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https://www.amazon.ca/GS-Supplies-G-S-Hypo-Cement/dp/B00C7PA7UY

The equivalent of $4.60USD/gallon.

$69.99 plus $330 shipping.

Do you mean royalty free music? Something like Music Bakery?

Mass attached to the back of the cone. The adhesive reacts with the cone material and telegraphs through. (My guess anyway.) Is the one with the squares an active driver or passive?

Looks like the Wifi adapter was external and plugged into the USB port.

If you want to keep the EQ in the preout/main in loop, I would put the EQ BEFORE the level control. That way, the level control will attenuate any noise coming from the EQ. So, PRE OUT > EQ > LEVEL CONTROL > MAIN IN.

Monitor Audio Radius 90

Just looking at the back of the unit - are you connected to the pre-out jacks or the fixed output jacks?

I just ordered these for a project. https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0CH8D531S

I repaired a broken balance pot with the paint in this Rear Window Defogger Repair Kit. The crack between carbon track and the rivet/solder pin. Not sure how it would hold up if the crack was in the wiper travel path.

Is C713 installed correctly? The silkscreen can be 'misleading' on some versions of the board.

It might just be a normal amount of transformer hum. That amp is a beast. You might try checking the bias - could be high and drawing more power than necessary at idle.

This thread was helpful with my 2275 phono doing evil things after replacing all transistors with 1845s. Motorboating when input shorted (i.e., during automatic turntable functions), popping noises when adjusting balance, general noise, static, etc. Sine wave looked a bit goofy when adjusting...

Seems to be a German manufacturer. And the German's make good stuff. Vince Shlomi says so.

Manufacturer: "This/these _________________ need at least _______ hours of burn in before they reach optimum performance." Translation: "We know: a) you're going to judge your purchase in the first 10 seconds of use; and b) fear of missing out is a real thing so you'll stick with it if you...

I completely recapped my 105.2s with Falcon Acoustics parts and didn't notice a huge difference. I also have 104.2s. Replaced the FF, but did not touch the crossovers. I think confirming there is actually a fault in the crossover is important before throwing a bunch of expensive parts at it...

Maybe experiment with some cheap caps in the tweeter portion of the crossover to see if the highs liven up. (And test that 1R resistor)

This is a "divide and conquer" approach to troubleshooting. If the fuse blows with no loads on the secondaries, the transformer is shorted. If it doesn't blow the fuse, the short is somewhere else in the circuit. Use a dim bulb tester to save going through a bunch of fuses while troubleshooting.

I think his mom's TV is too old. No ARC.

If making this happen on a budget is important, you could modify the TV. Disconnect the speakers and install a speaker to Line level adapter. Run some RCAs out the back. https://www.amazon.ca/Kuuleyn-Converter-Adjustable-Impedance-Modified/dp/B08NDNRS28

I often 'tap off' the pre-out to add a powered subwoofer. Never had any issues.

If you still have the upper end of your hearing range, I'd pair the 2100 with some 'brighter' speakers. My 2100 never stays in rotation long. I find it a bit 'dark' or congested in the top end.

Moving up the line of cassette decks generally adds 'features' that make them better recording machines. You want rock solid speed, near zero wow and flutter, and the ability to optimize bias to the tape your using when recording. Monitoring off the tape (three head) lets you hear the effects of...

If you pick up a pair of them for 20 bucks then yes, they are good for a $20 set of speakers. I've had probably 15 pairs of them come and go and could never really listen to them for any length of time. I've used a few pair on the work bench until there's an "oops" and they blow up.