Thatch_Ear
Addicted Member
Phillips 926A is a good one too. Oh, there seems to be one for sale!!
Shameless plug.
Shameless plug.
Best CD player used for under $400
- Thread starter robert
- Start date
Best CD under $400
I don't know what I was thinking, putting up all that info about that cheap little Toshiba 3950. That's not what you need! You gotta have a big, heavy, Rolls-Roycelike, Stereophile Class-A Sony X77ES CD player, complete with silver and Teflon wiring in the output stage and mil-spec paper and oil coupling caps, bypassed with Lab-grade 3% tolerance canned polystyrene and foil caps. This baby does everything great, has been carefully serviced, aligned and lubricated and even has a remote. It has fixed and variable RCA outs and balanced outs, as well as optical and coax digital outs. It is even more splendid with the Enlightened Audio Design DSP-7000 and solid core silver with Teflon digital interconnect.
Now you're saying to yourself, "this rig cost over $3500 new". Well, of course you're right, and it was well worth it, too. But you can have the Sony for the ridiculously low price of $300, the EAD for the pornographically low price of $200, and , if you act immediately, the digital interconnect will be added AT NO EXTRA CHARGE. That's right, all capital letters! If you buy only the Sony you will be getting a wonderful work of fine audio design and craftmanship. If you get the EAD you will have an exquisite 1997 Stereophile Class B DAC that will sound truly musical and enjoyable with any inexpensive transport like the Toshiba SD3950, for $60.
I'm selling the good-stuff because I was borne before 1960 and am old and deaf enought to think the Toshiba sounds "good enough" since I modded it. Just contrarian reverse snobbery from a burned out old hippie love child draft dodger. You should never suspect for a moment that the Toshiba with a new op amp and $30 worth of caps could ever hope to lick the ground that the High-Priced-Spread sits on.
Therefore, I'm willing to offer you a one month money-back guarantee of satisfaction, should you do the painfully obvious thing and take advantage of a misguided old deaf coot.
John Day
dayfamily6@earthlink.net
(512)452-6689
I don't know what I was thinking, putting up all that info about that cheap little Toshiba 3950. That's not what you need! You gotta have a big, heavy, Rolls-Roycelike, Stereophile Class-A Sony X77ES CD player, complete with silver and Teflon wiring in the output stage and mil-spec paper and oil coupling caps, bypassed with Lab-grade 3% tolerance canned polystyrene and foil caps. This baby does everything great, has been carefully serviced, aligned and lubricated and even has a remote. It has fixed and variable RCA outs and balanced outs, as well as optical and coax digital outs. It is even more splendid with the Enlightened Audio Design DSP-7000 and solid core silver with Teflon digital interconnect.
Now you're saying to yourself, "this rig cost over $3500 new". Well, of course you're right, and it was well worth it, too. But you can have the Sony for the ridiculously low price of $300, the EAD for the pornographically low price of $200, and , if you act immediately, the digital interconnect will be added AT NO EXTRA CHARGE. That's right, all capital letters! If you buy only the Sony you will be getting a wonderful work of fine audio design and craftmanship. If you get the EAD you will have an exquisite 1997 Stereophile Class B DAC that will sound truly musical and enjoyable with any inexpensive transport like the Toshiba SD3950, for $60.
I'm selling the good-stuff because I was borne before 1960 and am old and deaf enought to think the Toshiba sounds "good enough" since I modded it. Just contrarian reverse snobbery from a burned out old hippie love child draft dodger. You should never suspect for a moment that the Toshiba with a new op amp and $30 worth of caps could ever hope to lick the ground that the High-Priced-Spread sits on.
Therefore, I'm willing to offer you a one month money-back guarantee of satisfaction, should you do the painfully obvious thing and take advantage of a misguided old deaf coot.
John Day
dayfamily6@earthlink.net
(512)452-6689
Thatch_Ear
Addicted Member
John,
Does this mean you don't want to buy the Phillips?
David
Does this mean you don't want to buy the Phillips?
