Model 2000 restore

I've got a Model 2000 (no letters) and it has some issues, so I decided to fix it.
First, I want to thank the other members of AK, the threads and expertise you supply is endless and very informative. I'd also like to give a special thanks to member larryderouin for his help with this project as well.

So for the recap I've attached the parts list - hopefully others can use this, though I'm pretty sure if you've got an "A" or "X" this wouldn't be working for you.

I should mention, I'm not touching any of the AM/FM receiver sections - the unit works great in this regard.

Diode Stack

I decided to do some of the easier boards first, as all boards are hard wired. There aren't any edge connectors it's all point to point in this regard. The only issue I ran into redoing this board was in regards to the 2 diodes that stand on end. I had to drill a bit larger hole(s) in order for the new diodes to fit. Dremel with a small bit is your friend. :thmbsp:

Ripple Filter

Next up was the Ripple Filter. Pretty easy, but again, be sure to take thorough notes or pictures so that you get the point to point wiring back correctly. I wasn't able to get most of the caps all the way down to board level, as the original holes were for the larger caps and larger pin spread. As far as I know, this shouldn't be an issue. Anyone think this would become an issue?

Quick Mention

I believe being organized helps being prepared. On that note, when I got in the parts for this project, I put them in bins with the labels from Mouser so it was easier to identify the parts by their designation. This has made it easier to not reach for the wrong part. Another note - don't get in a hurry, take your time and check your work. :yes:

quartermoonp said:

Next up was the Ripple Filter. Pretty easy, but again, be sure to take thorough notes or pictures so that you get the point to point wiring back correctly. I wasn't able to get most of the caps all the way down to board level, as the original holes were for the larger caps and larger pin spread. As far as I know, this shouldn't be an issue. Anyone think this would become an issue?

Click to expand...

It's no issues and works fine that way.

quartermoonp said:

I believe being organized helps being prepared. On that note, when I got in the parts for this project, I put them in bins with the labels from Mouser so it was easier to identify the parts by their designation. This has made it easier to not reach for the wrong part. Another note - don't get in a hurry, take your time and check your work. :yes:

Click to expand...

Good info and good suggestion! :yes:

Those smaller caps make it easier to read the PC board too. Only deal with the parts standing off the board would be in shipping, get some pretty hard knocks, but even so they would be fine I'd think. Sansui really built these things tough.

I've not ever had any problems with caps that didn't sit flat on the boards. If anything it can provide a little more air circulation around them. Good idea on the parts bins, although I just leave the parts in the bags and mark the bags with the part #'s. When I take one out, I delete that particular #.

Larry

Awesome work.....I'll be doing this soon

:thmbsp:

Power/Filter Caps

Not much progress, as my work area isn't heated very well and we've had some huge long cold snaps here.

I changed out the diodes on the Protection Board (nothing exciting to see here) and then decided to finish out the bottom parts of the receiver with the power and filter caps.

As before be sure to takes notes and pictures, since it's all hand point wiring on these guys. First I replaced the power cap. To my surprise, it was pretty much dead on in diameter terms that I was able to use the original bracket without modification.

The 2 filter caps are another story. They are considerably smaller in both height and diameter so I had to do some modification. I considered "stuffing" the old caps with the new, but decided to modify the fit of the new caps instead. I used 3/8" weather stripping and wrapped twice around the cap. This made it large enough to accommodate the bracket and gave it a bonus of some give should the receiver ever get bounced around.

The rest of the recap resumes once our weather decides to warm up. :scratch2:

F-1001C Boards

Finally able to resume work and up next were the F-1001C Boards.

Nothing fancy here, just usual recap of the electrolytics and I did have to replace one of the transistors on each board. Normally, I wouldn't have touched the transistors on these particular boards, but there was a mishap that called for it. Here's a picture of the recapped board and then both boards put back in place.

EQ Amp Section

Completed the EQ Amp Section last night.
The biggest time consumer is disconnecting the wiring - there are 19 different wires on this board. Remember when I said to be sure take pictures, notes, etc? Believe me, if you don't have a system you'll be in for a world of hurt when it comes time to rewire this board.
Only had to recap this board, everything else was good to go. Photos of before and after.

After each board or section, I've powered on the receiver (using the home made variac) - 1) to be sure I didn't screw something up and 2) to listen.

After this section, I've noticed that the receiver/amp is quieter than previous. I have just one more module left and I'm sure that will be the one that will quiet the whole 2K down where I expect it to be.

Glad you're taking the time to document all your work. I picked up a model 2000 a few weeks ago that I'm going to be restoring. Your thread will be a good reference for me. Thank you!

Shadow,
You're going to love the 2K, it sounds sooo good, almost tube like. There's no need to thank me, it's my small way of giving back to this wonderful community here at AK. :thmbsp:

Control Amp

Finished up the Control Amp board tonight. Once again, biggest time consumer is documenting and disconnecting all 18 wires (well really 22 as you'll see).

The first picture you'll see is just to give you an idea of the wiring.

The 2nd picture is a diagram I made and labeled to make the procedure easier.

The 3rd picture is showing the wires all labeled in correspondence to their location on the previous diagram.

The 4th picture is of the original board.

The 5th Picture is the completed board. I changed out all the caps and 4 transistors - The 2sc536 were changed to the KSC1845.

Word of caution on the wiring: The area to work in desoldering/soldering the wires is pretty cramped and there isn't much extra length to the wiring. If you use the diagram and numbering system I've laid out, be sure to do each wire one at a time and label it immediately after you've desoldered it. Then proceed to the next wire. You can get a bit more length on the wires if you take the bottom off the receiver and push up the wires from underneath. Again, there isn't a lot of play, but this will give you a bit more than what is there.

Ok, so it's back together - I power it up and what do I hear? Ahhh. silence. No more crackling with the volume all the way down. No more white noise. When I turn up the volume knob I just get nice clean signal.

I still need to do the bias, but that's for another day.

Good going! Back when I 1st did my 2K "A" it was so quiet it was like trying to listen for a TRIDENT sub in the ocean. Basically you listen for an absence of sound on a bearing as they are so large they blank out the sound on that bearing. believe it or not the ocean is noisy. You just have to know or learn what to listen for. My 2K is almost as quiet as the "A".

I don't use my 2K as much as I should. I like the looks of the "A" and "X" better, even tho they are pretty much similar electrically. I'd love to get another "A" or an "X". Right now I've got a 1967 FISHER 700-T Solid State Receiver running as my primary. The Sansui sounds almost the same, but heavier in the bass, where the FISHER is Heavy on BASS but not as much as the Sansui, but has more balanced mid's. Plus the 700-T puts out 50W vs 30 or so from the 2K, so a little more headroom.

Larry

Larry, I bet that Fisher is super sweet sounding!

The 2K is perfect for what I've assembled for "my rig" as of right now. I've a pair of the Whafedale W70D's that I'm finishing up and they love the lower wattage amps and ones that are and/or sound like tube gear. I'm confident this is going to be a really nice combination. :thmbsp: