AU-517 Restoration Questions

J

jonah1979

New Member
New member, first post!

I just bought my first Sansui integrated and it will arrive tomorrow. It's a AU517 and I cant wait to get it setup. I anticipate that it will need to be recapped and maybe more. From poking around online it seems that you replace most or all of the electrolytic capacitors on each of the boards.

Two questions...

While I have the boards out, is there anything else that should be replaced/done to a 35 year old amp? Other caps, diodes, connectors etc. I feel like I should take care of everything while it's in pieces. Also specific part recs. would be great.

I plan on using Panasonic FC caps on the power supply and protection board. Any recommendations for caps on the EQ, tone, driver boards, etc.?

Thanks in advance,
Jonah
 
Congrats on your AU-517

Hello Jonah,

It seems that you have already pretty good idea of the things you want to do with your unit.

But, take a chance to listen to your AU-517 first before you tear it apart.

What you can do is to check idling current levels first.

Enjoy.
 
Idling Current Levels

Thanks Karl!

In regards to checking idling current levels...

Where is this measurement taken? Proper value?

Ive been looking through the service manual for the 517 and Sec. 4-1 mentions DC Volt readings at the speaker terminals and Bias Current measured on the board.

Is this what your referring to?

Best,
Jonah
 
There are 2 special terminals on each Driver board for the purpose of setting the idle or Bias current. To do this you measure a voltage across those terminals, and set the trimmer resistor on the driver board according to the required voltage in the bias setting procedure in the SM.

DC voltmeter readings at the speaker terminals are for DC offset, which ideally should be 0V - this is another adjustment on the driver board - different trimmers for this - 2 pairs of 2 - all in the SM IIRC.
 
Audio Path Caps

Awesome. Ill check the measurements this evening.

Quickly back to re-capping...

If I end up with this thing in pieces, should I go ahead and replace all electrolytic caps on the driver boards, tone, eq, etc.?

With Panasonic FCs in the power supply, I'm looking for a recommendation for audio path caps. Looking for something nice but not crazy expensive. Was considering Elna Silmic II or Nichicon Muse. Any thoughts?

Thanks!
 
jonah1979 said:
Awesome. Ill check the measurements this evening.

Quickly back to re-capping...

If I end up with this thing in pieces, should I go ahead and replace all electrolytic caps on the driver boards, tone, eq, etc.?

With Panasonic FCs in the power supply, I'm looking for a recommendation for audio path caps. Looking for something nice but not crazy expensive. Was considering Elna Silmic II or Nichicon Muse. Any thoughts?

Thanks!
Click to expand...
Look at this Thread: Look at Post 1. It's that Red Glue you MUST look for. This Glue Eats everything in the path...I call it "The Blob".
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=304900

My Recap: http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=566203

Should you Recap...:yes:
 
The Blob

Thanks for the info CohibaJoe. Your 517 is sweeettt!!

Im gonna order caps and hopefully get into this next week.

Regarding the blob.... Just scrape it off and replace any parts with corrosion?

Also, any reason to go with caps rated at a higher voltage than what is spec'd?

Thanks all!!!

:banana::banana::banana:
 
jonah1979 said:
Thanks for the info CohibaJoe. Your 517 is sweeettt!!

Im gonna order caps and hopefully get into this next week.

Regarding the blob.... Just scrape it off and replace any parts with corrosion?

Also, any reason to go with caps rated at a higher voltage than what is spec'd?

Thanks all!!!

:banana::banana::banana:
Click to expand...
Yes...Had a few Caps that had the glue on the Pins...:eek: Also on a few Resistors that needed to be Replaced.

When you remove the Glue...just needed to scape and clean up with 91% alcohol...Look at every part the glue may have touched.

As for Caps...Search this site and a # of Threads (with Nice Pictures) of the work. You can see what I have used. Many use Panasonic FC...I also use Panasonic FR in the Power Area. These have a Lower ECR then FC.

I always replace the Main Caps...Always a Big Improvement..Tighter Bass, Smoother and Cleaner Sounding then the OLD 1's. Looking for a Complete Job to what I do.
 
As for those nasty glue, u cld soften it wif applying acetone in which scrapping off with an ice-cream stick makes a lot easy.

As for caps specs voltage. A bit high side shd be ok i guess?
 
AU-517 recap

Those BC VISHAY 15,000uF 63V themselves are wonderful...
No idea how much they cost now, but an unit like this deserve those main caps in, indeed.

I had another AU-317 and replaced the main caps with BC's 10,000uF 63V... They became my faves...

Keep in mind the replacements of all VD1212 diodes and fuse resistors as well.
 
jonah1979 said:
Thanks for the info CohibaJoe. Your 517 is sweeettt!!

Im gonna order caps and hopefully get into this next week.

Regarding the blob.... Just scrape it off and replace any parts with corrosion?

