General Info on TEAC X-1000R RTR

[stereofisher]

Reel to Reels seem to be showing up here lately. The latest is a very large TEAC X-1000R. This bad boy is big. Ten and half inch reel to reels. Our appliance installer found it today free. Glad he wants to keep her. I have too much stuff and with rents getting out of hand here in SE New York I have to look at different quarters. Will keep a 6010 Vintage si sending me and a 1230. I get to play with the 1000. Going to be tough going down to one system from three

Anyone familiar with these beasts? Have not opened her up yet. Are these direct drive on the reel motors with a belt on the center motor? Seems that way. Goes into FF and RR. The casptans dont engage but that could be the usual TEAC problem. There are two tape guides that appear to be missing screws that hold them on. One is to the left of where the tape goes into the heads and the other is where the tape exits. Looks like a belt is out on the center motor. Will see when I get inside. Another issue seems to be the button for record is flashing when it on. Any clues will be appreciated Before pics posted. Any idea what size screw I need to hold the guide on.

Thanks Eric

[Vintage TX]

So a new project to fix Eric ?
Yes, it has 3 motors and capstan should turn when the tension arms are halfway lifted, but take that tape off of the faceplate.
You need M-2 metric nut for holding the tension-roller in place.
If this machine it's a keeper, try find the correct washer + original washer for each roller. X-2000 R and X-10 uses the same cap Eric.
About the blinking record light, press RECORD MODE ON/OFF and see what happens.

[Vintage TX]

Taking it apart:
Start with the wood-cabinet, 3 screws on each side and 2 long ones located on each L + R plastic leg.
Slide carefully out the deck from the cabinet.
Now you have a plastic cabinet left to take off, each side has a phillips screw to hold it in place.
Take those out with the deck standing up and carefully slide out the cabinet + power-cord thru the plastic opening on the back.

Now you probably get scared when looking what's inside Eric.
The fun begins:

[Vintage TX]

Don't worry about the large pc-board on the upper section, leave that alone.
Start cutting the 3 tie-strap holding the wires in the right place:


Now the whole assembly plate has 6 screws holding it:
See red marks:


And another on the right side attached to a bracket:


Carefully lower the whole plate down in a angle between the bottom section and upper pc-board and unplug the plastic connection plug for capstan-motor supply board:


Now the belt can be reached that probably is stretched or broken:



Both fly-wheels need to be taken off to reach the linkage controlling pinch-roller engagement that usually is gummed up and doesn't move properly when pressing play-mode.

Take the head-cover off the front and you find a black plastic washer on the shaft on each capstan-arm, pry carefully off this washer and slide the Left fly-wheel out from the back at the same time, don't loose that washer now.
See red arrow:


Here is the L-flywheel with plastic washer next to it + old gummy belt.



And how it looks inside:

[Vintage TX]

Do the same thing with the R-fly-wheel and carefully lift it out from the base:
Don't mix them up now, they are different making the belt change location on the fly-wheels when auto-reverse in engaged.
This is why it's very important to buy the correct drive-belt, wrong belt will create problems with tape-slack, no auto-reverse function or burned up capstan-motor. Spend $ 15.00 for a original belt from Teac Eric.

Here are both fly-wheels off:


Now to the linkage controlling the pinch-rollers, see the bracket in the center, oil at the pivot-points with gun-oil or sewing machine oil.
No WD-40.



Just a couple of drops on each point and lift the pinch-roller shafts from the front until they fall down without any resistance.
This can take a little time but be patient, 10-15 minutes and they will work like new again.

[Vintage TX]

When linkage is working 100 % start cleaning following with head-cleaner:
Each surface on the fly-wheels, old belt-residue get stuck and will create problems later if not cleaned properly.
Wipe everything dry afterwards with a cotton-towl.


Same with the capstan-motor pulley:



See how much black crud came of this pulley:


When both fly-wheels and capstan motor pulley is clean, its time to mount the fly-wheels back on.
Start with the R-one (backside) and carefully slide the shaft in thru the hole:


Before it's totally at the right position, you must slide the plastic washer back on, otherwise the whole headstack need to be removed, and we don't want that part.

See the angle here Eric:


Slide the washer on all the way, and that will hold the fly-wheel in position until the assembly bracket is back on.



Do the same thing with the L-fly-wheel and now slide the new drive-belt on both fly-wheels, position doesn't matter.
In this picture is how the capstan-motor pulley is located on the drive-belt.
Have seen several decks with wrong belt and pulley on top instead, it goes from the bottom and up.

[Vintage TX]

Before you mount the assembly plate back on, clean the old grease off each fly-wheel center shaft, and put a small amount of Lube-Gel on the steel-ball.


Attach the plastic connector back on the capstan-motor and slide the whole assemby-plate back in the same way it came out. Be careful so now wires are between and in the fly-wheels.
You need a long screw-driver or hook to lift up the drive-belt on to the pulley at the same time you guiding the plate back.
Also be sure the Timer function plate goes in the slot on top of the assembly plate.
This can be little tricky but have patience:

See here:


Attach the lower center screw on the plate first, but don't tighten it until all the other 5 is attached.
When it's all back in place, spin one fly-wheel both directions with your finger so the belt guide itself, and you can check how the belt changes position on both fly-wheels.

Attach new tie-straps on the right side + check so no wires are close to the fly-wheels.

Check the timer buttons on the front so they function properly.

Mount the pinch-rollers back on and put one small drop of gun-oil on each shaft, be sure you have those small black washers on each side of the pinch-roller.


Washer:


Covers back on the pinch-rollers, and check the movement up and down, should be smooth on both L + R.


Time to test with tape and power on:


Press Play in both directions and check the belt from the back and see how it behave.
Try this several times before you assembly the plastic cabinet and wood-cabinet.

Good Luck Eric.
I hope it goes well with the surgery.

[TWantiques]

OUTSTANDING!

A great "how to" Rolf. Thanks for taking the time and sharing your knowledge and pics.

This would be a good sticky.

Terry

[Vintage TX]

Thanks Terry, hope it helps.

[OMI]

Same for an X-20R????

[Vintage TX]

Yes it is OMI, just less wires in the way to take the assembly plate off.

[goldear]

Great post Vintage! Thanks!

[Vintage TX]

You welcome Gold Ear

[stereofisher]

I will get to her on Thurs evening. Looks like a belt issue. Got FF and REW. Will take her apart and take a look. Its unlike any TEAC I have worked on before.

Two things I have to look at. Belt and the pinch rollers moving into play. Thanks for the neat post Rolf. The deck is dirty but a keeper. I will follow your steps to the "T" and will goto TEAC to get a belt.

Eric

[Vintage TX]

Great Eric, keep us posted how the surgery goes.
Check your PM, I need your address for the Teac.