configuration. I modeled a few and decided on the Celestion TF1225. F3 looks to be about 50Hz and the price is right at $85. I'll post pictures and results when I get one built. Since I will be starting with a new baffle, is there a recommended spacing on the waveguide to the top of the enclosure and then the woofer to the waveguide? This enclosure is quite tall.
For PA? Get the woofer up as close as you can to the horn (has to do with vertical axis). When I build these, I plan that there is enough material between drivers after the holes are cut (generally an inch) to brace the front baffle at that spot, as that appears to be the weakest part of the cabinet.
Not for PA - it's for HiFi. The baffle will be 1.25" thick as I plan to attach the new 1/2" one over top the existing 3/4" one. It will bring it out flush with the sides and be stiffer as well.
Yes I am redundant.
Also, the height of the mounted drivers on the baffle in the final product should be planned to place the mouth of the horn at ear level when seated, normally. Keeping the woofer as close to the horn as possible is a best practice for this type speaker, as has been mentioned.
Horn - ear height
Woofer - snugged up to it.
That's what I'll do. Thanks!
What about port location?
I finished my 7th eWave iteration last year and planning my 8th version now using Polk Monitor 5 cabs, woofers, and passives.
Just got to find a horn that fits. Ill post dimensions later today.
Port location is ALMOST open to your imagination in terms of what side to put it on. I would avoid the rear if you need to snug the speakers up to the wall. Also, you want to keep the end of the port about one diameter away from the opposite cabinet wall. If you can't do that, use a port with an elbow in it.
this will be my first build and will be using the standard version with kd trap box with the dayton dc300 and d220ti drivers. this will be for hifi use.
guys, i need your help on the following
1. how big the port should be and where to locate it?
3. they say have the woofer and waveguide as close as possible, does this apply to the standard version? on Zilchs pics of this version the woofers and waveguides are not that closr. if so, whats the recommended spacing between woofer and waveguide?
3. how much stuffing to use and what did you use?
regards to all. looking forward to get thus started.
Great thread folks . I'm in the process of gathering EV drivers t35s T8 comp. Drivers along with the closets 8"mid bass and 18" to build a set of EV Georgian 400s .(clones) I owned a pair when in was a teenager which got destroyed in a friends flooded basement . Ill be watching this thread and eaergly awaiting updates on your project
I'm in Australia and super keen to build an Econo using the B&C DE250 but getting these delivered will run to almost $500! Not very Econo then.
I'm hoping to see if anyone has tried the very nice looking, made in Florida USA, MB Acoustics DE250-P-8 clone:
MB ACOUSTICS DE250-P-8 1" Polyimide Horn Driver 8 Ohm 700W
I tried emailing TMC in Florida for detailed specs and a frequency plot but I get no reply.
Any help appreciated.
There are a few clones of the DE250 and I think some have been mentioned in this thread. The PRV Audio D290p and Dayton Audio D250p come to mind, so you could do a search for those as well and see what comes up. I'm in the UK so have the same kind of problems as you sourcing stuff at 'econo' prices.
Some clones are discussed here:
If it is way more cost effective, have Parts Express send me the drivers and I'll send them to you.
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