CA-3000 Left output channel intermittent
- Thread starter cirtcele
- Start date
Just found it last night, don't have a plan yet. I figure when i remove the pcb i'll try to find options to do a better job with the trace repair. What about the passthru's, factory done or not. So far the photo's i have seen already had the solder removed so not sure what to look for. If i remove the solder from one and there is no pin then its not factory retro?
vigman
SUBSCRIBER
On mine the "pins" could be clearly seen on most pads.
I would pre cut a LOT of jumpers, bend em into a small "L" drop down solder top ( or bottom ) solder it, trim it , if needed ... bend bottom, trim & solder...inspect... mark it with sharpie on both sides. Start singing.. 99 pads on the PC to go.99 pads to go knock one down mark it around 98 pads on the PC to go.....
I would pre cut a LOT of jumpers, bend em into a small "L" drop down solder top ( or bottom ) solder it, trim it , if needed ... bend bottom, trim & solder...inspect... mark it with sharpie on both sides. Start singing.. 99 pads on the PC to go.99 pads to go knock one down mark it around 98 pads on the PC to go.....
Boobtubeman
Sleeps with tv parts
Seeing pic 3 with the blue wire too. is the strip to the right of the bridge supposed to be connected too?
SR
SR
blhagstrom
Mad Scientist, fixer.
RE: Pass through repair.
I had a bunch of solid copper wire pieces cut about and inch long and stuck in a piece of Styrofoam handy. The fenceless dog training wire (must be the wire you bury) worked perfectly. I found a roll cheap at a thrift store. Strip it and the copper is the perfect size.
I sucked the solder out. I used a dental tool to scrap a little trace clean next to the pass through. I bent a short "L" on the wire, dropped it in and soldered it down. Then flipped the board, scrapped a little trace, cut the wire so there was enough for another "L", bent the wire down and soldered it on.
Repeat until tired or done. I found something like 116 of them. I probably miscounted. Some are hiding under the tape near the connector pads. Some are tucked in by the switches and I had to remove the switches to get to them.
It sucks but until you do it, you'll never be able to trust the unit.
I had a bunch of solid copper wire pieces cut about and inch long and stuck in a piece of Styrofoam handy. The fenceless dog training wire (must be the wire you bury) worked perfectly. I found a roll cheap at a thrift store. Strip it and the copper is the perfect size.
I sucked the solder out. I used a dental tool to scrap a little trace clean next to the pass through. I bent a short "L" on the wire, dropped it in and soldered it down. Then flipped the board, scrapped a little trace, cut the wire so there was enough for another "L", bent the wire down and soldered it on.
Repeat until tired or done. I found something like 116 of them. I probably miscounted. Some are hiding under the tape near the connector pads. Some are tucked in by the switches and I had to remove the switches to get to them.
It sucks but until you do it, you'll never be able to trust the unit.
JOMARK911
Super Member
I would go the nichicon way. And if possible super through type iii. That is money wise , as they are not cheap. But are probably one of the best capacitors you can buy.
vigman
SUBSCRIBER
Nichicon makes some of the best caps out there…
In my units some of the smaller caps were still close to spec after 40 YEARS…
Measured on my sencore LC-102 a 4.7uf was 3.2 and so on… Bigger caps in the PS section were about 20% out the "OTHER brand you find in the Sansui didn't fair so well… But for 40 years common.. this is like tires that can go 250,000 miles and still have 40% tread and not ride like the Flintstones - mobile. I will not spec a…. this version sounds " better" in the product line.. but a cap that is hi temp rated will be more stable over a longer time. Do not buy replacements on E bay, to many fakes or really old stock… for the few $ more.. go Digikey or Mouser or whomever that is a LARGE dealer
In my units some of the smaller caps were still close to spec after 40 YEARS…
Measured on my sencore LC-102 a 4.7uf was 3.2 and so on… Bigger caps in the PS section were about 20% out the "OTHER brand you find in the Sansui didn't fair so well… But for 40 years common.. this is like tires that can go 250,000 miles and still have 40% tread and not ride like the Flintstones - mobile. I will not spec a…. this version sounds " better" in the product line.. but a cap that is hi temp rated will be more stable over a longer time. Do not buy replacements on E bay, to many fakes or really old stock… for the few $ more.. go Digikey or Mouser or whomever that is a LARGE dealer
JOMARK911
Super Member
Percy audio , also sells nichicon's among others.
I was checking his prices, and there is another thing to think. He has always fresh capacitors. Not stocked for decades like some others in the net.
I was checking for super throughs type iii in case I find a ba 3000 , and there is a guy something like hifi shop , or something like that , he has 22000μf -80v , type 3 , at 100$ each. Amd they are old production. More than 5 years old.
I was checking his prices, and there is another thing to think. He has always fresh capacitors. Not stocked for decades like some others in the net.
I was checking for super throughs type iii in case I find a ba 3000 , and there is a guy something like hifi shop , or something like that , he has 22000μf -80v , type 3 , at 100$ each. Amd they are old production. More than 5 years old.
JOMARK911
Super Member
Is this normal?
Started working on the pass-thru repair project tonight and came across this pcb mod, on both sides of the resistors the traces have been cut. I tried to find pictures of other units to see if they have the same mod. I not having much luck finding replacement caps. I want to use Nichicon audio grade caps if i order them now i might get them by October.
Started working on the pass-thru repair project tonight and came across this pcb mod, on both sides of the resistors the traces have been cut. I tried to find pictures of other units to see if they have the same mod. I not having much luck finding replacement caps. I want to use Nichicon audio grade caps if i order them now i might get them by October.
blhagstrom
Mad Scientist, fixer.
Started working on the pass-thru repair project tonight and came across this pcb mod, on both sides of the resistors the traces have been cut. I tried to find pictures of other units to see if they have the same mod. I not having much luck finding replacement caps. I want to use Nichicon audio grade caps if i order them now i might get them by October.
Looks factory. Design flaw corrected in assembly. Leave it.
Nichicon audio caps by October? Where are you looking?
I go through Mouser, search on capacitors, select aluminum electrolytic, leaded, select "in stock", select audio grade caps (far right), search on size needed. They usually have quite a selection on hand. They also now have Elna Similac II in stock for the smaller ones.
CDFixer
Number 1 USC Trojan Fan
Just a note there are two different meter boards that were used in the CA-3000 The F-2492 (as shown in the manual and the F-2496. The F-2496 was also used in the AU-20000 you can find board layouts in the AU-20000 manual.
The AU-20000 preamp is pretty close to identical to the CA-3000, it uses the same circuitry, just a different layout on some of the boards.
The AU-20000 preamp is pretty close to identical to the CA-3000, it uses the same circuitry, just a different layout on some of the boards.
