Sansui G6700 220 volt??????

I just scored what appears to be an unmolested G6700 from the online GW store. Needs to be cleaned for sure, but not beat up at all. On the left side back is a sticker that reads 220volt. I am afraid to plug it in until I understand what that 220 volt sticker means. The tag on right side back indicates this unit as an AC 100/120/220/240 unit. is there a hidden jumper to change voltage for different countries on this unit?
thanks in advance for any advice

Yes your unit has a voltage selector. It may be inside and is a plug that just pulls out and re-oriented. These multivoltage units were sold in Military BX/PX/NEX stores overseas. Most were shipped for 220volts but were converted to 120Volts when shipped back to the US or were used on base/post. Remove the cover and you will see the jumper it is directly behind the speaker terminals. Make sure the arrow is pointed to the voltage at your residence.

Do look, but it's likely that the voltage is set but the sticker was never removed....I have only seen 1 that was wrong, a TU 888 tuner from ebay. Guy said it was working perfectly, but when I got it and tested it there were things wrong, especially the panel lights were dim as hell.

Thanks to CDfixer and nosirrah for the information, I will do the check on the voltage switch this weekend. I just toasted an 80GB Zune by accidentally reversing the polarity on a 12V battery so needless to say I did not want to turn this beautiful unit into a toaster. Your 2 replies have convinced me to become a subscriber along with the countless other great infomation I have gotten from this site. Regards

Remove the top cover and you will quickly spot the selector plug, just aft of the large filter caps. If the arrow is already pointing to "120" you are good to go.

If not, remove two screws, pull the plug out and reposition it so that the arrow points to 120.

Enjoy - - -

ghazzer,
thanks

update on G-6700 voltage selector

CDFixer, nosirrah, and ghazzer thanks
The jumper was set to 120 and the 220 sticker was not removed.
Photos attached.
The unit sounds incredible and is now cleaned up.
However the AM/FM display does not light and appears to be cracked and broken behind the front acrylic. So I am on a quest to know how to repair this and find parts.
if anyone can steer me towards a parts source please let me know.

I have a quite a few Sansui units with voltage stickers.....the stickers mean nothing. ONLY the selector does. Just set it to USA voltage and check the main fuse value.....and of you go!

WattNot said:

However the AM/FM display does not light and appears to be cracked and broken behind the front acrylic. So I am on a quest to know how to repair this and find parts.
if anyone can steer me towards a parts source please let me know.

Click to expand...

The digital display is the Achilles heel of this series. You will most likely need to replace the entire F-3000 bd, which usually means buying a "parts" unit that has a working board. Luckily they used the same board in the 4700,5700,6700&7700. Some are different versions, but I think it is just the jumper configuration.

Make sure that you remove the 40 pin DIP from the board with the cracked display and keep it for a spare. It is worth $50+ and has not been made for many years.

It won't stop you from enjoying the sounds - - -

Double check the fuse was changed. I did a 7070 that was set to 120V but no one changed the fuse from 3A to 5A. The unit apparently worked for a while; but it burnt the fuse holder up internally that there was more current being drawn than passing through it. I'd change the fuse; it'd blow immediately.

It was probably the only time that kind of failure will happen...to anyone. But still..make sure the fuse is the right value for 120VAC operation.

DewDude is right about checking the fuse, but the main fuse (F604) for the 6700 is 7A. There are 3 smaller 2A fuses on that board.

Thanks for the advice on the fuse. Now another problem had popped up. If I power the unit off if won't turn back on for about 5-10 minutes. After that time has passed it will power on and the sound is fine.

You can check the main power switch by plugging a lamp into the SWITCHED outlet on the back. It should turn on/off immediately with the switch.

Next I would suggest attaching a DMM to one of the large filter capacitors and monitoring the voltage after you turn it off. Should be about 52VDC PDQ after power on and drop down to ~5VDC in 10 or 12 seconds after power off, and keep dropping.

ghazzer,
Turned the power off and on 7 times and it clicked out of protection 7 times and came on. 8 through 10 would not power on. The switched outlet turned on a lamp all 10 times so main power switch must be OK. Wait 5 minutes and it will power on.

The fuse is indeed a 7am and a photo of the instruction sticker depending on voltage is attached.

Now how do I ID the large filter capacitors and get access to test them?

Can you read "7A" on the metal ends of the fuse, or are you just going with the label? It is probably safe to assume that it is not a 4A fuse because of the selector position and that it hasn't blown so far. Some people who work on these things will stick in whatever fuse they happen to have available at the time, so just be careful. Some AKers will say that you should rotate the fuses in the clips every 5 or 10 years to prevent corrosion build-up.

From the top of the chassis you can spot the two large filter caps just behind the transformer. Yours may be a different color.

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Measurements are best made from the bottom. REMEMBER that electricity can pack a wallop, and even kill, so treat it with the respect it deserves.

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After power has been off for about five minutes, clip the leads of your DMM to ground and the resistor lead connected to the positive terminal. Verify that the DMM is reading a low voltage, then turn the power on. Record the reading after it settles out, then turn power off and take note of the readings at about 5 second intervals for about 30 seconds.

This is not likely to locate your problem, but it will clear the bridge rectifier and your main source of power.

ghazzer,
The fuse is indeed a 7A, I removed it to read the amps and cleaned it up to check for corrosion. Thanks a ton for taking the time and the photos to show me the steps to check the filter caps. Mine are all black and I will check them on Friday. I assume you have to remove the bottom panel to check the caps and what voltage range are we talking about to initially set the DMM to? The chassis is the ground?
Mike

Chassis is ground, or you can clip to the ground lug between the two caps. B+ should be about +52VDC.

Take some pics of the circuit bds as you go in, for future reference.

Did not get to test the unit today but hopefully on Sunday. However I did find a new OKI tuning display driver IC MS5540 (DIP40) on EB. A Sansui technician had to buy 10 to get one and is selling the extras in case anyone else needs one. Apparently this chip fits multiple models including my G-6700.

The chip fits many types of Sansui receivers

tested filter caps

ghazzer
tested filter caps today
test 1
initial stable voltage 59.6 volts
after 5 sec 24.0 volts
10 13.4
15 11.5
20 8.6
25 6.6
30 5.1

test 2
initial 58.6v
5 26.2
10 16.1
15 11.7
20 8.6
25 6.6
30 5.0

circuit board next to filter caps looks like it has been pretty hot
thanks