Sansui 7070 recap

tchuck

Super Member
Hey guys/gals,

So, I have these two Sansui 7070s that I just love to death. Well, one of them I love to death and the other is a parts unit I found locally for a song, but I love it symbolically for what it used to be and for it's future contributions. Namely keeping the other one up and running. Anyway, I've been reading a lot lately about capacitors and in light of the realization that the electrolytics in my beloved 7070s are nearing the end of their lifespans, I've decided to embark upon an epic recapping project. Specifically I'd like to replace all of them in both units. Having never done anything of this magnitude before, I'm very much still in the researching stage...or at least I was until I found these:

mccaps.jpg


I'm not really clear on the electrical effects of over-sizing these caps by this much (the original 7070 parts are 50V 10,000uf) and honestly if I didn't have a complete backup receiver I wouldn't have even considered it. Things being as they are I had a beer last night and warmed up the soldering iron...

Here are the original caps, snug in their homes:

IMG-20110918-00471.jpg


My backup baby under the knife:

IMG-20110918-00465.jpg


Old vs new:

IMG-20110918-00463.jpg


Emptiness:

IMG-20110918-00470.jpg


Now some of you may be thinking "wow, those new caps are big!" and the more astute among you may be thinking "wow, those caps are WAY TOO big!" Well, you're both right. In addition to being larger in height and diameter, the terminals are farther apart and offset differently. Ergo, I had to massage the Mc terminals a bit in order to match the spacing. Observe:

Sansui
IMG-20110918-00466.jpg


McIntosh post modification
IMG-20110918-00468.jpg


Note the spacing doesn't match on the micrometer dial. That's because the terminal slots on the board allowed for a slightly larger spacing. Considering I'm already in sketchy territory by bending them at all, I elected to utilize that extra room and bend them as little as possible.

About this time I'm thinking to myself "Ha! This is going to be soooo easy!" I bent the third post (a soldering lug) over and installed the cap with the bent terminals. So far, so good. I crack beer #2 and test fit cap #2. That's when my elation ends. The second cap is nowhere close to fitting due to the offset posts. The orientation is such that the soldering lugs face each other, and on the 7070 board there isn't room for these huge cans. The only way I can see that it could work is for the terminals to be swapped so that the "big half" faces away from the other cap, or if the offset was reversed which would have the same effect on the orientation. I drown my sorrows in beer #2 and hatch a plan.

Enter beer #3 and capacitor mod #2.

IMG-20110919-00474.jpg


These are two small picture hangers bent into a suitable shape and attached to the bent terminals of the second cap with plumbing solder at their base, and electrical solder at their ends. I had to use three heat sinks for each post in order to heat up the components enough to work while not bearing close witness to a small chemical explosion, but it worked. Contrary to how it looks in the pic, the connections are very solid and electrically sound. The result is that installed location is moved over about an inch, which is the perfect amount to fit it next to the first one. Elation resumes.

I stuck a couple bumpers on the exposed portions of the frankencap and reinstalled it on the board.

IMG-20110919-00475.jpg


IMG-20110919-00476.jpg


This first installation of the story does have a happy ending, but I have to warn you it gets a little hairy here...

As I said before, all of this is being done on my backup receiver, and I'm three stout beers deep in the late evening by this point, so I'm not being as careful and methodical as I could have been. I made sure that the new caps were secure in their new locations, plugged in the receiver to my variac set to 30V, clicked it on and went upstairs to hang out for a bit. I came back down to check after about 20min - everything looked good - and bumped up the variac to 70V. I heard the relay engage so I plugged in a couple of random full range drivers I have lying around. ie, a set I wouldn't miss. After 10 or so minutes of uneventful "burn-in" time I gently bumped up the variac to 120V and ever so slightly turned the volume knob. What happened next made my heart sink. From the speakers I expected to hear beautiful music I in fact heard the most horrible muted scratchy sound I've ever heard out of any speaker. The volume knob was practically unresponsive, the power meters didn't move at all. Ugh. I turned everything off and went to bed a very disappointed dude. :tears:

I went back down tonight - sober - to inspect my work and see if I made any stupid mistakes that might be obvious to my fresh eyes. This is what I found:

