SOMETHING Cheaper than Deoxit

housemartin

Active Member
Has anyone used Max Electronic Contact Lube Lubricant Cleaner? I know there are a lot of different products out there and figure there MUST be one that is comparable to Deoxit that isn't $15 for a 5oz bottle. I was told that this is a really awesome product (by the seller:thmbsp:). Does anyone have any experience with it?
 

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Not familiar with Max, but if you're just looking to clean, then CRC electronic contact cleaner at the big box store will do the trick. Around 5 bucks a can in the auto dept.
 
I've tried using cheaper alternatives (such as CRC) and nothing does as good of a job as Deoxit. It's worth it's weight in gold. Not just being a fan boy, it's my honest opinion. Now, the need to add faderlube after every application is questionable though.
 
There's a product called "de-ox-id" made by cg electronics. It's cheap and it works good.
 
I've tried using cheaper alternatives (such as CRC) and nothing does as good of a job as Deoxit. It's worth it's weight in gold. Not just being a fan boy, it's my honest opinion. Now, the need to add faderlube after every application is questionable though.

+1 for DeOxIt. I've got a can of CRC sitting around gathering dust. There's a reason DeOxIt is expensive, and that's because it's got better ingredients. A can lasts a long time, why not use the best?
 
I recommend getting a bottle of the brush on full-strength stuff. That lasts for AGES and using it whenever possible keeps you from burning through spray cans.
 
Yeah, my experience here is to stick with the good stuff. I have used several of the cheaper stuff, but always comeback to DeOxit.
 
Ditto what they said. I'm cheap, wish there was something comparable, but I haven't found it if there is.
 
I keep posting this and can't seem to get anyone to listen to what I am trying to point out. I have been doing this for years with no negative effect and find that my procedure works very well. All you need is a syringe or some spare needle bottles.

When you buy D5 Deoxit it is 5% Deoxit and the remainder of the ingredients, including a lot of naptha (read lighter fluid), fill the rest of the spray bottle. I have been making my own version of D5 by using 5% of 100% Deoxit and mix it with either 92% or 100% isopropyl alcohol to fill out the additional 95%. I put this in a spare needle bottle I have. The alcohol helps spread the Deoxit into cracks and crevices that the full strength stuff won't move through. The alcohol helps accelerate the drying process and still leaves the residue of the Deoxit, which is what you want to happen. I have used this on everything I have worked on for the last 4 years and not once have I ever had a bad reaction from any device. The alcohol also added a good flushing action that helps with really dirty pots and switches. Alcohol, also, will not damage the carbon based pots and faders that D5 can harm. This combination really works and it stretches a bottle of D100 a very long way. Give it a try and get back with me and let me know that what you think.

I have even had AK members yell at me in their posts about this being a stupid idea and that I don't know what I am doing, but it is not a stupid idea. It really works.
 
I keep posting this and can't seem to get anyone to listen to what I am trying to point out. I have been doing this for years with no negative effect and find that my procedure works very well. All you need is a syringe or some spare needle bottles.

When you buy D5 Deoxit it is 5% Deoxit and the remainder of the ingredients, including a lot of naptha (read lighter fluid), fill the rest of the spray bottle. I have been making my own version of D5 by using 5% of 100% Deoxit and mix it with either 92% or 100% isopropyl alcohol to fill out the additional 95%. I put this in a spare needle bottle I have. The alcohol helps spread the Deoxit into cracks and crevices that the full strength stuff won't move through. The alcohol helps accelerate the drying process and still leaves the residue of the Deoxit, which is what you want to happen. I have used this on everything I have worked on for the last 4 years and not once have I ever had a bad reaction from any device. The alcohol also added a good flushing action that helps with really dirty pots and switches. Alcohol, also, will not damage the carbon based pots and faders that D5 can harm. This combination really works and it stretches a bottle of D100 a very long way. Give it a try and get back with me and let me know that what you think.

