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Thanks guys - spacers of some sort it is

There's a sub chassis on ebay right now - tempted to get it and be done with it, but I am not informed enough to tell if it's sound. If schedule allows I'll try and redo the pair entirely this weekend. I bought the second table as parts and it's in about the same condition as the table it was...

And then there's that remote plug that can cause the same issue if not present. That got me the first time I encountered a B.

The table I started this thread on has a repro sub chassis and now that you mention it, it is quite a bit lower than the parts table I bought. I guess some investigation is in order. Both tables spin and play records though I only have 1 power supply. This picture has the repro sub chassis...

Thanks for the replies! The Prelude arm I am working on was an ebay purchase, so not original to the table I'm trying to set up. The VTA was bottomed out, so it probably wasn't set up to spec before. My thinking on the angle of the arm WRT the table is that if the arm was rotated towards the...

I thought maybe that little opening was it, but I could barely get a paper clip in there to see if there was a hex. Need to go buy a magnifying glass. Please do let me know the length. I spent some time with my other incomplete Alex yesterday afternoon and it made me realize the one I am...

I am trying to properly set up the prelude arm on my Alex. The auto lift mechanism jumps up a few millimeters too soon. The manual mentions an allen screw adjustment but I can't find it. I don't have the original allen key so i don't know how big it would be. The cueing mechanism seems to...

I've got one with an MPX65 installed in my active system - listening to it as I type. Unfortunately no serial number visible -would be on top of the interconnect box at the back right? Weird combo with the Technics but it works. Time to get my SA20s going I guess For the record I bought it...

Boy I'd like to get an old tube Fisher at my local dump! So far not many tube pieces but a steady stream of solid states - Fisher, Pioneer, Tandberg, SAE and the like. (I have to interject a story here - few weeks ago I got an SX-750 at the dump that had spent 2 weeks in some serious rain...

I tried moving the tubes around in their sockets but got zero change. I'll make a better effort at cleaning all controls. I suppose a good question at this point is - how do I make sure my OPTs are good? I'd hate to spend $ on can caps only to have bad output transformers

Thanks Dave - I made a video of it last night - pretty entertaining, too bad I can't upload one directly here. I should add that the noise is entirely independent of controls and I put a signal in the "Extra" RCA jacks with nothing coming out. I have a feeling I'm in for a learning experience...

Well, I'll take it from the top. Not that many caps to replace. Was hoping to get to a state of fixing problems rather than replacing parts with this one, but maybe not.

I got this 222B the other day. Appears to be all original. I brought it up on the variac today and when I got to about 90 volts it started making all sorts of interesting noises - not just the usual motorboating, but crackling, oscillations with rising frequency - from very low to inaudible...

If you can't fix it PM me - I'm sure I have a spare.

Signal meter seems to work great.

Replaced the 2 electrolytic caps on the IF board and 10uf just off it on the input side - still no change. No fun de/resoldering this board. Some additional Info: 23.9V (24V) at test point 4A on MPX board 16.9V (19V) at test point 3P on IF amplifier board What on the IF board is most likely...

Well, since I don't have an in circuit way to check I just replaced it with an Illinois Orange Drop I had on hand. No Change. It is interesting to me that when I turn it off the volume of the tuner section doubles before fading away. I also just noticed the stereo beacon light is not coming...

Fred, Cleaning and adjusting the muting pot doesn't do anything. I cleaned the selector contacts again - no change from that. I swapped the two 2N2924 transistors and the problem stayed the same, and the meter continues to work, so I don't think it's the transistors. Oddly, when I power the...

I looked at the service manual and lost my nerve... So I just exercise the pot, no equipment required?

Alright y'all - I got the bulk of the bigger electrolytic caps replaced. Unit plays and sounds great through aux. 2500uf 63V seems to be holding up. Next issue to tackle: When I tune in a station I get movement at the meter as expected, but only very faint sound and it seems to go away after...

This was on Reverb right? I was thinking about making an offer and something else got in the crosshairs - probably the 500-T I've been working on for a few weeks. I have been eyeing those tantalum caps too - thanks for carving a path for me.

kappclark - I managed to get the string installed. Stations line up to markings, it turns nice and smooth and the tuner itself pull in stations pretty well. I am happy with the results and to move on to the next project.

Survived - much easier with new string! Ended up half a count off the right position on the only station I get very strong. Case closed!

Thornev - noted - I do plan on upping voltages a bit - t's just the 2500uf 63V cap is $4.81 and anything greater than 63V starts at $20 and the schematic says it will see 55V. I know - stop belly aching... While I'm here - anyone recommend and upgrades I can do cap-wise while I'm in here?

While some other projects are on the back burner I am trying to get through an easy one - the recap of the power supply section on my 500-T. I am recapping because C20 (1000uf 65V) started leaking electrolyte on my workbench when I was testing it - a Ducati cap made in Italy. I replaced it...