IMG-20110919-00483.jpg


As you can see, in my drunken haste last night I inadvertently soldered over the "moat" between the + terminal of caps #1 and #2, which had created a short that also blew three out of the four fuses on the main board. :no: Fortunately all it took was removing the solder bridge and replacing the three fuses for everything to return to normal. I performed the DC output and bias adjustments in the FSM and am more than happy to report that it sounds GREAT! I'd have to swap in exact replacements on my other 7070 in order to say whether the Mc caps are in fact an improvement but in it's current condition my "backup" unit sounds WAY better than the other one ever did! I'm definitely going to swap the Mc powered main boards now so i can test it on some real speakers. Needless to say this was a big success. Especially for me personally considering my huge lack of experience or electrical knowledge. :D

Cue banana: :banana:

I haven't ordered the rest of the caps yet. My tentative plan is to get Elna Silmic II caps for everything in the signal path, but beyond that I haven't really decided. Any suggestions?
 
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If those "McIntosh" caps were procured via surplus channels, then I would be highly circumspect about using them in a recapping project. The brand unfortunately does not confer any kind of temporally transcendental status.
 
I don't know their production origin. What exactly is your concern?

Sent from my BlackBerry 9800 using Tapatalk
 
The fact that they say "McIntosh" wasn't really a selling point to be honest. That's definitely what made me take a closer look, but what really sold me on them was the fact that they looked so similar in size, were "new", and were pretty cheap. I guess only time will tell. I didn't perform any permanent modifications to the board on which they are mounted, and as I said before this is my "parts unit", so there's no real risk as far as I know. I also ran it all night last night and this morning it was still going strong... :dunno:

I think you're implying that they may be low quality caps with "McIntosh" stamped on the side. If that's the case, what's the downside? Performance? Lifespan?

Sent from my BlackBerry 9800 using Tapatalk
 
Hey guys/gals,

So, I have these two Sansui 7070s that I just love to death. Well, one of them I love to death and the other is a parts unit I found locally for a song, but I love it symbolically for what it used to be and for it's future contributions. Namely keeping the other one up and running. Anyway, I've been reading a lot lately about capacitors and in light of the realization that the electrolytics in my beloved 7070s are nearing the end of their lifespans, I've decided to embark upon an epic recapping project. Specifically I'd like to replace all of them in both units. Having never done anything of this magnitude before, I'm very much still in the researching stage...or at least I was until I found these:

mccaps.jpg


I'm not really clear on the electrical effects of over-sizing these caps by this much (the original 7070 parts are 50V 10,000uf) and honestly if I didn't have a complete backup receiver I wouldn't have even considered it. Things being as they are I had a beer last night and warmed up the soldering iron...

Here are the original caps, snug in their homes:

IMG-20110918-00471.jpg


My backup baby under the knife:

IMG-20110918-00465.jpg


Old vs new:

IMG-20110918-00463.jpg


Emptiness:

IMG-20110918-00470.jpg


Now some of you may be thinking "wow, those new caps are big!" and the more astute among you may be thinking "wow, those caps are WAY TOO big!" Well, you're both right. In addition to being larger in height and diameter, the terminals are farther apart and offset differently. Ergo, I had to massage the Mc terminals a bit in order to match the spacing. Observe:

Sansui
IMG-20110918-00466.jpg


McIntosh post modification
IMG-20110918-00468.jpg


Note the spacing doesn't match on the micrometer dial. That's because the terminal slots on the board allowed for a slightly larger spacing. Considering I'm already in sketchy territory by bending them at all, I elected to utilize that extra room and bend them as little as possible.

About this time I'm thinking to myself "Ha! This is going to be soooo easy!" I bent the third post (a soldering lug) over and installed the cap with the bent terminals. So far, so good. I crack beer #2 and test fit cap #2. That's when my elation ends. The second cap is nowhere close to fitting due to the offset posts. The orientation is such that the soldering lugs face each other, and on the 7070 board there isn't room for these huge cans. The only way I can see that it could work is for the terminals to be swapped so that the "big half" faces away from the other cap, or if the offset was reversed which would have the same effect on the orientation. I drown my sorrows in beer #2 and hatch a plan.

Enter beer #3 and capacitor mod #2.

IMG-20110919-00474.jpg


These are two small picture hangers bent into a suitable shape and attached to the bent terminals of the second cap with plumbing solder at their base, and electrical solder at their ends. I had to use three heat sinks for each post in order to heat up the components enough to work while not bearing close witness to a small chemical explosion, but it worked. Contrary to how it looks in the pic, the connections are very solid and electrically sound. The result is that installed location is moved over about an inch, which is the perfect amount to fit it next to the first one. Elation resumes.

