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#46
11-08-2009, 06:59 PM
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edit-here it is, SOUND GUARD. an excerpt- "But that's just part of the story. Did you know Ball made a phonograph record care product line for vinyl LPs in the 1970s called Sound Guard? It grew out of internal research into properties of dry lubricants for use in aerospace applications. We sold Sound Guard to Audio Technica Kabushki Kaisha of Tokyo, Japan, in 1980, but vinyl fans continue to contact us asking if we still make it or know where it can be purchased." from approx '90 til '02 i had no hi fi at all; it was all in storage while spent my time (and $$) chasing the 'bottle'.
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My a/v gear slideshow Last edited by jayk; 11-08-2009 at 07:07 PM. 
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#47
11-08-2009, 07:30 PM
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Seriously, just go and buy a pack of Q-tips. That is what you should be using to clean your heads. Last was never, ever designed to be used on tape heads. Last might have even bonded to the surface your heads like Wax, leaving an invisible film which is pushing your tapes away from your heads, and thus causing the loss of highs. But this is just speculation, as I don't know what the actual effects of applying last on tape heads would be. Regarding the switch. It is internal. You have to competely remove the case to get to it. Likewise with the Bias and EQ pots. Unfortunately, unless you have an oscillioscope, a signal generator, a precision audio millivoltmeter, a copy of the service manual, and a basic understanding of biasing procedures, the odds are strongly that you will only make matters much worse by twisting randomly at any of the dosens of pots located inside of the case. The X-1000R is one of the more complicated machines to allign because you have bias and record EQ adjusments for each channel, forward and backwards, at both speeds. That makes for a lot of pots.
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Last edited by goldear; 11-08-2009 at 07:38 PM.
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#50
11-08-2009, 09:25 PM
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Considering professional repair at this point.....starting to get frustrated...Vintage TX would probably be the best person. How should I contact him.? Email or post on the forum?
I want this thing right, and with everything in my head right now, I'm getting frustrated. I'm considering sending it out for new heads, belt, pinch rollers, and anything else it needs as far as hard parts go. Then when its right mechanically, it can be adjusted while it's in the shop including brakes, and all the bias and gain adjustments. I was trying to hold off till next year....just getting back to work after 10 month's of fighting a blood disease and I'm waaay short on bucks, disability don't pay squat. First time in my life I cant afford toilet paper..(almost), so I was hoping for a quick fix. Anyone have a rough estimate on how much coin I need to do the above... I guess what you'd call an overhaul? At least I'll know how much I need to save. It kills me to have a beautiful paperweight just sitting there teasing me. It had a motor (right one facing front) replaced a few years back along with a belt and cleaning because of a speed issue. Also, the tape would droop between the pinchrollers and not touch the heads. Tonight, I noticed with the head covers off, the right capstan shaft (facing the unit from the front) moves in and out almost 3/16 of an inch. Left one facing front is normal, about 1/16 inch.. Right side capstan cant be right. The left one is not that loose. But the numbnutz local tech (only one who would touch it, and came highly rated for repairing vintage equipment), scratched and broke my headstock cover and cracked the underplate as well. Then tried to lie about it. He probably left out a washer or spacer on the motor, or flywheel spacer, when doing the belt. I have seen how one is replaced in our hints and tips section, and how that can reek havoc if that washer that "cocks" flywheel isn't installed. Thanks, and sorry for the rant. I just want my tunes man..  Phil Last edited by Vintage TX; 11-08-2009 at 10:32 PM. Reason: Against the rules VT
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#52
11-08-2009, 09:56 PM
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and macman- not sure if v tx is doing anymore repair work. best bet is to send him a pm and ask.
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My a/v gear slideshow Last edited by jayk; 11-08-2009 at 09:59 PM.
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#53
11-08-2009, 10:05 PM
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I don't think that he has time for repair work anymore. But he is not the only person on this forum who is fully capable of servicing your machine.
There are a number of us who will do repair work. I'd be surprised if there isn't somebody in your neck of the woods who can do the work. But if not, Fred Longworth would be a superb choice, if your willing to take the chance of shipping the unit about 6000 miles.
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#55
11-08-2009, 11:14 PM
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Sorry about the Teac problem, after reading this whole thread about your dilemma, a few things I can point out for you.
