clydeselsor
Lunatic Member
This is a conversion from digital color using a B/W Styler plug-in for photoshop. The plug-in is supposed to mimick different brands and types of b/w film as well as different darkroom techniques. Pretty cool!
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B&W photography
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Wigwam Jones
Caesar non supra grammati
The photos look lovely, congrats!
For what it may be worth, I shoot a lot of digital, and I've played with some of those filters, but I also shoot B&W film, process it myself in my kitchen sink (no darkroom needed) and scan the results. No need to emulate film - when you use film.
Not saying either is better, just that there is another way - the original way.
Next we'll have a 'tube sound' button on our home theater systems.
For what it may be worth, I shoot a lot of digital, and I've played with some of those filters, but I also shoot B&W film, process it myself in my kitchen sink (no darkroom needed) and scan the results. No need to emulate film - when you use film.
Not saying either is better, just that there is another way - the original way.
Next we'll have a 'tube sound' button on our home theater systems.
pioneervato
Lunatic Member
Interesting how we seem to be coming full circle much like the way we listen to music. Digital photography has changed the world of photography as we used to know it but with the right plug-ins on your computer you can emulate different types of film and their characteristics to make it look like it was shot on film. Hmmm.
What next? Plug-ins for emulating popular types of photographic paper and their toning characteristics? How about different film and film developer combos? Wow.
BTW- Very nice images.
What next? Plug-ins for emulating popular types of photographic paper and their toning characteristics? How about different film and film developer combos? Wow.
BTW- Very nice images.
Wigwam Jones
Caesar non supra grammati
Already done. There are filters for split-tone, quad-tone, gold and platinum washes, etc.
IMHO, none of them really look like the originals, but the effect can still be pleasing.
pioneervato
Lunatic Member
I should of known.
However, I like the looks of the silver halides exposed by light and the latent image brought out by my favorite paper developer, Dektol. Working in the darkroom is still a lot of fun and rewarding for me. Though, digital sure has got the convenience factor working for it.
onepixel
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There is a lot of fiddling around in film photography and processing, as you know. Same thing with digital. With the newer hi-end 7, 8 and even 12 color cartridge printers and quality archival papers you would be surprised at the results.
I love B&W photography, but I love digital because it's viewable results are more instantaneous and less guestimating on my part.
clydeselsor
Lunatic Member
The plug-in is called B/W Styler and is available at http://www.thepluginsite.com/products/photowiz/index.htm
Wigwam Jones
Caesar non supra grammati
I scan my negs. Doesn't take very long. But to each their own, of course.
clydeselsor
Lunatic Member
I have a traditional darkroom that I have loved working in for the last 30 years. Digital is just a new facet to this hobby for me.
clydeselsor
Lunatic Member
Thanks for the compliments everyone!!
ozmoid
Lunatic Member
Clyde, the photos are beautiful!
Now, for those of you who shoot digital but like a more traditional "look" for your black and white:
B&W film interprets colors differently than color film, the color spectrum is not uniformly rendered. If you have a later version of photoshop, find the Channel Mixer, set it to monochrome, and enter the following values for the RGB settings: 70, 30, 10. The output will be a decent approximation of Tri-x's color response. WAY better than a straight conversion to B&W using the mode menu. Tweak away! The numbers are just a starting point... you can really get into some fine contrast-matching by playing around.
Now, for those of you who shoot digital but like a more traditional "look" for your black and white:
B&W film interprets colors differently than color film, the color spectrum is not uniformly rendered. If you have a later version of photoshop, find the Channel Mixer, set it to monochrome, and enter the following values for the RGB settings: 70, 30, 10. The output will be a decent approximation of Tri-x's color response. WAY better than a straight conversion to B&W using the mode menu. Tweak away! The numbers are just a starting point... you can really get into some fine contrast-matching by playing around.
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clydeselsor
Lunatic Member
Thank you Oz, I have played with the color channels in PS and it can really produce some nice results!
What scanner do you use?
Wigwam Jones
Caesar non supra grammati
For my 35mm film, I use a dedicated film scanner - the Konica Minolta Scan Dual IV (no longer sold, unfortunately). For all other formats (old 110 film from my military days, 120 medium format, etc), I have an Epson 4490 flat bed, which has an overhead light source and Digital ICE (scratch remover) for scanning negs and transparencies.
I use Vuescan software to scan with and The GIMP to process images. I run Linux, so I have no other options.
Snade
humble AK member
Oz, Great tip on the 70-30-10.
Just tried it on some family shots I did last week. Looks cool.
Many thanks. Snade
Snade
humble AK member
Great idea. I've got a Canon scanner that will scan negs and slides.
How do you develop the B&W film ? I did this many moons ago. Just load the film in a dark closet into a cannister and then add the chemicals ? Or are there better ways today ?
My Nikon 35mm has a better lens than my digital camera and I like to shoot black and white.
Thanks. Snade
salred
Rest In Peace
For developing film without a true darkroom -- and it can be tough to get a room dark enough for developing Tri-X -- I splurged on an early variant of the Calumet "Changing Room": http://www.calumetphoto.com/item/RM1000/
Plenty of room inside for developing tank,etc. Just put everything inside, zip it up, stick your arms in through the sleeves and load away. When the cap is on the tank open everything up and develop away at your favorite sink.
Only problem so far is that *invariably* when I have one out of two reels loaded and I'm working on #2 my nose begins to itch something fierce...
I'm now shooting a pretty low volume, so for a developer I use Kodak HC-110 diluted straight from the syrup -- keeps a long, long time: http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/ and Photographers Formulary TF-4 archival fixer has a pretty good shelf life: http://tinyurl.com/2anyhk.
Happy Snaps,
Steve A.
PS: My avatar is a shot from 1971: My friend is enjoying Hamm's Draft in Quart Bottles as we cruise around in somebody's mid-60's something-or-other. Tri-x; HC-110 Dilution B (we go back a long way...)
Plenty of room inside for developing tank,etc. Just put everything inside, zip it up, stick your arms in through the sleeves and load away. When the cap is on the tank open everything up and develop away at your favorite sink.
Only problem so far is that *invariably* when I have one out of two reels loaded and I'm working on #2 my nose begins to itch something fierce...
I'm now shooting a pretty low volume, so for a developer I use Kodak HC-110 diluted straight from the syrup -- keeps a long, long time: http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/ and Photographers Formulary TF-4 archival fixer has a pretty good shelf life: http://tinyurl.com/2anyhk.
Happy Snaps,
Steve A.
PS: My avatar is a shot from 1971: My friend is enjoying Hamm's Draft in Quart Bottles as we cruise around in somebody's mid-60's something-or-other. Tri-x; HC-110 Dilution B (we go back a long way...)
I looked up the film scanner, and it's listed as 3200 x 3200. Like you, I have a flatbed scanner, with a little "adapter" kit of a holder and light. I find that awkward to use, and the results are not what I expected from a neg. Specs for it are Optical : 2400 dpi Hardware : 2400 x 4800 dpi, so I suppose just on the numbers, the film scanner is better.
Is there any other advantage that you see to using a dedicated film scanner as opposed to the flatbed?