David
Thatch_Ear
Addicted Member
Well that is too bad, I could have brought down to Josh's next month. I'll probably drag down a 5.1 Toshiba and pop the hood so you can see if the cappage is the same for the outputs. You liked my antique Toshiba player better that SACDPs that were at Josh's back when you dragged those 604s in.
I actually like the Phillips player for SACD but for analog DVD playback the Toshiba has it whipped and I just don't want 2 machines in the living room. Less wires and one less remote and I just have not been buying enough SACDs to make it worthwhile.
Got any extra missle grade coax laying around?
I actually like the Phillips player for SACD but for analog DVD playback the Toshiba has it whipped and I just don't want 2 machines in the living room. Less wires and one less remote and I just have not been buying enough SACDs to make it worthwhile.
Got any extra missle grade coax laying around?
Best CD under $400
David,
Well, obviously I'm not out of audio as a hobby, and I've waxed just a bit facetious of late...
If I'm not sharing too much, Mark Lyon, who owns Audio Systems here in town wants me to make him a Toshiba 3950 for his secret personal use at home. Obviously this is the kind of thing that he can't publicise too much. Lee Roitberg has traced out the circuit of the 3950, which has helped us to revise the mods somewhat. I've done the power supply like the Vinnie mods, but the audio is different. I didn't use Black Gates and we've tried different op amps. Lee scored some Analog Devices op amps that are great and I can't even remember what the number is. I'll try to get enough magnification to read the part. I'm not sure that's possible at home. I really botched up the board around the op amp until another friend let me use his rework station. I had to do some repairs to bypass the traces I lifted. That took awhile. This has had a bit of a learning curve. One of the best things you can do is put a good quality 1-10 uF bypass cap from pin 4 (-) to pin 8 (+) of the op amp, even if you haven't subbed it out. The reason is that the op amp has no cap across it's power supply, just a cheap, muddy voltage regulator. A good cap helps a lot. Use 12 V or more and tiny little wires to the pins, 26 ga. or so. They are fragile and can be twisted off the traces by the leverage of "big" wire when you bump it. (I know this for certain).
I have some RG223-U wire which is pretty nice. You can get this and RG400, which I think is slightly better, from Skycraft surplus in Orlando Fla. (near NASA). The aircraft grade wire is a little spottier in availability and not all the employees know what is what. I helped a friend at a local repair shop get some wire from them a month ago and the weekend guy was guessing most of the time. Hey, it was cheap enough not to be a big problem, but only half the stuff was what he wanted. The numbered wire is always certain.
www.skycraftsurplus.com (407)628-5634 Call during the week and ask for "the wire guy". You might request 20 -26 ga, "aircraft type single conductor shielded silver and teflon, the smooth stuff (highest grade extruded) if you have it"
John
David,
Well, obviously I'm not out of audio as a hobby, and I've waxed just a bit facetious of late...
If I'm not sharing too much, Mark Lyon, who owns Audio Systems here in town wants me to make him a Toshiba 3950 for his secret personal use at home. Obviously this is the kind of thing that he can't publicise too much. Lee Roitberg has traced out the circuit of the 3950, which has helped us to revise the mods somewhat. I've done the power supply like the Vinnie mods, but the audio is different. I didn't use Black Gates and we've tried different op amps. Lee scored some Analog Devices op amps that are great and I can't even remember what the number is. I'll try to get enough magnification to read the part. I'm not sure that's possible at home. I really botched up the board around the op amp until another friend let me use his rework station. I had to do some repairs to bypass the traces I lifted. That took awhile. This has had a bit of a learning curve. One of the best things you can do is put a good quality 1-10 uF bypass cap from pin 4 (-) to pin 8 (+) of the op amp, even if you haven't subbed it out. The reason is that the op amp has no cap across it's power supply, just a cheap, muddy voltage regulator. A good cap helps a lot. Use 12 V or more and tiny little wires to the pins, 26 ga. or so. They are fragile and can be twisted off the traces by the leverage of "big" wire when you bump it. (I know this for certain).