I stuck a couple bumpers on the exposed portions of the frankencap and reinstalled it on the board.

IMG-20110919-00475.jpg


IMG-20110919-00476.jpg


This first installation of the story does have a happy ending, but I have to warn you it gets a little hairy here...

As I said before, all of this is being done on my backup receiver, and I'm three stout beers deep in the late evening by this point, so I'm not being as careful and methodical as I could have been. I made sure that the new caps were secure in their new locations, plugged in the receiver to my variac set to 30V, clicked it on and went upstairs to hang out for a bit. I came back down to check after about 20min - everything looked good - and bumped up the variac to 70V. I heard the relay engage so I plugged in a couple of random full range drivers I have lying around. ie, a set I wouldn't miss. After 10 or so minutes of uneventful "burn-in" time I gently bumped up the variac to 120V and ever so slightly turned the volume knob. What happened next made my heart sink. From the speakers I expected to hear beautiful music I in fact heard the most horrible muted scratchy sound I've ever heard out of any speaker. The volume knob was practically unresponsive, the power meters didn't move at all. Ugh. I turned everything off and went to bed a very disappointed dude. :tears:

I went back down tonight - sober - to inspect my work and see if I made any stupid mistakes that might be obvious to my fresh eyes. This is what I found:

IMG-20110919-00483.jpg


As you can see, in my drunken haste last night I inadvertently soldered over the "moat" between the + terminal of caps #1 and #2, which had created a short that also blew three out of the four fuses on the main board. :no: Fortunately all it took was removing the solder bridge and replacing the three fuses for everything to return to normal. I performed the DC output and bias adjustments in the FSM and am more than happy to report that it sounds GREAT! I'd have to swap in exact replacements on my other 7070 in order to say whether the Mc caps are in fact an improvement but in it's current condition my "backup" unit sounds WAY better than the other one ever did! I'm definitely going to swap the Mc powered main boards now so i can test it on some real speakers. Needless to say this was a big success. Especially for me personally considering my huge lack of experience or electrical knowledge. :D

Cue banana: :banana:

I haven't ordered the rest of the caps yet. My tentative plan is to get Elna Silmic II caps for everything in the signal path, but beyond that I haven't really decided. Any suggestions?

looks like cold solder joints.
 
I think you're implying that they may be low quality caps with "McIntosh" stamped on the side. If that's the case, what's the downside? Performance? Lifespan?

The marking looks good enough to be genuine McIntosh (i.e. made for McIntosh) but the date of manufacture may be far in the past, and we know that old lytics are dubious performers. These caps could have ended up in the surplus sales channel for precisely that reason. It's also possible that they're outright fakes, despite the good marking quality. In general, it's best to use freshly manufactured lytics from reliable sources. Anything else is a crapshoot.
 
The marking looks good enough to be genuine McIntosh (i.e. made for McIntosh) but the date of manufacture may be far in the past, and we know that old lytics are dubious performers. These caps could have ended up in the surplus sales channel for precisely that reason. It's also possible that they're outright fakes, despite the good marking quality. In general, it's best to use freshly manufactured lytics from reliable sources. Anything else is a crapshoot.


Ahh, I see. I suppose the "new" designation could mean "never installed" rather than "newly manufactured". I assumed the latter.

Well, they sound good so far and it was a fun little mini-project, so I think I'll leave them in until they croak. Thanks for the heads up. Any advice about the rest of the caps? My plan thus far is to source Elna Sim II caps as much as possible, but there are a lot of sizes that I can't find (1.5uf for example). One huge looming question is whether the rest of the 7070 circuits are of a high enough quality to warrant the Elnas at all...
Thanks again for the help.

Sent from my BlackBerry 9800 using Tapatalk
 
I agree those joints look cold.

I'd also argue that once you do heat them enough to properly flow, how do you know you haven't reflowed the joints where you modified the terminals?

Don't get me wrong, ... I like your "FrankenCap" mod but it's very difficult to attach to the PCB without reflowing it.
 
I like your post and that you took the time to post pics.
I would assume that Mcintosh caps at the very least would have to be re-branded (?) Beyond that, the Elna's aren't that expensive. If you plan on keeping the unit, why not put 'em in?
Mike
 
I agree those joints look cold.

I'd also argue that once you do heat them enough to properly flow, how do you know you haven't reflowed the joints where you modified the terminals?

...


