Pioneer RT-1011L Parts Help

Greetings, all - I am working on restoring my uncle's Pioneer RT-1011L reel-to-reel, and I have it working well, except for the "control lever" that regulates the power to the capstan. (First off, I don't know what this lever is actually called for which to search for parts - it's the one the tape threads under and then up to the take-up reel).

The switch inside works fine, but the problem is that the copper spring inside the unit to stop the lever has lost its tension over the years, and the lever easily falls past the notch and keeps the capstan and spindles running - sometimes uninterrupted, causing absolute mayhem with the tape spinning endlessly at a very high speed, whipping the tape end all over the place. As it stands right now, we can't leave the machine unattended near the end of the tape.

I have tried adjusting the copper spring with a pliers myself, but I haven't been able to get it right. I'd be much more comfortable replacing it with a fresh spring. Any help with the name of this assembly and the part itself would be appreciated, as well as suggestions on a source to obtain one.

Thank you,
Dan Sorce

dfs824 said:

....The switch inside works fine, but the problem is that the copper spring inside

I have tried adjusting the copper spring with a pliers myself, but I haven't been able to get it right. I'd be much more comfortable replacing it with a fresh spring. Any help with the name of this assembly and the part itself would be appreciated, as well as suggestions on a source to obtain one.

Thank you,
Dan Sorce

Click to expand...

Sound more to me, that it is the position of the switch you have to adjust.

can't remember that deck, but as you describe it, when tape runs out, the right lever drops down, and activates a microswitch. quite a common method on many decks.
As i read your text, the lever drops furter down, passing that switch

From the inside of the machine, the lever has a metal cylinder attached to the end of it, about a dime's diameter, with a notch cut out of the side, making it look sort of like a pac-man shape. The copper spring is actually a flat plate that rubs on the side of this cylinder, with the microswitch positioned immediately on the other side of the spring adjacent to the cylinder. When the lever is turned to the 'off' position, the notch allows the spring to move toward the center of the cylinder, relieving pressure on the microswitch and disengages the button.

I probably should try to post a picture, but that'll have to wait - I don't have the machine with me at this moment.

The parts name is Tension arm, did you try your local hardware-store ?
I usually make my own cutting them down and bend a loop.
Here is a picture of the assembly RT-1011 /1020 and 1050 are the same.

Vintage TX said:

The parts name is Tension arm, did you try your local hardware-store ?
I usually make my own cutting them down and bend a loop.
Here is a picture of the assembly RT-1011 /1020 and 1050 are the same.

Click to expand...

allthough the pic show fine details - i think that the first i hear of, where the arm can pass beyond the point of activating the switch

All, thanks again for the help with this one. I got the machine back this afternoon, and upon taking it apart, I discovered that the "stop plate" was bent on the bracket! (Part 58 in Vintage TX's attachment hits the culprit plate). Not quite sure exactly *HOW* this internal, stationary piece can get bent, but my uncle's an unique 'talent' in handling electronics... In any case, a little work with a needlenose pliers and we're back in business.