Heresy's and fusing?

bbqjoe

Void where prohibited
I have a set of H-WO's.
Serial# 97U115 & 6

I recently acquired them.
1 Has a blown tweeter.
I just ordered a pair of diaphragms.
I have not opened these speakers yet.

I read somewhere online (can't seem to find it again) about using a 1 amp fuse to protect these K77 tweeters.

Do these speakers have fuses inside?
(never seen that before)

If not, are people installing them inline somewhere inside, or drilling and mounting fuse holders accessible from the outside?
 
I have a set of H-WO's I just acquired.
Serial# 97U115 & 6

I recently acquired them.
1 Has a blown tweeter.
I just ordered a pair of diaphragms.
I have not opened these speakers yet.

I read somewhere online (can't seem to find it again) about using a 1 amp fuse to protect these K77 tweeters.

Do these speakers have fuses inside?
(never seen that before)

If not, are people installing them inline somewhere inside, or drilling and mounting fuse holders accessible from the outside?

No fuses inside.
 
No fuses in the crossovers or inline with the tweeter ,if a tweeter blows in a Klipsch heresy it's from feeding the speaker highly distorted power ,the 100 watt continuous 400 watt peak power ratings are extremely underrated ,with clean power the heresy can easily handle double it's RMS wattage rating so that leaves clipping as the culprit for blown tweeters ,I hammer my heresys for years without a hiccup .

Rebuild the tweets and install them back to OEM spec ,as long as your amp isn't a funky model with high distortion levels ,or clips easily then there is no need to put a fusable length in the signal path .
 
No fuses in the crossovers or inline with the tweeter ,if a tweeter blows in a Klipsch heresy it's from feeding the speaker highly distorted power ,the 100 watt continuous 400 watt peak power ratings are extremely underrated ,with clean power the heresy can easily handle double it's RMS wattage rating so that leaves clipping as the culprit for blown tweeters ,I hammer my heresys for years without a hiccup .

Rebuild the tweets and install them back to OEM spec ,as long as your amp isn't a funky model with high distortion levels ,or clips easily then there is no need to put a fusable length in the signal path .
Thank you. That's what I was wanting to learn.
I know I didn't smoke it.
My amp is 60 watts, and as of yet, has never passed high noon on it's turny thing.
 
A while back we had some people over for my daughters graduation. My son wanted to play some rap song on my system to show his buddies the Heresys , it was playing pretty loud. Then my daughter who had a few too many drinks walked by and cranked the volume til it pegged. I turned the pre off fast but it was the worst sound I ever heard, the amps were only 40 watts but the distortion.... anyway I replaced the obviously blown mid on one speaker and they seemed ok. Curious if the tweeters were damaged , I pulled one out and although it played and measured ok, the "surround" of the ti diaphram was puckered and wavey. It was as if it over extended and distorted the surround material. I ordered another Klipsch mid diaphram and ordered Crites Ti tweeter diaphrams. All is well now, relatively inexpensive and easy to fix. Thats the great thing about those drivers....
 
A while back we had some people over for my daughters graduation. My son wanted to play some rap song on my system to show his buddies the Heresys , it was playing pretty loud. Then my daughter who had a few too many drinks walked by and cranked the volume til it pegged. I turned the pre off fast but it was the worst sound I ever heard, the amps were only 40 watts but the distortion.... anyway I replaced the obviously blown mid on one speaker and they seemed ok. Curious if the tweeters were damaged , I pulled one out and although it played and measured ok, the "surround" of the ti diaphram was puckered and wavey. It was as if it over extended and distorted the surround material. I ordered another Klipsch mid diaphram and ordered Crites Ti tweeter diaphrams. All is well now, relatively inexpensive and easy to fix. Thats the great thing about those drivers....
I hate it when things fail.
But I hate it less when it's user repairable. :)
 
Or upgrade from the K-77 to a pair of Crites CT-125's or even better the CT-120's. It's more money than the replacement diaphragms but you do extend the high frequency range a good bit and they aren't "delicate" like the K-77's tend to be. They are the easiest speakers to open up and look inside the backs if you own a phillips screwdriver. ;)
 
Or upgrade from the K-77 to a pair of Crites CT-125's or even better the CT-120's. It's more money than the replacement diaphragms but you do extend the high frequency range a good bit and they aren't "delicate" like the K-77's tend to be. They are the easiest speakers to open up and look inside the backs if you own a phillips screwdriver. ;)
I can't imagine needing the high end any more extended than it already it is.
Diaphragms due here Friday.

I think PE and simply speakers have to be about the two of the slowest shippers out there.
 
I am, admittedly, not a fan of Heresy's--I like other Klipsch, just not particularly the Heresy--BUT the last thing I would call them is "fragile". I have heard them beat to hell and back with huge power pro amps, and they lived--not so sure that I survived entirely intact, but they lived. Party on :beerchug:
 
There are definitely many variations of the K-77 tweeter with the "M" version having the better upper high frequency response. It doesn't necessarily make it "better", just different. The earlier versions rolled out just under 13k.
 
Thank you. That's what I was wanting to learn.
I know I didn't smoke it.
My amp is 60 watts, and as of yet, has never passed high noon on it's turny thing.

Joe when you open them it wouldn't be a bad idea to recap the mids/tweets while you're in there (around $3.50 per side via PartsExpress). There are threads on the x-over networks on this site.
 
If they are series 1 Herseys the tweeter is rated a 5 watts rms and won't handle that much level. So be careful. If you have the later models with the more advanced crossovers and factory built tweeters they will take more level for sure. But the speaker definitely will not handle even 100 watts concentrated in the tweeter range. Used as a monitor speaker a little mic feed back and the tweeters are toast. Even as disco fill speakers using amps with Power Guard dedicating 75 watts to each speaker, with out high pass filters and limiting long term high levels and the tweeters will fail. Electronic music is particularly hard on tweeters. Used for normal acoustic music, they should last for ever. I know mine did. Over 20 years. Mine were pushed with a 2505 near 0 db for long periods during parties, never any problems. Crown power amps could take them out in a flash. Mac and QSC amps were more stable and with a built in form of Power Guard too QSC was my preferred amps to use. They had selectable built in HP filters so the QSC amps worked great with all the professional series of Klipsch speakers.

The folks at Crown had a Murphy's law section in their amp manuals. One of the laws said something to the effect that speakers were designed to protect output transistors as the speakers would fail first. Fuses have very specific uses. Some are rated for longer periods before they blow. Thus allow motors to start in tape machines etc where up to 5 times the normal current is required. Some fuses are consider fast blow and allow up to 200 or 300 % short over draw before failing. Fuses the Telephone and computer industry used are much faster. If you fuse the speaker speaker for the RMS rating how is the speaker to be used to its full potential with short 10 to 20 db peaks from classical and jazz music. POP music the peaks average less that 6 db so you are pretty safe. Some of the Klipsch professional speakers were fused, and it did work. So you might look up the specs on the older professional Hersey. I don't remember.
 
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