Sleeper Receiver Alert! Sansui 1000

Don't let anyone in on this secret. This receiver is beyond anything I could have imagined, the Japanese discovered. the Holy Grail of sound with this unit. The sensitivity of the tuner is better than my McIntosh MX110, no kidding and the receiver sounds warmer than either my Fisher 800c or Marantz 2275, it's that good.....shhh....I love this receiver

1000A, or 1000X? I love my X!

Prices on ebay imply that you're not the only one to feel that way:
They are starting to bring good money these days!
Glad you're enjoying yours!

I think he's talking about the 1000 (NO SUFFIX) with the 25E5 tubes for output's. 1963 or 1964 manufactured 1 year. Superceded with the 1000A. 1000A was last of the tube RECEIVERS for Sansui. The 1000X came out in 1969 or 70 IIRC.

If you have a SANSUI and the Variable input voltage selector has a 127V or 130V setting, recommend you set it for that. It's more than what your wall voltage is, adds another section of primary winding operating area to the transformer and results in a cooler running transformer and a lot less sag when cranking it to 11.

It's the 1000A with Sylvania 7591 output tubes......at this point I'm playing it thru Ohm Model E 2 way 8" speakers & they sound amazing. Can't wait to hook up my DQ-10's!

You're right. When they are rehabbed, and the tuner and MPX is aligned, it's a great receiver. My 1st tube receiver is a sansui 1000a I got back in '09. I still havne't tweaked the tuner yet, but the mpx plays very well. The output circuit is very similar to my FISHER 800-C's. It's got more of a "IN YOUR FACE" attitude, vs. the laid back attitude of the FISHER. I use the Sansui for Rock, classic Rock, Metal, anything faster and newer than 1960. Anything orchestral, chamber music, big band, or music before that the FISHER Shine's. It might be just voicing in how the engineers designed the circuits, but to me the SANSUI is more of a Brawler type of fighter, and the FISHER is more a Judo type fighter. (Sounds crazy I know, but that's how I see them.)

10ohm resistors on the cathode to ground (replace the ground with the resistor) pin 5 to ground on the outputs will allow you to measure the tube draw of each tube and if the fuse blows, will turn off the tube, and save the output transformer. Use a metal film 1/4w resistor. If your's is a 2 or 4 pot unit, you can turn the bias down to between 30 and 34ma. With mine that is between 70-80% of max dissipation of the output tubes. They'll run cooler, and still put out good sound. This is a more accurate way of biasing the tubes than going by the bias voltage.

If it's a single or dual pot unit you can convert it to a 4 pot unit(IBAM or Individual bias Adjustment board), or a BAL/BIAS board by Dave Gillespie. Go over to the FISHER Forum and search IBAM, or BAL BIAS Adjustment for 800-C. They work in the 1000A without modification, and give you a lot more control over the bias than the original circuits.

I just installed a quad of TUNG-SOL 7591A's. Got them last month and burned them in on my 800-C. Ran them up to about 18.5W per tube but didn't crank them too loud.

My original assessment of the 800-C vs the 1000A was pretty much on the mark. The 800-C is "Laid Back" overall, while the 1000A has an "IN YER FACE" attitude, which is exacerbated with the Tung-Sols, IMO. I've got them idling @ 31ma which with a 478 plate voltage is about 14.82watts per tube. About 76% of Max. Diss. and running into a pair of Lafayette SK312 12" coax drivers in Homebuilt cabs.

Before I put the cover back on. The Tung Sol's look tiny compared to the EH's.


need to get some grill cloth and some hardboard to make new fronts.