I have some RG223-U wire which is pretty nice. You can get this and RG400, which I think is slightly better, from Skycraft surplus in Orlando Fla. (near NASA). The aircraft grade wire is a little spottier in availability and not all the employees know what is what. I helped a friend at a local repair shop get some wire from them a month ago and the weekend guy was guessing most of the time. Hey, it was cheap enough not to be a big problem, but only half the stuff was what he wanted. The numbered wire is always certain.
www.skycraftsurplus.com (407)628-5634 Call during the week and ask for "the wire guy". You might request 20 -26 ga, "aircraft type single conductor shielded silver and teflon, the smooth stuff (highest grade extruded) if you have it"
John
AD 8066 op amp for Toshiba 3950
David,
I COULD read the numbers with magnification! The AD 8066 (AR version) is $3.50 or so from Analog Devices, with $12 shipping, so it's expensive to get one. I tried to get samples,but their computer was smart enought to know I wasn't a real company and wouldn't comply. Hey, I ordered 6. That should last for awhile...
John
David,
I COULD read the numbers with magnification! The AD 8066 (AR version) is $3.50 or so from Analog Devices, with $12 shipping, so it's expensive to get one. I tried to get samples,but their computer was smart enought to know I wasn't a real company and wouldn't comply. Hey, I ordered 6. That should last for awhile...
John
Thatch_Ear
Addicted Member
John,
I am real excited about listening to what you and Lee end up with and like I said I will bring my Toshiba down and take some notes if you will point with your finger and tell me a few easy to do things to improve it that I in my limited capacity (mental, tools and parts) can do.
So far when I have tried any extensive mods on a CDP I have destroyed it and while it is difficult monetarily the mentall abuse from my lovely Julia is much worse. (I destroyed her washer one time when I was going to "By God I'll fix it myself! How hard can it be?" repair it)
Thanks for the link, see you soon and I hope you have gotten some milage out of those Heils. I miss the things. JBL TLs with Heils is something I have thought about for a long time.
David
I am real excited about listening to what you and Lee end up with and like I said I will bring my Toshiba down and take some notes if you will point with your finger and tell me a few easy to do things to improve it that I in my limited capacity (mental, tools and parts) can do.
So far when I have tried any extensive mods on a CDP I have destroyed it and while it is difficult monetarily the mentall abuse from my lovely Julia is much worse. (I destroyed her washer one time when I was going to "By God I'll fix it myself! How hard can it be?" repair it)
Thanks for the link, see you soon and I hope you have gotten some milage out of those Heils. I miss the things. JBL TLs with Heils is something I have thought about for a long time.
David
John let me know if you would ever like for me to immpliment any mods for you. Or if you ever want to make the trip down here, we can run over to my office where the mods can be done very cleanly using anything from Hacco irons to a Hacco hot air rework station. Also on the bench is an incredible Leico microscope on a boom used for surface mount work. Helps these old eyes see regular stuff too. Gotcha covered from through hole to fine pitch TQFP packages.
Toshiba 3950 and more...
David,
That's where I've fallen down a bit... I got one cabinet built and stuffed/tuned for the JBL 123A woofers I have from some L-100 speakers. However, the line is too long and narrow to tune-up properly for the original D123, being about 6dB down by 50 Hz at best, with that driver under any stuffing condition. That and the digital project, as well as cutting all the wood for three pair of those little towers we heard at the last meet have put me off from getting the second box built yet, though the wood is cut. There's been Easter, working some on weekends, the Capitol 10,000, my birthday, sore throat, the litany goes on and on....
There is one free mod to improve the Toshiba 3950. Invert your speaker wires. That's right, this bad little puppy inverts absolute phase unless you do the Swenson mod and take the (inverting) op amp out of circuit.
I think I'm done modding the Toshiba. The last thing I wanted to try sounded worse all 3 ways I did it.
Here are the critical parts and what they do:
C903 and 905 supply the DAC and should be high audio quality caps of the same type and value, rated at least 10V to be safe. Differences here are highly audible. Bypassing sounds worse. That was the last mod I tried.
