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Speaker/cabinet sealer
- Thread starter klsva
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Maxamillion
Super Member
I used Loctite Power Grab construction adhesive on my RSIIb cabinets. It's easy to smooth into the joints with a finger and dries rock-hard without cracking (unless you put it on an inch thick!).
Goodwill_HiFi
Super Member
You really need to clarify what you are trying to seal...... the cabinet parts to each other, or the drivers to the cabinet. You've got an answer for each scenario, so far.
markus
Master Procrastinator
for interior seams, I've always used '25 year' silicone caulk . . .
for the woofer opening, you definitely want something non-permanent - weatherstripping works, but you could just use what they used back in the day - plumbers putty :yes:
just make sure to clean both mating surfaces, and if you really want to go crazy, use T-nuts to mount the woofer, instead of the original wood screws . .
for the woofer opening, you definitely want something non-permanent - weatherstripping works, but you could just use what they used back in the day - plumbers putty :yes:
just make sure to clean both mating surfaces, and if you really want to go crazy, use T-nuts to mount the woofer, instead of the original wood screws . .
KLH9
A Double Pair Sounds OK
And there is another answer if they want to seal the wood veneer.
want to make your old speakers look new,or at least much better? try this:
http://www.homebrands.com/reprosh30.html
I use it on all my wood speakers.Its awesome.really.
http://www.homebrands.com/reprosh30.html
I use it on all my wood speakers.Its awesome.really.
Maxamillion
Super Member
Yikes! I'm talking about sealing the inside seams of the cabinets where the panels meet! Do NOT use construction adhesive to seal the woofers to the cabinet, unless you want them to stay there forever!
CallMeJoe
Over Modulator
For seam sealing and driver sealing, I favor 3M Black Strip Caulk. Sticks to damn near anything, easily worked and non-hardening. It comes in boxes of 60 12" long strips about 1/8" thick and 3/16" wide, which can be rolled thinner or rolled together as desired.
KLH9
A Double Pair Sounds OK
From their web site: http://proshotcorporation.com/products.shtml
"Perfect for finished oak, cherry, hickory, birch, maple, pine, wood laminates - any finished wood except furniture."
I've emailed them and asked for more info about that last "except furniture" part.
.
Mark W.
Nut house of the Universe
Not sure you need to go this far but the very best caulking compound used in construction is Vulkem 921 or 911 it is a Urethane type compound and the stickest **** I've ever tried to get off anything save baby ****. I been using it while residing my house with Hardie Plank (cement board) and its ability to adhear to a joint is amazing. Be sure to have a roll of TP to pickup or try to wipe up any mess. A wet finger makes a good smoothing tool. It akes 4 days to be dry but never gets hard always a little flex so it should be real good for seams in cabinets.
Rygen
I can break any motor.
Agreed. This is what I did to my Utah's.
