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Kenwood 500 Supreme Series Find
- Thread starter SoCal Sam
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Poor beastie looks like it needs a hug.
SoCal Sam
Lunatic Member
Sheesh, the faceplate is caked in paint. How sloppy can one be? I harvested the only paint-free one piece knob to complete my 650. Now that's a knob you will NEVER find. I slapped on a replacement to make the 500 whole.
Anyways, the good news is the 500 has a heart of gold and sounds fantastic. I've been playing it for the last hour and it runs cool. Too bad about the warts.
Anyways, the good news is the 500 has a heart of gold and sounds fantastic. I've been playing it for the last hour and it runs cool. Too bad about the warts.
_Attila_
Asking & asking & aski...
To remove the paint on the faceplate just use some washing agent (the dry powder form). Put a lot of it in some warm water (100-200 ml for 2-4 liters water), dip the faceplate in it and wait for a couple of hours. If you don't want to wait, just dampen the faceplate, put dry powder on it, damper again so you get paste-like consistency, wait 10-15 min, and gently brush with a medium or soft toothbrush. Washing agent in powder form just works wonder!
Do the same on your knobs and you should get a paint-free faceplate!
Please use some gloves (latex gloves are fine!), as the washing agent will dry out your skin... At least, I have to use them...
The only drawback I know: sometime the washing agent can melt the glue used on the faceplate or the knobs. I never had problem with the marking on faceplates using this method. But it won't be of any use if it is baked paint...
Do the same on your knobs and you should get a paint-free faceplate!
Please use some gloves (latex gloves are fine!), as the washing agent will dry out your skin... At least, I have to use them...
The only drawback I know: sometime the washing agent can melt the glue used on the faceplate or the knobs. I never had problem with the marking on faceplates using this method. But it won't be of any use if it is baked paint...
_Attila_
Asking & asking & aski...
The one for color clothes that is working from 30°C on 
If it's good for my clothes, it won't hurt my faceplates. But I have to admit, I never tried such a high concentration of washing agent on my clothes
If you're unconfident with normal washing agent, you can use the one for delicate clothes (wool and so on...).
Normally you should have something similar in your home
But the liquid variant isn't quite so powerful for removing dirt on faceplates... 
EDIT: something like this: http://www.ariel.co.uk/products_sensitive.html
Maybe washing agent isn't the right name in English?
If it's good for my clothes, it won't hurt my faceplates. But I have to admit, I never tried such a high concentration of washing agent on my clothes
If you're unconfident with normal washing agent, you can use the one for delicate clothes (wool and so on...).
Normally you should have something similar in your home
But the liquid variant isn't quite so powerful for removing dirt on faceplates... EDIT: something like this: http://www.ariel.co.uk/products_sensitive.html
Maybe washing agent isn't the right name in English?
SoCal Sam
Lunatic Member
The one for color clothes that is working from 30°C on
If it's good for my clothes, it won't hurt my faceplates. But I have to admit, I never tried such a high concentration of washing agent on my clothes
If you're unconfident with normal washing agent, you can use the one for delicate clothes (wool and so on...).
Normally you should have something similar in your home
EDIT: something like this: http://www.ariel.co.uk/products_sensitive.html
Maybe washing agent isn't the right name in English?
Ah yes, laundry detergent. I'll give it a try, thanks.
BTW, your English is much better than my German!:thmbsp:
_Attila_
Asking & asking & aski...
SoCal Sam
Lunatic Member
It was another beautiful afternoon in So Cal so I opened my garage door and got to work cleaning the 500. The insides were covered in black grime that smelled like diesel soot. I think this amp did service in a warehouse. I shot all of the controls with Deoxit. That wasn't paint on the faceplate. It looks like some chemical had splashed on and corroded the aluminum. I sanded off the surface corrosion and blended as best as I could. I also sanded the burrs on the faceplate edges. It looks better now but it will never be what it was. I can't complain, this amp sounds fantastic.
The 500 has a lot in common with the 600/650. The Sanken output transistors are the same. There are different transformers and main filters. The 500 has 15,000 uF 71V x4 while the 600 has 18,000 uF 71V's. I understand the power ratings (130wpc vs. 100?) are different but in home use, it is impossible to tell the difference in volume output. The 500 controls my 15 inch woofer JBL L45 Flairs with the greatest of ease.
The 500 has a lot in common with the 600/650. The Sanken output transistors are the same. There are different transformers and main filters. The 500 has 15,000 uF 71V x4 while the 600 has 18,000 uF 71V's. I understand the power ratings (130wpc vs. 100?) are different but in home use, it is impossible to tell the difference in volume output. The 500 controls my 15 inch woofer JBL L45 Flairs with the greatest of ease.
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SoCal Sam
Lunatic Member
The "JUNK YARD DOG"! So true, this Kenny came from a surplus/salvage yard. Here are some photos after three hours of cleanup. The ALPS volume control was black when I started. It will never look like a show dog but at least it can come into the house.
Bob@FM
Well-Known Member
Nice find. I have both the 500 and 600 too.
My suggestion for the faceplate
once it is clean - Mothers mag wheel polish, or some other brand. Get it at Pep Boys or some other dumb auto store. Give it at least 3-4 light coats, with a damp cotton cloth. The cloth will get dark, keep turning it and use a clean area. I use my old t shirts. Stay away from lettering.
Do it until you are bored or it looks great whichever comes first.
Then wash it off well, get all the grit off. Then car polish. That's how I do mine. They glow like new.
I have both manuals, they are almost identical except for a trinket control here and there, and the stuff you already noted about power.
You have to be really careful shipping these, the chassis/sheet metal case is somewhat light/thin for the weight of the amp.
schematics, service manual here
http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Kenwoodaudio/files/Kenwood 500, 600, 650 /
Bob
My suggestion for the faceplate
once it is clean - Mothers mag wheel polish, or some other brand. Get it at Pep Boys or some other dumb auto store. Give it at least 3-4 light coats, with a damp cotton cloth. The cloth will get dark, keep turning it and use a clean area. I use my old t shirts. Stay away from lettering.
Do it until you are bored or it looks great whichever comes first.
Then wash it off well, get all the grit off. Then car polish. That's how I do mine. They glow like new.
I have both manuals, they are almost identical except for a trinket control here and there, and the stuff you already noted about power.
You have to be really careful shipping these, the chassis/sheet metal case is somewhat light/thin for the weight of the amp.
schematics, service manual here
http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Kenwoodaudio/files/Kenwood 500, 600, 650 /
Bob
SoCal Sam
Lunatic Member
Hi Bob: Thanks for the advice. Sadly the faceplate discoloration is corrosion that has eaten through the finish and even into the aluminum. I sanded away the oxidation and tried to blend the brush marks to make it look less offensive.
My Yahoo account is messed up so I can't join. I wonder if I can send you a PM and have you email me the schematic and service manual. Thanks, Sam.
My Yahoo account is messed up so I can't join. I wonder if I can send you a PM and have you email me the schematic and service manual. Thanks, Sam.
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