C910 and 912 couple the DAC to the op amp. High quality audio types of 6.3V will do fine. The input to the op amp is at +5V so the + goes toward the op amp (as marked on board). I have not experimented with smaller value caps here. Stock is 100uF. I'm using polarized types.
C902 is the trickster here. At least I think that is the cap # that sits between C910 and 912. I've covered the # with oversized caps. It couples BOTH + inputs of the op amp to AC ground and needs to be a high quality audio type as well. I would stay with the 100uF size here, though 6.3V polarized should be fine.
C918 and 920 are the output coupling caps. The factory actually uses nonpolarized caps here. The output sits about 5V above ground potential and swings some voltage, so the 6.3V non polarized Black Gates are pushing the envelope. I'm using 10uF @ 50V nonpolarized caps myself, but I think polarized would be ok with + toward the op amp.
Pull out the little yellow plastic caps by the outputs and test for continuity to the output from the through holes. The side that goes to the hot of the RCA plug on each side can be where you sink the output side of your output coupling cap. That gets rid of the muting transistors from your circuit and an unnecessary shunt cap on your output.
The best op amp so far (and I'm DONE on this count) is the AD 8066 (AR). Bypass pin 8 (+) to pin 4 (-) with a high quality audio cap of 10 uF @ 12 or more Volts. I wouldn't go bigger for fear of stressing the voltage regulator at turn on. The voltage regulator is all that feeds the stock op amp and it is wimpy. Even the stock op amp should sound better bypassed.
All the other stuff I did is the Vinnie mods as layed out. Lee is dubious about how much good they are, but they are cheap and not too difficult and I did them. We really haven't done an exact A-B comparison of otherwise identical players, and that isn't going to happen at this point.
John
David,
That's where I've fallen down a bit... I got one cabinet built and stuffed/tuned for the JBL 123A woofers I have from some L-100 speakers. However, the line is too long and narrow to tune-up properly for the original D123, being about 6dB down by 50 Hz at best, with that driver under any stuffing condition. That and the digital project, as well as cutting all the wood for three pair of those little towers we heard at the last meet have put me off from getting the second box built yet, though the wood is cut. There's been Easter, working some on weekends, the Capitol 10,000, my birthday, sore throat, the litany goes on and on....
There is one free mod to improve the Toshiba 3950. Invert your speaker wires. That's right, this bad little puppy inverts absolute phase unless you do the Swenson mod and take the (inverting) op amp out of circuit.
I think I'm done modding the Toshiba. The last thing I wanted to try sounded worse all 3 ways I did it.
Here are the critical parts and what they do:
C903 and 905 supply the DAC and should be high audio quality caps of the same type and value, rated at least 10V to be safe. Differences here are highly audible. Bypassing sounds worse. That was the last mod I tried.
C910 and 912 couple the DAC to the op amp. High quality audio types of 6.3V will do fine. The input to the op amp is at +5V so the + goes toward the op amp (as marked on board). I have not experimented with smaller value caps here. Stock is 100uF. I'm using polarized types.
C902 is the trickster here. At least I think that is the cap # that sits between C910 and 912. I've covered the # with oversized caps. It couples BOTH + inputs of the op amp to AC ground and needs to be a high quality audio type as well. I would stay with the 100uF size here, though 6.3V polarized should be fine.
C918 and 920 are the output coupling caps. The factory actually uses nonpolarized caps here. The output sits about 5V above ground potential and swings some voltage, so the 6.3V non polarized Black Gates are pushing the envelope. I'm using 10uF @ 50V nonpolarized caps myself, but I think polarized would be ok with + toward the op amp.
Pull out the little yellow plastic caps by the outputs and test for continuity to the output from the through holes. The side that goes to the hot of the RCA plug on each side can be where you sink the output side of your output coupling cap. That gets rid of the muting transistors from your circuit and an unnecessary shunt cap on your output.
