CD-10 Electronic Crossover

super98lsc

Well-Known Member
Well with some encouragement from JOMARK911 and a lot of help from Vigman my CD-10 Electronic Active X-over network arrived this afternoon. Looks good and internally very clean. Imagine I will re-cap it to bring it all up to spec. Its a Japan 100v so either Ill change the transformer in it or use an external step down in the rack. It doesnt draw much at all so no real worries there. Its clean and all the dividers work as they should. Some cosmetic work on the brushed aluminum and spraying on new clearcoat and such should have it looking pretty nice soon enough.

Next up.. finish all these amps I have to rebuild and set it up for a real world test!

- Rob
 

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COOL~
Hey give the part # off the top of the transformer.....
Wanna bet it's the same for a TU-9900??
 
Congrats Rob. It is very clean inside. Actually all of em are since they are closed boxes. Mine is also very clean. Find a small step down and fire it up. You'll be surprised at the time it takes for the led to glow. Some measurements we did on mine for voltage ripple showed zero. So I'm not going to recap it , yet.
 
Your right about the LED. I thought it was DOA at first. It sounds clean and being full of ELNAs vs Nippon chemi-craps.

I'll need to clean it up a bit externally. The top has rubber feet outlines from something sitting on top of it for a very very long time. The front panel is chipped and a tad rusty on its edges and backside. I can pull the panel and repaint it like new then rebuff the front brushed aluminum and clear coat that.
Closing on the house soon then I'll pickup a BA-3k or 5k and another 2k. Although multi amping I won't need that much power in each range.
 
Rob take a look at the top panel diagram and try to explain it. You'll find it quite difficult. Specially the assignment from left table to right.
 
I wouldnt mind having a manual/service manual for certain. The top diagram made sense to me. It just allows you to see where the crossover points will intersect based on the selections chosen for each range.

Take the 4Way for example.
A = the high frequency cutoff point - say we selected 150Hz
B = the low freqency cut off point for the LM (Lower midrange) which for this example say we selected 150Hz as well to provide somewhat of a seemless crossover point. If we use the 18db/octave mode then we would follow the graph on the left side for A over to 150Hz (lower case e ) then trace that line down to using the A freqency scale on the bottom and it shows us were -3db at 150Hz , follow the chart B over to 150hz = lower case e then trace line e down the curve using the frequency scale on the bottom right side and it will show that were picking up the beginning of our lower-midrange at -3db @150hz. Follow both down and were at -7db down at 200Hz using a 150 centering frequency.


Mike the power supply voltages are listed in the last photo.
It does have some clipped wires not used from the factory. Not very last photo, orange wire.
Presuming if I ordered that mult-voltage unit off e-scam and it fits the case and delivers the same voltages on the outputs but accepts US 120vAC input then im good to roll.
Guess Ill find out I ordered that RA-700 multi-voltage transformer and the voltage selector plug off fleabay, guy charged me 12.00 for the plug to go into the recepticle thats still attached to the transformer... lame.
 

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Last edited:
I cleaned the cover and got the rubber residue from the feet of whatever was stacked on top of it for years off. Acetone on a microfiber towel and rubbing gently not to lift / fade the silkscreen diagram off. Then I buffed it with 3m Perfect-It ultra-fine machine polish (car paint supplies) and a clean microfiber towel. Has a few scratches but at least its clean now.
 

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I wouldnt mind having a manual/service manual for certain. The top diagram made sense to me. It just allows you to see where the crossover points will intersect based on the selections chosen for each range.

Take the 4Way for example.
A = the high frequency cutoff point - say we selected 150Hz
B = the low freqency cut off point for the LM (Lower midrange) which for this example say we selected 150Hz as well to provide somewhat of a seemless crossover point. If we use the 18db/octave mode then we would follow the graph on the left side for A over to 150Hz (lower case e ) then trace that line down to using the A freqency scale on the bottom and it shows us were -3db at 150Hz , follow the chart B over to 150hz = lower case e then trace line e down the curve using the frequency scale on the bottom right side and it will show that were picking up the beginning of our lower-midrange at -3db @150hz. Follow both down and were at -7db down at 200Hz using a 150 centering frequency.


Mike the power supply voltages are listed in the last photo.
It does have some clipped wires not used from the factory. Not very last photo, orange wire.
Presuming if I ordered that mult-voltage unit off e-scam and it fits the case and delivers the same voltages on the outputs but accepts US 120vAC input then im good to roll.
Guess Ill find out I ordered that RA-700 multi-voltage transformer and the voltage selector plug off fleabay, guy charged me 12.00 for the plug to go into the recepticle thats still attached to the transformer... lame.

Rob high, yes I know all these about 4way crossing. Can you make it for a 3 way , 3way1 , 3way2 , or the other stuff that sansui has printed?
 
Yep I'll map it out. If not tonight perhaps tomorrow. It will help me understand all the options as well.
 
Rob,
Measure ACROSS:

1) Red & Brown ( READING )
2) The two Purples ( READING )
3) White & Purple #1 ( READING )
4) White & Purple #2 ( READING )

Me thinks you measured each wire using GND as a ref...
 
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