Also, any reason to go with caps rated at a higher voltage than what is spec'd?

Thanks all!!!

:banana::banana::banana:
Click to expand...

Karl vd Berg said:
Those BC VISHAY 15,000uF 63V themselves are wonderful...
No idea how much they cost now, but an unit like this deserve those main caps in, indeed.

I had another AU-317 and replaced the main caps with BC's 10,000uF 63V... They became my faves...

Keep in mind the replacements of all VD1212 diodes and fuse resistors as well.
Click to expand...
I have checked with the Supplier that I did get these from BC VISHAY 15,000uF 63V. They are still available.

jonah1979...If your looking to Recap the Mains...I will PM you. I need to order some Caps anyway and can get these also...4 BC VISHAY 15,000uF 63V are a "Grant".

For me...BC VISHAY and EPCOS are the Best for Main Caps.
 
Big Caps and Diodes

Karl vd Berg...

Scoured the internet for the VD1212 diodes and couldn't find them anywhere. I just ordered some 1N4148TA diodes as I heard you can put two in series to replace the VD1212s.

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Fairchild-Semiconductor/1N4148TA/?qs=yitr4/ftwBD5qsyZHK1L7g==

Will def replace the resistor fuses too. Thanks for the heads up!

CohibaJoe...

I checked on the BC Vishay 15000uF 63V and they look nice but kinda pricey. Newark has them for about $34.00 USD each. Im sorta leaning toward the Nichicon KG Series 15000uF 63V. 40mm diameter and $24.00 each.

They should be fine, no?
 
jonah1979 said:
Karl vd Berg...

Scoured the internet for the VD1212 diodes and couldn't find them anywhere. I just ordered some 1N4148TA diodes as I heard you can put two in series to replace the VD1212s.

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Fairchild-Semiconductor/1N4148TA/?qs=yitr4/ftwBD5qsyZHK1L7g==

Will def replace the resistor fuses too. Thanks for the heads up!

CohibaJoe...

I checked on the BC Vishay 15000uF 63V and they look nice but kinda pricey. Newark has them for about $34.00 USD each. Im sorta leaning toward the Nichicon KG Series 15000uF 63V. 40mm diameter and $24.00 each.

They should be fine, no?
Click to expand...
Yes, two 1N4148 in series for each VD1212 found. They have always these double diode marks in the schematics... And see John's thread for the fuse resistors as well.



k0ki35.jpg


-------------------

I remember I paid 12 Euros for each BC Vishay 10,000uF 63V. Newark is sometimes a bit expensive because they have to ship from New Jersey and, depending where you are, you pay some extras, sometimes. The Nichicon KG Series 15000uF 63V are absolutely fine, great caps too.

{edit} Jonah1979, if CohibaJoe can source the BC Vishay 15,000uF for you it would be wonderful...
 
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Fuse Resistors

Karl... I poked around and just to be clear about the fuse resistors.

Can you replace them with 1/4 or 1/2 Watt Metal Film resistors?


CohibaJoe... Do you have a source and ballpark price for the big caps?

Thanks everyone for all of your help and expertise. I have a big week ahead of me!!
 
Hi,

For the small fuse resistors R47 to R50 (82ohm) on the equaliser F-2723 board, and R23 and R25 (150 ohm) on the main driver F-2717, it would be best to use 1/4watt size.

Cheers

John
 
Fuse Resistors on Drive Boards

Hey Skippy!

Thanks for the clarification.

One quick thing... in the service manual the L and R Channel Driver Boards are numbered F-2721 and F-2722 respectively. I couldn't find a reference to board number F-2717.

Are the fuse resistors at R23 on driver board F-2721 and R25 on driver board F-2722? I dont have the 517 open in front of me. Just hunkered down at the computer, so I apologize if I missed something.

Thanks,
Jonah
 
Hi,

My typo - the main amp board references are as you have noted - F-2721 and F-2722

The component references on each main amp board are the same, so there is an R23 ad an R25 on each board (so two fuse resistors on each board)

Cheers

John
 
EQ Board 2723

Thanks for the clearing that up John! Everything is going smoothly, removing the glue, double checking values...

One thing that's got me stumped is the EQ board (F-2723). Is there a trick to getting it out?

Those ribbon cables to the RCA inputs look like no fun. Do you just remove both boards?

Thanks,
Jonah
 
Yr is quite similar to my AU-717, F-2723 is the phono board tat i recapped follow by F-2720.

For my works, i desolder those 4 bands of ribbon cables, thereshd be another blk wire linking pt31 on the board to desolder if recalled. The plastic housing molex cable to detach n nt to forget the 2 long alu shaft need to be detach out as well to gain access too.

Vd1212 diode/fuse resistors/ecaps of normal n orange types to be redone.

Hope it of reference
 
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