The best op amp so far (and I'm DONE on this count) is the AD 8066 (AR). Bypass pin 8 (+) to pin 4 (-) with a high quality audio cap of 10 uF @ 12 or more Volts. I wouldn't go bigger for fear of stressing the voltage regulator at turn on. The voltage regulator is all that feeds the stock op amp and it is wimpy. Even the stock op amp should sound better bypassed.
All the other stuff I did is the Vinnie mods as layed out. Lee is dubious about how much good they are, but they are cheap and not too difficult and I did them. We really haven't done an exact A-B comparison of otherwise identical players, and that isn't going to happen at this point.
John
Rework station access for Tosh 3950 mods
Luther,
A kind offer, but things have now worked out OK for me. See my last post summarizing the audio stage mods to the Toshiba 3950. You might just do it for YOU. They'll probably send you AD8066 samples if you ask them from work.
John
Luther,
A kind offer, but things have now worked out OK for me. See my last post summarizing the audio stage mods to the Toshiba 3950. You might just do it for YOU. They'll probably send you AD8066 samples if you ask them from work.
John
Toshiba 3950 mod evolution
Swenson mod revisited:
The problem we had with the Swenson mod was the very low output level, less than 1% of stock. Hope you have a hot pre-amp!
We suspected that the attenuation was on the DAC chip, which has that capability. However, disabling the clock on the serial control port did nothing. Therefore, Cedric Meza helped by using magnification and extensive expertise to trace out the circuit. The 5.2K resistors were IDd and jumpered. We couldn't find a leg to ground for DC, and we couldn't figure how the series resistor alone could attenuate so much, but bypassing that brings the Swenson mod output up to about 3dB below the stock or Vinnie modded player.
These resistors are approximately the size of an immature mouse's testicle. Teeny tiny wire to cover the surface connection pads after you float them off will work (try a strand of CAT 5 plenum). Test for continuity. The last two pins on the DAC facing you toward the right go to the (-) of caps 910 and 912. These resistors are just to the left of caps 910 and 912 as you view the board in place from the front and above. If you put your probe on those last 2 pins together you should initially get 5.2K to the (-) pins (toward you) of caps 910 and 912, then O after bypassing.
You can pull out caps 910, 912, 918, 920 and 902. Replace the DAC supply caps, 903 and 905, with 12V to 16V @ 10 to 100 uF, of the highest possible quality. These directly supply the DAC, and make a big effect on the sound. Pull out the little yellow film caps by the RCA outputs. These shunt to ground. The inner lead of the left one goes to the hot pin of the left channel output and the inner lead of the right one goes to the right channel hot output lead. Those holes are useful. Place your output caps in the holes left by the negative pins of C910 and 912 and these central holes from the output shunt caps. Left to left and right to right. I'd go with 10V or greater rating for safety, but you can live dangerously with 6.3V Black Gates. 10 uF is a good value. More is good. 1uF is probably OK if you have a high input impedance pre-amp. Non polar is best. You can try the 47 uF NP output caps in the stock player if you want to be really cheap. Fair enough. You'll need a jumper wire for short lead caps.
You can also float off the 6 pin dual transistor by the outputs. It shunts the output to ground when there is no signal. If it were to shunt to ground when there is signal your DAC would be playing into an AC short, unlikely to happen as I understand the machine, but may as well get rid of it. Nothing bad happens.
The outcome of all this is the BEST sounding player yet, and it doesn't reverse absolute phase. Output is 3dB down from stock; no big deal. Use good interconnects. Shorter is better, but mine are 2 meters and I lose a little in the bass.
The rhythm, punch and delicate fine detail are superfluous, or superlative, or something like that. A vale has been lifted. There's more "there-there". Am I ready to rite for Stereofile?
Next? I hear Swenson has reprogrammed the DAC for slow rolloff, which sounds better. The stock is fast rolloff. This is a very fancy mod. It requires actual expertise, not just a devil-may-care attitude, good hands and good eyes. I'll need help again.
