Sansui 6060- I wonder what I did wrong?

jabski

Vintage gear noob
I recapped and replaced the transistors on the 2647 board, plus one cap on another board that Karl pointed out to me. Replaced my incandesants with LEDs.
Put it back together yesterday, and the lights look nice, but NO output at all. Plus, it blew both fuses, and before I noticed that, one resistor on another board started to smoke a bit.
Not sure if I was supposed to break it in or not, but one thing I wonder about, is that when I had the 2647 board out, I had replaced the lamps with the LEDs , and powered it up to see if they worked.
Did that mess it up?
The only other thing I could think of, is there are a few places where I replaced the transistors, where I had a slight solder bridge. I removed it the best that I could, and my eyesight nots so good( even with my magnifiers)and MAYBE there was still a flat, shiny trace between a few components. But I tried and tried ( wick with flux) and that was the best I could do.
Any ideas?? Kind of bummed about this......
 
i hope these show something that maybe i missed.
The back side of the small board shows where i had a solder bridge due to some sloppy solder sucking. I did try the flux on the wick method, and it seemed to take it off really well. However, a few spots still looked shiny, so I wasn't sure if I had the bridge entirely removed. I tried a few times in a few spots, but wasn't really sure if I got it all. Nothing seems visually wrong with those components, though....
As soon as I press the power switch, it blows both fuses, and on the image that shows the fuses, the resistor on the right started to smoke.
The LEDs that i bought are blue ones from eBay.
I bought plain white LEDs from Vintage Home Audio that I used in a QRX3500.
Dumb question, but it's AC going to the lamps...... do the LEDs have to be fed DC?
Thanks for any help.
 

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The outputs....?
You mean the disc shaped output transistors?
No, although I did buy replacements when I first got this in case they were toast.
But when I first got this, it was playing tuner, Aux, phono, etc.
It just had some loud popping noises, so I decided to"fix" it by replacing things.
Truth be told, this is my first attempt at doing this.
Without the help from you guys, I'd have been lost.
I was told at first that it may have been the transistors on the 2647 board, so i barreled in, and yanked the old ones out. Then it was suggested that caps would cause the popping, that the small transistors caused humming or hissing, not popping. On one picture that I had on here, a possible bulging cap was circled by another member, so that was replaced, along with all of the caps on the 2647.
I'd try replacing the new output transistors that I bought, but not sure if the problem that I'm having would blow those.
Would blown outputs cause the fuses to blow, and a resistor to smoke?
 
i hope these show something that maybe i missed.
The back side of the small board shows where i had a solder bridge due to some sloppy solder sucking. I did try the flux on the wick method, and it seemed to take it off really well. However, a few spots still looked shiny, so I wasn't sure if I had the bridge entirely removed. I tried a few times in a few spots, but wasn't really sure if I got it all. Nothing seems visually wrong with those components, though....
As soon as I press the power switch, it blows both fuses, and on the image that shows the fuses, the resistor on the right started to smoke.
The LEDs that i bought are blue ones from eBay.
I bought plain white LEDs from Vintage Home Audio that I used in a QRX3500.
Dumb question, but it's AC going to the lamps...... do the LEDs have to be fed DC?
Thanks for any help.

Don't change any other components until you know that is what is needed. You will just complicate your trouble shooting by adding more numbers to the equation.

So after you replaced the caps and transistor it blows the fuses.? If that is what happened are you sure you have the caps in correctly and the transistor in with Collector, Base and Emitter in correctly. I doubt the LEDs would cause the fuses to blow but I could be wrong. If it was working ok before you did the replacemet it sounds like you changed something.


Just thought of this. Are you sure the board is being installed correctly and using all of the male pins in the correct female slots. I know from experience that the board can be put in with the pins not going in correctly and this can cause results like you are describing.
 
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It would be helpful if you posted some better pics of the board you worked on. Turn the camera flash off and make sure you take the the pic outside in the sunlight. Make sure the focus is good and you take it at a slight angle to the board to eliminate reflections and give us the ability to see the transistor placements.
 
The 2647 board looks like the one that provides bias for the outputs. If you powered up without that board then I think your output transistors would see rail without bias... until something opened?
 
board
So did that mess up the,output transistors by powering up without the board in there?
 

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Almost certainly not, however, if you plugged the board in too soon after powering off (after LED check) there could have been significant main capacitor charge left. If the board was plugged-in, in this condition some damage could have occurred...

You still have the old trimmers in there I see. :scratch2:
 
Regarding the trimmers, yes, I didn't know if those should be replaced, so I left them there. My local shop has them, but I wasn't sure of specs, or for that matter, on how to dial them in.
The board wasn't replaced too soon. The only thing that may have happened is I cleaned the board with some Radio Shack cleaner that I had, and I wonder if that was not completely dry before I put it in and powered up. But I can't remember for sure.
Without the knowledge that you guys have, I'm probably going to retire this project. I appreciate the help that has been given, but I think I'm in over my head.
I wonder if the local electronics parts shop guy is looking for a side job.....?
Thanks
 
Oh Yes, I Deoxed everything after I first bought it and initially listened to it . It had scratchy controls.....But I never heard whether it went away, as I had the no sound/ fuse blowing/ resistor smoking problem after I was done.
One thing that I thought was strange, is after the Deoxit, there was what looks like green corrosion that oozed out. I've never had that happen before after cleaning controls,
 
There looks to be some solder bridging on these transistors. Use an ohmmeter and check for dead shorts on all the transistors. Check each leg to both the others and make sure none of them are shorted.
 

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Thanks for the tip Steve. I'll chec that tomorrow. I haven't looked at it in a few days, but I remember a few spots that had a solder bridge. I couldn't remove them, even with a wick. Someone here mentioned using flux on the wick, and it really worked well. Except for a few places...... It seemed like there was the thinnest solder layer that I couldn't take off. I tried a few times, and couldn't tell if it was indeed a very thin bridge, or just a clean board!! ( eyesight isn't that great anymore. Without my OptiVisors id be incapable of doing much....)
Heck, I'm even thinking of buying a new board, and starting fresh.
Is there a list somewhere of the components used on this board?
 
Yeah, I seem to have shorts between a few transistor legs to the small ceramic capacitors....
Not sure, but at this point, I think I may just buy a new board and be careful with soldering the new components onto it.... A new board is only $22 or so....
 
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