I have even had AK members yell at me in their posts about this being a stupid idea and that I don't know what I am doing, but it is not a stupid idea. It really works.

hmm.. it makes sense. D5 has flushing and fast drying properties, and that's the only difference between D5 and D100. so, you're saying by mixing the 5% with 95% alcohol, it gives you both of those properties? alcohol may not dry as fast as the naphtha though, and doesn't it have more cleaning property?....why not use naphtha instead of alcohol then? i don't know if they sell 100% naphtha. if i can find a spray bottle with straw attachment, i guess why not try it.

AK sponsors will not like this idea though....:scratch2:
 
The sponsor thing may be why I got yelled at. I originally came up with the idea on an amp with faders that were open to the air and horribly dirty. Numerous doses of Deoxit 100 was not working; so I flushed the faders with alcohol and then Deoxited the fader. That worked and stayed working. You two are the first people to acknowledge my comments about this.
 
I've tried using cheaper alternatives (such as CRC) and nothing does as good of a job as Deoxit. It's worth it's weight in gold. Not just being a fan boy, it's my honest opinion. Now, the need to add faderlube after every application is questionable though.
You don't need to add Faderlube for every application.

But Faderlube is recommended for pots if you use D5.
I just use D5 for other switches and contacts.

Here's markthefixer's recommendations on use of Deoxit D5, Faderlube, and Gold from the Deoxit Tutorial:
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showpost.php?p=3693359&postcount=117
Generally he says if you use Deoxit D5 on pots, follow up with Faderlube to renew lubrication. If you can afford it, use Gold for preventive maintenance to slow subsequent corrosion.

Myself, I supplement Deoxit by using Puretronics Extra Strength on the boards and contacts. 13.5 oz for $5.99. I save Deoxit/Faderlube for the main switches and controls.

Some will use Deoxit 100 or Faderlube only on pots because of the safety concerns of some pots. There are threads which claim possible damage to some vintage Sherwood volume controls.

And Faderlube has been recommended for use on sliders like those on equalizers.

The sponsor thing may be why I got yelled at. I originally came up with the idea on an amp with faders that were open to the air and horribly dirty. Numerous doses of Deoxit 100 was not working; so I flushed the faders with alcohol and then Deoxited the fader. That worked and stayed working. You two are the first people to acknowledge my comments about this.
In any of my Deoxit posts, I always mention D100 as an option actually because of your previous posts. It's just not as readily available locally as Faderlube or even D5 so I do mention the other common formulas I am familiar with.

I have had no problems with Faderlube on sliders. Since I always have Faderlube on hand, I don't bother with DIY mixes.
 
100% naphtha is available in a can at hardware stores. It's a light hydrocarbon solvent, similar to paint thinner only fast evaporating, and thus more flammable if you aren't careful about the fumes.

Just FYI, if you were to look at the sticky in this forum called Homebrew Cleaning Fluids, you would see that AK is opposed to posting recipes and such due to, I assume, liability concerns. Therefore I won't post mine.

One thing that hasn't been mentioned is that when cleaning a pot (etc.) that is really cruddy, you can use a cheaper product for sheer volume to flush out 99% of the crud, and finish up with the good stuff. I keep Faderlube and Pro Gold for that finishing touch. Like the first watt in amplifiers, the last squirt is the critical one in cleaning and treating.
 
i use servisol super 10
SUPER10_A500.jpg
 
At least I now know why my effort to explain my method were ignored. I never noticed the sticky about cleaning fluids. I will restrain myself in the future. Also, I always thought that D100 was 100% Deoxit. You can learn a thing or two here at AK. My apologies to the Mods and AK.
 
Once I tried the deoxit, I never had a need or desire for anything else.

I use a large spray bottle of cheaper cleaner to flush boards and inside a dirty chassis. I'm not sure of the brand but it is available at Fry's. It might be the CRC. It does not leave any kind of greasy residue.

I will say that the Radio Shack contact cleaner is pretty much useless unless you only need a lubricant.
 
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