John Day
Swenson mod revisited:
The problem we had with the Swenson mod was the very low output level, less than 1% of stock. Hope you have a hot pre-amp!
We suspected that the attenuation was on the DAC chip, which has that capability. However, disabling the clock on the serial control port did nothing. Therefore, Cedric Meza helped by using magnification and extensive expertise to trace out the circuit. The 5.2K resistors were IDd and jumpered. We couldn't find a leg to ground for DC, and we couldn't figure how the series resistor alone could attenuate so much, but bypassing that brings the Swenson mod output up to about 3dB below the stock or Vinnie modded player.
These resistors are approximately the size of an immature mouse's testicle. Teeny tiny wire to cover the surface connection pads after you float them off will work (try a strand of CAT 5 plenum). Test for continuity. The last two pins on the DAC facing you toward the right go to the (-) of caps 910 and 912. These resistors are just to the left of caps 910 and 912 as you view the board in place from the front and above. If you put your probe on those last 2 pins together you should initially get 5.2K to the (-) pins (toward you) of caps 910 and 912, then O after bypassing.
You can pull out caps 910, 912, 918, 920 and 902. Replace the DAC supply caps, 903 and 905, with 12V to 16V @ 10 to 100 uF, of the highest possible quality. These directly supply the DAC, and make a big effect on the sound. Pull out the little yellow film caps by the RCA outputs. These shunt to ground. The inner lead of the left one goes to the hot pin of the left channel output and the inner lead of the right one goes to the right channel hot output lead. Those holes are useful. Place your output caps in the holes left by the negative pins of C910 and 912 and these central holes from the output shunt caps. Left to left and right to right. I'd go with 10V or greater rating for safety, but you can live dangerously with 6.3V Black Gates. 10 uF is a good value. More is good. 1uF is probably OK if you have a high input impedance pre-amp. Non polar is best. You can try the 47 uF NP output caps in the stock player if you want to be really cheap. Fair enough. You'll need a jumper wire for short lead caps.
You can also float off the 6 pin dual transistor by the outputs. It shunts the output to ground when there is no signal. If it were to shunt to ground when there is signal your DAC would be playing into an AC short, unlikely to happen as I understand the machine, but may as well get rid of it. Nothing bad happens.
The outcome of all this is the BEST sounding player yet, and it doesn't reverse absolute phase. Output is 3dB down from stock; no big deal. Use good interconnects. Shorter is better, but mine are 2 meters and I lose a little in the bass.
The rhythm, punch and delicate fine detail are superfluous, or superlative, or something like that. A vale has been lifted. There's more "there-there". Am I ready to rite for Stereofile?
Next? I hear Swenson has reprogrammed the DAC for slow rolloff, which sounds better. The stock is fast rolloff. This is a very fancy mod. It requires actual expertise, not just a devil-may-care attitude, good hands and good eyes. I'll need help again.
John Day
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BeerCan
Tá mé ar meisce.
I know this is a major thread resurection but I wanted to post my experience with this player.
I decided that I was a little bored and I needed a project. I needed a new cd player so the 2 met and here I am.
I pretty much did the vinnie mod to the power supply and the John Day mod to the digital board, including removing the little resistors, 6 prong transistors and shunting caps.
I used oscons for the dac (68uf) and a cerifine to replace the clock cap (100uf). I used auricap 3uf for the coupling caps (in case).
I have 2 of these units so I was able to a/b them directly. I also got my family and friends involved. First test was after about 2 hrs on unit. Listened to 3 songs on each. 6/6 people picked the unmodified unit as sounding better. I agreed the modified player sounded awfull. Bass was totaly lacking and overall sound was trash. I was disappointed but chalked it up to experience and I still had fun overall.
Now I am a skeptic when it comes to "break in" don't know why but I am. Still I decided to "break in" the player. I played it for 4 days straight with all different cd's.
Well yesterday I had the same people plus 1 over to do the same test with the same songs. The difference was astounding. It was no contest between the 2. Modified cd player was noticable better. Bass was much nicer and the trumpets were almost alive. So I guess I am a beleiver in "breakin" now.
