Buzz kill with the 890 receiver

i_m_jon

New Member
Buzz kill with the 890 receiver - update - fixed!

My first post dealt with rebuilding the driver board on a newly acquired 890 (8080) receiver. With some help here I was able to complete that project, adjust dc output, bias and give it the old jumpered backlight trick. It was completely awesome for a few days. Tonight it just died. At a low listening level the sound just went away. The cabinet is still off and I was right there when it happened. No poof, pffft, pop, smoke or anything. It was just like someone slowly turned the volume down. No input sources work (AM/FM, Aux).

I tried the pre-out to the input of another receiver and nothing. Tried pre-in directly from an iPod and the amplifier works fine. The only other clue is last night it faded twice for a second or so which definitely seemed strange, but at the time I chalked it up to something happening with the FM signal.

Thoughts anyone? Thanks!
 
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Same thing happened to me on my 9090. It was TR2 on the power supply board. I replaced TR1 and TR3 also since apparently they can go bad.
 
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Save thing happened to me on my 9090. It was TR2 on the power supply board. I replaced TR1 and TR3 also since apparently they can go bad.

Thanks, I'll check out those transistors; it is the same board (with a couple of different fuses and resistors.) When it happened to yours, did it sound like someone turned the volume down?
 
Yup pretty much. It was fine, then zonk, nothing on the front end. I put it on the shelf for nearly a year. It's now back in a main setup and sounding awesome.
 
Look on page 25 of the shop manual
F-2546
Pin 18 is ground
Pin 11 should have 6.5 volts ( AC for panel indicators & general lighting )?
Pin 15 should have +36 volts If this is gone, no pre section power
 
Look on page 25 of the shop manual
F-2546
Pin 18 is ground
Pin 11 should have 6.5 volts ( AC for panel indicators & general lighting )?
Pin 15 should have +36 volts If this is gone, no pre section power

I appreciate your help, but I'm unsure what I should be testing here. I can't find those designations on the 2546.
 
Here

18 is ground ( which I couldn't find )
BUT you can use 03-06-08-12
here's a marked up silk screen
 

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OK, I tested 15 and it was all over the place from 17 -34v DC. Generally in the low 20's. Only once was it above 30 when I just happened to snap the one photo. (11 was fine at 6.6AC btw)
 

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OK well without SOLID 34 volts the pre section will NOT work....
Look for cold solder connections around the regulator area...
 
Heck, got me beat, mine has less than 5 volts in pin15 ... :scratch2:

Houston, we have a problem....

SR
 
I find any of this " senior " sansui gear, anything bolted to a heatsink is loose... the more heat ( expansion ) cool ( contraction ) will just work the hardware loose over time.
When you have a TO-220 ( regulator ) coming loose from the heatsink.. that's BAD NEWS, so those area's are the "usuaul suspects" for cold brittle solder connections, dead devices... Not to mention other bits surrounding those get baked causing them to drift...
takes a few seconds to check,could save HOURS of bench time..
 
I think what Pete ment for you to Check Boob tube man... is for the AC input voltage select jumper is in the 110 volt position, not 220v...

Mike
 
OK well without SOLID 34 volts the pre section will NOT work....
Look for cold solder connections around the regulator area...

OK, I'm back on this. TR2 has previously been replaced and it appears the heatsink was also modified for better cooling. The soldering looked OK, but I removed and re-soldered and still have the same voltage issues on #15. It just fluctuates wildly from low teens to high 20's. Should I assume TR2 has failed again? I can replace it easy enough, but I'm unsure of what exactly I should purchase. Attached is the parts list for that board from the service manual. Should I also replace TR1 & 3 (like absolve2525 did on his 9090) just to be safe? Thanks
 

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