# Head wear = the far right head (playback) seems to have too much wear IMO, the flat spot are very wide and in the first series of pictures I can see a groove on the lower part, also the same on the L-playback head. Can you take a closer picture with a tripod maybe in a angle showing the lower wear ? You have two options in that case, Teac still sell new heads or have them re-lapped adn aligned at: http://www.jrfmagnetics.com with sending out the whole headstack assembly that will eliminate any mounting issues and alignment for you. # Tapes, Concertone is a poor option for your machine, Goldear and our other members is exactly right, a problem tape for both shedding and lack of produce stabile and high signal value. And using EE-tapes on a X-1000R can be another long term damage to your heads, have seen heads wear down much faster using EE-tapes on these models, suggest new fresh tape or use Maxell instead. Personally not a big fan of EE-tapes because of this problem. # Service the whole deck, as we all know asking other members here in the tape section for this and offer manuals etc, is not allowed, please follow our rules. Private PM is fine. # If you don't want to ship your deck, New Jersey Factory Service has good reputation with these models and not so far away from Baltimore, or ask Fred in CA if he can help out, suggest you take the wood-cabinet of the deck first to prevent damage as the plastic one underneath is more safer during shipping 
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#56
11-09-2009, 03:11 PM
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Are the wires that connect the headstack to the unit soldered or plug in to the pc board? Who can provide quality affordable pinchrollers? Is the in- out movement of the right capstan to pinchroller shaft (facing unit from front face) normal? It is almost 3/16 of an inch, whereas the left one is a bit more the 1/16 of an inch? From your post I can see replacing the belt is fairly easy. Photos tell the tale. The all important washer that some people loose, what is the approx thickness or size if mine is missing? Any idea what JRF Magnetics charges recondition and adjust all the heads in the headstack...just ballpark? One more thing, It has been suggested by some that demagnetizing my heads and pathways may correct my sound issues. I am getting a demagnetizer and will use it for maintenance, but in your opinion will it really make a difference at this point for this problem? Are the Demag units on ebay any good? Thank you Vintage TX for all the above info, your time and any more info you can provide me. Thanks, Phil
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#57
11-09-2009, 11:41 PM
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How difficult is it to remove the whole headstack?
# Well, wood-cabinet, plastic cabinet, head-cover and a couple of large phillips screws for the headstack + several connectors on the rec/play board. I usually take off the lower rear part (RCA connection and power-cord assembly plate" to reach properly. Are the wires that connect the headstack to the unit soldered or plug in to the pc board? # All connectors. Who can provide quality affordable pinchrollers? # Two options = new from Teac in CA or rebuild the old ones from Terry Witt. Is the in- out movement of the right capstan to pinchroller shaft (facing unit from front face) normal? It is almost 3/16 of an inch, whereas the left one is a bit more the 1/16 of an inch? # That's too much movement on the R-side, both should be the same (1/16) Could be the mounting plate behind the fly-wheels are not mounted correctly or the small plastic center point is broken where the axel goes against on the mounting plate. From your post I can see replacing the belt is fairly easy. Photos tell the tale. The all important washer that some people loose, what is the approx thickness or size if mine is missing? # The washer if missing create problems with reverse play or forward play with tape falling down below the headstack or goes off one of the capstan-shaft, in this case I don't think it's missing as yours play both reverse /forward correct ? Any idea what JRF Magnetics charges recondition and adjust all the heads in the headstack...just ballpark? # It depends if your heads can be re-lapped or not, after shipping the headstack you recieve a condition spec's and what's needed + cost. One more thing, It has been suggested by some that demagnetizing my heads and pathways may correct my sound issues. I am getting a demagnetizer and will use it for maintenance, but in your opinion will it really make a difference at this point for this problem? Are the Demag units on ebay any good? # Demag the heads is important, in some cases here with different decks playback usually has issues. I would suggest a bigger demag instead for those small ones for cassette decks, a couple fo good older models are: Sony HE2 or Teac E1, both are very well suited for reel to reel decks. I been using a Sony HE-2 for 20 years, no problems at all. Thank you Vintage TX for all the above info, your time and any more info you can provide me. Thanks, Phil
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