Does this make this sound as good as $3000 dollar cdp's ? I have no idea as I have no way to a/b them. However I feel it took a decent cheap cd player and made it better. I had fun in the process and I am happy overall.
I think I will mod the 2nd one with hovilands and see if it makes a difference.
BTW they had no idea what player they were listening too. I just had them pick player 1 or player 2.
I decided that I was a little bored and I needed a project. I needed a new cd player so the 2 met and here I am.
I pretty much did the vinnie mod to the power supply and the John Day mod to the digital board, including removing the little resistors, 6 prong transistors and shunting caps.
I used oscons for the dac (68uf) and a cerifine to replace the clock cap (100uf). I used auricap 3uf for the coupling caps (in case).
I have 2 of these units so I was able to a/b them directly. I also got my family and friends involved. First test was after about 2 hrs on unit. Listened to 3 songs on each. 6/6 people picked the unmodified unit as sounding better. I agreed the modified player sounded awfull. Bass was totaly lacking and overall sound was trash. I was disappointed but chalked it up to experience and I still had fun overall.
Now I am a skeptic when it comes to "break in" don't know why but I am. Still I decided to "break in" the player. I played it for 4 days straight with all different cd's.
Well yesterday I had the same people plus 1 over to do the same test with the same songs. The difference was astounding. It was no contest between the 2. Modified cd player was noticable better. Bass was much nicer and the trumpets were almost alive. So I guess I am a beleiver in "breakin" now.
Does this make this sound as good as $3000 dollar cdp's ? I have no idea as I have no way to a/b them. However I feel it took a decent cheap cd player and made it better. I had fun in the process and I am happy overall.
I think I will mod the 2nd one with hovilands and see if it makes a difference.
BTW they had no idea what player they were listening too. I just had them pick player 1 or player 2.
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trueview
NoAgendaShow.com
try an early model Sony Playstation1... :thmbsp:
model scph-1001 has the rca jacks on rear.
I've recently bought two of them on ebay for less than $20 on ebay.
many are claiming it sounds better than a lot of megabuck players.
take some time and read this thread over at the lansing site:
http://audioheritage.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=5015
model scph-1001 has the rca jacks on rear.
I've recently bought two of them on ebay for less than $20 on ebay.
many are claiming it sounds better than a lot of megabuck players.
take some time and read this thread over at the lansing site:
http://audioheritage.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=5015
Thatch_Ear
Addicted Member
Interesting!
true-- i went straight over to that forum and read it, then went to ebay and picked up a ps1 for $19 BIN. i only hope i got the right one, which i think i did. after i did so, i got to wondering if you have to have a friggin TV to find tracks and shit?
shrinkboy
shrinkboy
trueview
NoAgendaShow.com
just a few moments to learn the functions on the game controller is all that is required...never had mine hooked to a monitor...
btw...did you check out those German links of fully modded ps1's
looks sweet in that acrylic case :yes:
also it is important to find the 1001 model...its the only one with the rca jacks
in ebay search box type "scph 1001" and also check little box that says search title and description...there is usually 5 to 10 units at any given time.
btw...did you check out those German links of fully modded ps1's
looks sweet in that acrylic case :yes:
also it is important to find the 1001 model...its the only one with the rca jacks
in ebay search box type "scph 1001" and also check little box that says search title and description...there is usually 5 to 10 units at any given time.
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i and i t'inking got da right one, mon. here: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8192154960
shrinkby
shrinkby
missing_eric
Active Member
ok ok ,when I read this I knew I had a ps1 around the house somewhere. Well its the one with the rca jacks, so I just hooked it up and put abbey road in. Sounds good to me. Ran it through my aux on my mac c-28 and the Ar3a's sounded great. Put me back in 1969. Not sure if all the hype is true, but it is worth a try and for the few bucks that the ps-1 is going on ebay, it's worth it. Now watch this get out and the darn things will be going for BIG money, in the future!!! Very interesting indeed.
