Electro-Voice Interface 1 Series II restoration

pete_mac

Super Member
I restored a pair of Electro-Voice Interface 1 Series II speakers last night. I scored these on ebay quite cheaply as the 'foam had deteriorated' according to the seller. I figured that the woofer surrounds were rotten and would require repair (they are 30 year old speakers after all!). Apparently they are the first range of speakers designed using Neville Thiele's research (ie. Thiele-Small parameters). Some tech info here: http://archives.telex.com/archives/EV/Speakers/EDS/Interface 1,2,3 EDS.pdf

Turns out that the woofers had been replaced with inferior aftermarket items from Dai-1chi which had cloth surrounds, and the foam surround and 'lens' over the tweeter was actually cactus. I was pretty disappointed as the replacement woofers were very average. Luckily the seller still had the original EV woofers in storage. I couldn't believe my luck as they are pretty much impossible to source these days, particularly in Australia. The foam surrounds were goneski, hence why they were replaced.

So, I ordered a set of proper fillet-less EV-style surrounds as well as the tweeter surround/lense from Msound and fixed them up. The tweeter surrounds are important as they are an 'acoustic lens' design coupled with EV's 'Superdome' 1.5" dome tweeter, so a deteriorated surround means they block too much sound, and no lens at all means the tweeters are too bright. Msound was an absolute pleasure to deal with, answering all of my questions extremely quickly and thoroughly. If it weren't for his comments regarding no EV hifi speakers having cloth surrounds, I would never have thought to check the branding of the woofer, and therefore would never have discovered that they were replacement items. Externally they looked like EV woofers to me, so I had no reason to think otherwise! Very grateful for his insight.

Despite buying a full refoam kit, I chickened out on shimming the voice coils. I've had great success doing it manually in the past with the assistance of either a test tone, a 1.5v battery, or just by feel, and the voice coil gap in these woofers felt no different in this regard. I found it to be very straight-forward indeed.

The cabinets are in great condition apart from some minor swelling of the cabinet in one corner due to exposure to some kind of liquid, and some minor shrinking of the veneer in the corners on the front face. The cabinets themselves were covered in a light vinyl to better match the seller's furniture. Thankfully this protected the cabinet from any scratches or dings, and the vinyl was really easy to remove.

Before vs after:

electrovoiceoldvsnewcovering.jpg



Replacement woofers and dead foam tweeter surround and acoustic lens:

electrovoiceincorner.jpg


electrovoicetweeterfoamrotten.jpg



Original woofers before refoaming (one on the left is cleaned, one on the right yet to be cleaned/prepared for refoaming):

wooferspriortorefoam.jpg



Refoaming - one down, one to go!

refoamingev.jpg



Replacement Dai-1chi woofer on the left, original on the right. Very similar in appearance, but worlds apart in performance. The original is far more efficient and musical, plus it is 6ohms vs 8ohms:

evvsdiaichi.jpg



Crossover (one capacitor is on the way out judging by the corrosion on the lead - will be replaced with poly film caps soon). Not sure what type of cap the big one is (wax/oil)? It is 26uf. The two blue electrolytic caps are 4.5uf each. The resistor is 5ohm 10W and pads the tweeter.

evcrossover.jpg



Beefy Superdome tweeter magnet:

evtweetermagnet.jpg



All drivers refitted and she's as good as new! Sounds fantastic. Very happy with the outcome given the cost, and these will now last for another 15+ years easily.

The EVs are noticeably more efficient than my Energy ESM2s and have much stronger midrange performance (I think the ESMs are quite laid back in this regard).

evfinished.jpg
 
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Nice work!!! When will you get closure on the crossover?

Thanks!

Definitely hoping to replace the crossover components in the very near future. Just need to find what I'm after at reasonable prices. I was hoping to grab a batch of Jantzen or Dayton poly capacitors from parts-express for these speakers, my Mach 1s, and the ESM2s, however postage to Australia is exorbitant ($35 or more for about $50-60 worth of capacitors!).

Might end up sourcing them locally methinks :)
 
Actually, I should probably ask, is there any drama with going with 25uf or 27uf caps (with 5% tolerance most probably)? I'm assuming not. These are more readily available than 26uf.

I will have to make up the 9uf value by using different caps (assuming that 8.2uf will be too low?) If so, this can be achieved with either 2 x 4.7uf to get 9.4uf, or a 4.7uf and 3.9uf to get 8.6uf.
 
25uf + 1uf in parallel makes 26
or 13 and 13


Indeedery! I was hoping to get Jantzen cross-caps, but if I go for the Dayton 5% then there's a larger range available. Have read that the Jantzens are a tad 'smoother' than the Daytons when used on tweeters, but I have absolutely no first-hand experience with either, so it's internet hearsay.

