Zone 2 subwoofer woes/ custom speaker selector?

[gjposner]

I have recently added a pair of Spica TC-50's to my living room which sit atop my everyday speakers (heavily modded CV LS-12's which includes new tweeters, crossover matrix, and custom wound VC on woofer for impedance matching). Previously I had been moving the speaker wire, but having just finished a re-finishing a Bell-O stand that needed love, I figured it was time to make this right. The Receiver is an onkyo Tx-NR 809

Without doing much research, I figured, sure, Zone 2 should work. While Zone 2 does function, it does not output to either of my subs (a pair of BIC F-12's needed for the large space). So my first thought to solve this was to use the pre-outs and while it does work, there is no volume control, so that option is out. The Spicas do need at least one of the BIC's as they lack quite a bit in the low end.

A suggestion came in to run the speaker cables through the BIC's and while I could do that for a single spica and a single sub, the second spica is 10ft from the first sub and almost 35 from the second (the second BIC sits between 2 couches in an L shape).

I then was suggested to take a look at speaker selectors and really, the electronics geek in me went WTF?!?!? Protection circuits use a big ass resistor as a way of detecting over current.. It was also suggested that I look into one with impedance matching, but I am not sure what that means electronically. I am concerned it may add unwanted noise into the system.

If it can be something simple, like a switch box, I would prefer to build it myself and realistically any switchbox that I buy I will be modifying to have Bananas and match the rack that I use currently. The Spicas measure a high 20.6 ohms resting with the CV's at 9.6 ohms. Even if they were ran simultaneously the amp would not care as I believe the 809 is good down to 2 ohms so part of me wonders if I need the protection or the impedance matching or if I can build my own box with nice toggles and such?

Does anyone have a wiring diagram for switch boxes? Ones with and without the fancy protection and impedance matching? Trying to figure out what to do. Any help would be great!

TL;DR: trying to find the best way to use my subs with a zone 2 speaker set, be it through fancy wiring or a custom switchbox. Help?

 

[whoaru99]

So you just want to switch between one pair of speakers or the other?

 

[gjposner]

So you just want to switch between one pair of speakers or the other?

Basically. Was wanting to use Zone 2 for that but it seems a switch box is in order :/ Any ideas on if protection is ACTUALLY needed or if I can just wire some DPDT or DPST switches and do it that way? I can make a proposed wiring diagram if desired.

 

[whoaru99]

If all you want to do is select one pair or the other then a couple DPDT or one 4PDT switch is all you need.

No protection necessary since the receiver sees only one pair at a time in either position of the switch(es).

 

[gjposner]

If all you want to do is select one pair or the other then a couple DPDT or one 4PDT switch is all you need.

No protection necessary since the receiver sees only one pair at a time in either position of the switch(es).

The dual load would only come into account if it was a pair of DPDT switches and both were activated but even then, with the Spicas apparently being 20 ohms each, the overall load would still be WAY within the specs of the 809. It is certified for 4 ohms no problem.

 

[whoaru99]

The way I wire them only one pair can be active at a time. One DPDT switch = switching for just one channel and either one speaker or the other, but not both at same time.

So, to switch both channels means two DPDT or one 4PDT, but either way its still just one pair or the other at any given time, not both.

 

[gjposner]

The way I wire them only one pair can be active at a time. One DPDT switch = switching for just one channel and either one speaker or the other, but not both at same time.

So, to switch both channels means two DPDT or one 4PDT, but either way its still just one pair or the other at any given time, not both.

I figured with a pair of DPDT you could theoretically have both active at the same time. With a 4PDT there is only one. I figure the DPDT would be the presumed option as it would technically allow for running of other stuff easily for testing or other purposes. Allows for easy expansion as well (not that I would want to expand, just have the option to do so ha ha).

 

[whoaru99]

DPDT can be found in just about any store that sells electrical stuff. 4PDT are not as common. I normally present two DPDT or one 4PDT as a matter of course simply because of that.

If you're 100% sure your amp outputs are common ground then just one DPDT could be used to switch between two pair, but it will still be either or as typically connected for an A/B switch.

 

[gjposner]

DPDT can be found in just about any store that sells electrical stuff. 4PDT are not as common. I normally present two DPDT or one 4PDT as a matter of course simply because of that.

If you're 100% sure your amp outputs are common ground then just one DPDT could be used to switch between two pair, but it will still be either or as typically connected for an A/B switch.

I have switches for days, and normally order from McMaster or Digikey sometimes I may have in stock as well which I do in this case. I know the amp has a common ground but I prefer separate switches.