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Did you replace the old electrolytics? That is a must.

someone used it for a Jerry rig more than likely.

Cornwalls

The place to eat is The Blue Dolphin Diner at exit 66 just outside of Binghamton. Amazing everything!

Positive thoughts for your niece man. I love my C34V! I pair it with an MC2105. Never used the monitor amp, but have always wondered.

Well, the loudness, when increased, raises treble and bass frequencies. So, this often results in more high end static, as the treble increases. My C34 does this same thing with the loudness control.

Beyma CP-25

Make your own with Belden 9271

MC50 as part of my guitar rig.

the B3 network was what was used in the later CW 1’s and all II’s as far as I know.

how much for the pair?

Well, that Sticker sure as hell ain’t from the wall of sound days. Also, as stated above, it’s very clean for being used in the wall. The input/output mods make sense. It’s near impossible to verify, and that makes the asking price outrageous IMHO.

Haters gonna’ hate. It’s that simple. The trick is to not internalize their crap.

How are your soldering skills? I only ask, because you stated that your knowledge of electronics was very limited.

Pretty sure you can just take off the front top/side cover to get to the potentiometers. The front glass can stay put. Not sure though, as it’s been a while since I was in there.

I used your kit to upgrade my C32 a few years ago. My ribbon cables had become very brittle, and while in the process or recapping the preamp, they literally fell apart with the slightest of movement. I found the kit easy to install, and of high quality parts. Thank you very much for your work!

Klipsch Cornwalls with only the 15” driving the lows, Klipsch K52H’s through Altec 511b horns for the mids, and Beyma CP25’s for the highs. The amp is the venerable MC2105. Why? Because it sounds great!

Well, just to follow up on this. I did the update, changing the bias resistors to 18ohm, and removing the noted capacitors, along with changing the value of two others on each board. It is definitely running very cool, but I am still curious about the many different versions of the drivers.

You push in, and then twist to remove the fuse.

R119 and R120.

I do know about those instructions mostly due to your input on other threads, and I appreciate it. However, clinic_ audio, on multiple occasions in threads on this topic, has stated that the bias resistor should be 22ohm and not 18ohm. This is confusing? Unless I am reading him wrong?

I have the 043-899 driver boards in my 2105, and I recently replaced all resistors, electrolytics, and ceramic discs. It appears that my board is a mix n match of different types? I have the 22ohm bias resistors with the .0012 ceramics. C123 and 124 are present, and there is a resistor under...

Love my C32! I replaced all ribbon cables even though they functioned just fine, along with all electrolytics. The cables were very brittle however, and the slightest manipulation caused them to crumble some. I also have a C34V, and use that in my main system. I can’t say I notice much...

I am in Olean as well! Always figured I was the only McIntosh enthusiast in this small area.

Bobby smoked a cigarette?