The other option is to go for electros on the low-pass and just use the polys on the high pass, but for a few extra bucks it's probably worth getting polys all 'round.

EDIT: I'm blind... Jantzen do a 2.2uf and 6.8uf which gives me 9uf :) Dayton also have various combos that will give 9uf too.

Any dramas with using different brands (ie. Daytons on the low pass, Jantzen on the highs?)
 
Wow, they look great. Thats some hefty magnet on that tweeter. Enjoy, EV has always made very fine equipment.
 
Had the opportunity for an extended listening session yesterday and I must say that I really like these speakers. I listen to quite a bit of electronic music and the EVs are very adept at reproducing this kind of music. They also shine with acoustic/rock and vocals. Definitely a bit more 'forward' in the midrange and treble than my other smaller speakers (but not the Mach1's) but I think the other speakers are a tad recessed in the mids.

Also had the chance to compare them directly with some KEF Carina II speakers which have 2 x 8" woofers and a 1" dome tweeter in a sealed enclosure that is only marginally larger than the EV enclosure. The KEFs sounded very similar to the Energy ESM2s in that they present a really nice sound stage and are easy on the ears. They lack bass compared to both the Energy and EV speakers though. Kinda expected this given that they feature two woofers crammed into a tiny sealed enclosure. Not a lot of xmax as each woofer is effectively fighting against the other.

All in all, I am extremely happy with being able to rescue the EVs given their performance.


Indeedery! I was hoping to get Jantzen cross-caps, but if I go for the Dayton 5% then there's a larger range available. Have read that the Jantzens are a tad 'smoother' than the Daytons when used on tweeters, but I have absolutely no first-hand experience with either, so it's internet hearsay.

The other option is to go for electros on the low-pass and just use the polys on the high pass, but for a few extra bucks it's probably worth getting polys all 'round.

EDIT: I'm blind... Jantzen do a 2.2uf and 6.8uf which gives me 9uf :) Dayton also have various combos that will give 9uf too.

Any dramas with using different brands (ie. Daytons on the low pass, Jantzen on the highs?)

Any further thoughts with regards to the above?
 
I rebuilt the crossovers a few days ago using AXON poly caps. The standard capacitors were actually a LONG way over their quoted values - the woofer cap at 26uf nominal measured as 33uf, and the tweeter caps were 10.2uf rather than 9uf. I was initially quite concerned as I purchased 26uf and 9uf caps as quoted on the original caps.

After the recapping there's a minor but noticeable difference in how the speakers deliver the upper frequencies. Overall they sound slightly nicer than before, but certainly no massive transformation though.
 
Some pics of the rebuilt crossover. The inductor was hot-glued down to the rear panel of the speaker and I wasn't game to try to remove it. I decided to replicate the look standard crossover as much as possible (within reason) whilst leaving the inductor in place.

The standard crossiver is based around a board with wire-wrap pins, so no components are actually soldered at all.

I based the rebuilt crossover around a solder tag strip which looks very similar to the original item. The speaker wire binding posts actually screw directly onto two of the mounting posts on the original unit, and unfortunately the replacement item has a different spacing between the mounts. Accordingly, I had to use some small jumper wires between the binding posts and the solder tag strip. All connections are soldered to ensure maximum conductivity.

Overall, I think the replacement crossover looks just as messy and ugly as the original, so I've achieved my aim of being 'true' to the original item ;) :D Most importantly, it functions and performs perfectly.

Before:

crossovermodsold.jpg


After (don't mind the messy black tape on the join between the wiring and the inductor - it was later replaced):

crossovermods1.jpg
 
Nice work! I really need to get some of those tweeter foams for my Sentry 100As - which seem to be essentially the same speaker as your Interfaces, but in much uglier cabinets.
 
Hi, I am working on the restoration of a pair of Interface 2. It seems like the original crossover only has one cap. The two blue caps from your picture seems to me two identical polarized caps making a substitute of the original non-polarized cap. I don't see any resistor being employed in the original design. Maybe the resistor is a mod by its previous owner? Just thinking...
 
Wow, this thread is an oldie. I have a pair of Sentry 100A monitors that have a long story of rescue as well. They are in my son's room, hooked up to a very nice Rotel integrated. This is definitely the best bookshelf system that I have ever been around.
 
Can you elaborate on how are the capacitors and resistor wired?

Sorry, these speakers are long gone and I didn't record the crossover schematic anywhere.

I have, however, recenty acquired some lovely Interface A series III in need of restoration. Thankfully it came with the outboard EQ unit. The crossover wil be completely different to the Interface 1, or course.
 
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