The joints are sloppy but not cold. I've also fixed them since that last pic.

As for how I know the first joint is still intact; I suppose I don't, but the caps feel tight in their places and they work, so the joints can't be THAT bad... .


Sent from my BlackBerry 9800 using Tapatalk
 
I like your post and that you took the time to post pics.

I would assume that Mcintosh caps at the very least would have to be re-branded (?) Beyond that, the Elna's aren't that expensive. If you plan on keeping the unit, why not put 'em in?

Mike


Thanks! I agree about the Elnas, but the issue is that I can't find all the sizes that I need.

Sent from my BlackBerry 9800 using Tapatalk
 
The joints are sloppy but not cold. I've also fixed them since that last pic.

As for how I know the first joint is still intact; I suppose I don't, but the caps feel tight in their places and they work, so the joints can't be THAT bad... .


Sent from my BlackBerry 9800 using Tapatalk

looking good to me them caps must be good looking at the burn from such a small short ... i test by charging em up to full then discharge test cappow .. no not really but another way
 
looking good to me them caps must be good looking at the burn from such a small short ... i test by charging em up to full then discharge test cappow .. no not really but another way


Heh, nice. I'm trying to avoid the "Ka-pow" if at all possible. :yes:


Sent from my BlackBerry 9800 using Tapatalk
 
I just pulled the caps to inspect the joints on the "Frankencap" and It's all good. It looks exactly like it did before I installed it. I reinstalled them in my main 7070 and made all the joints pretty for you guys. I'm sitting in my basement right now listening to the radio through it and the JBL L166 speakers I recently refoamed. Man, it really sounds great! What an improvement! If it weren't for AK I would have never attempted something like this. DIY rules. :thmbsup:

Now, to order the rest of the caps...


Sent from my BlackBerry 9800 using Tapatalk
 
Ok dudes, I just ordered most of the caps but am having trouble finding some of the rest. Anyone have an idea where I can find Silmic II caps in these sizes? Or if not, a suitable alternative?

1. 1.5uf 50V (I found 2.2uf 50V)
2. 0.22uf 50V (I found 1uf 50V)
3. 0.47uf 50V (I found 1uf 50V)
4. 330uf 63V
5. 1000uf 63V
6. 4.7uf 80V
7. 470uf 80V
8. 1000uf 80V

Thanks!
 
I received my order from Handmade Electronics (Silmic II caps), visited my local Norvac Electronics for the rest of the caps (Elna general purpose), then installed them last night. I also swapped out the "FM STEREO" indicator light (which required significant disassembly of the light board) and have yet to finish buttoning everything back up. Hence, I haven't tested the 7070 yet. I'm hoping to get it all done tomorrow. Here are some progress pics:

New Silmic II's fresh out 'da mailbox
IMG-20111005-00623.jpg


Power Supply Board (F-2626)
IMG-20111006-00628.jpg


Driver Circuit Board (F-2624)
IMG-20111006-00630.jpg


Motherboard (F-2625) *Note the three tiny light blue caps in this pic. I didn't notice during my initial inventory but they are non-polar, so I'll have to go grab some replacements for these tomorrow.
IMG-20111006-00631.jpg


IMG-20111006-00639.jpg


Tuner Circuit Board (F-2614) *I also did the FM Muting Circuit Board (F-2615) but only the back is visible in this pic.
IMG-20111006-00638.jpg


Fallen Soldiers *Upon closer examination I found several of these to be physically distorted (bloated), but only one was too swelled up to stand on it's end.
IMG-20111006-00637.jpg


I can't wait to test this thing out! I've never recapped anything this extensively before so I'm excited to hear what kind of difference this will make. The tentative plan is to slowly bring it up to 110V on the variac but I'm not sure about a procedure. I'm thinking 20V increments at 15min intervals? Any suggestions?
 
Sheesh, I forgot to update this thread! Everything went well, and the 7070 sounds great! I'm not all that well versed in descriptive audiophile jargon but it sounds a little better in pretty much every way. Like as if there was a lightweight blanket over the speakers before. Not necessarily louder but more full sound if that makes sense. That said, it sounded great before and my wife didn't even notice a difference (she prefers the system with a remote) so who knows... :dunno: I think the vast majority of the caps were in good shape before I replaced them - no leaking or sonic issues to note.
I would say it was worthwhile because I like doing this sort of thing and the caps are cheap. Not sure I'd feel the same way if I had to pay for labor.


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