3D printing thread - Who's printing what?

Here are some waveguides I 3D printed --
drivers%20only%20loaded.png
Horns%20and%20Grilles%20Mounted.jpg
HornStub.jpg



horn stub assembly pics: http://libinst.com/SynergyDIY/Assy Pics.pdf
 
This print gave me trouble until I used glue stick for better adhesion:
SA-PLATE.jpg
This is for the Not Small Advent conversion that I'm working on.
 
This print gave me trouble until I used glue stick for better adhesion:
View attachment 1438547
This is for the Not Small Advent conversion that I'm working on.

Cool! I'm glad the glue stick worked for you!
Please report back when this piece is in its place. I'm having a hard time envisioning what it is. Is it a replacement baffle for the fried egg tweeter? Or are you working in a new cabinet?
 
Cool! I'm glad the glue stick worked for you!
Please report back when this piece is in its place. I'm having a hard time envisioning what it is. Is it a replacement baffle for the fried egg tweeter? Or are you working in a new cabinet?
You can see the wood prototype version here in the first post of this thread, the
plate covers the old tweeter hole and provides one relocated for a modern tweeter:
https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/not-small-advents.837536/
 
Does anyone know if self tapping or wood screws work into PLA okay?

I have assembled a couple of things that had printed undersized holes. The screw threads bit into the inner walls of the holes. I don't know about screwing into raw PLA. If you have less than 100% infill, there might not be much plastic for the screw to grab.

I think PLA drills OK. You could pre-drill holes.
 
Cool! I'm glad the glue stick worked for you!
Please report back when this piece is in its place. I'm having a hard time envisioning what it is. Is it a replacement baffle for the fried egg tweeter? Or are you working in a new cabinet?
SMALL ADVENT PLATE MOUNTED.jpg
 
Wow! Does the plastic material affect the sound in a noticeable way?

Edit: Those look big. I'm assuming you have a very large print surface.

The walls had to be thick with pretty dense infill. Early ones with low infill would sound sound funny.. The printer has a 300mm x 300mm bed, the big horn was printed in two halve. The smaller "stub" (made to have the mouth extended with plywood) prints in one piece, which just barely fit onto the bed.
 
What are people using for design software?
I'm using DesignSpark Mechanical that is getting the job done but not very easy to
use in my opinion.
 
I've been using Tinkercad. It's quirky, but I'm figuring it out. Not many options for organic shapes, but works OK for geometric shapes. Eventually I'll move to Sketchup Free or maybe straight to FreeCad if I'm feeling confident.
I downloaded DesignSpark Mechanical and was immediately overwhelmed when I tried it. To be honest, though, I only gave it a few minutes.
 
I have been using SolidWorks and TurboCad Pro to create solid models. They are very precise, but definitely not simple to use. I needed the math driven curves to create the profiles of the teeth of these gears.

#1 (and the first) was done several years ago on the 3D printing system at our local library. Think they charged 25¢ per gram and I guess I got my money's worth.
#2 was done by Shapeways and they finally admitted that they did not have the resolution to print 40 teeth on a disk the size of a penny.
#3-5 were printed by a friend and it took three iterations to get all of the dimensions just right.

The four nubs on the lower side of the disk were used to stabilize the object during printing. These are easily removed with a sanding disk on a Dremel tool. It would be nice to print the shaft with the gear, but I am not sure that it could withstand the torque.

5 iterations of 3D print.jpg
 
I've been using Tinkercad. It's quirky, but I'm figuring it out. Not many options for organic shapes, but works OK for geometric shapes. Eventually I'll move to Sketchup Free or maybe straight to FreeCad if I'm feeling confident.
I downloaded DesignSpark Mechanical and was immediately overwhelmed when I tried it. To be honest, though, I only gave it a few minutes.

I'm having a very hard time with DesignSpark but will keep using it for very simple designs.
I'm going to try asking questions on the DesignSpark forum. I started a thread so we can
help each other in case anyone else is using it:
https://audiokarma.org/forums/index...hanical-free-for-3d-print-design-help.860858/
 
I have been using SolidWorks and TurboCad Pro to create solid models. They are very precise, but definitely not simple to use. I needed the math driven curves to create the profiles of the teeth of these gears.

#1 (and the first) was done several years ago on the 3D printing system at our local library. Think they charged 25¢ per gram and I guess I got my money's worth.
#2 was done by Shapeways and they finally admitted that they did not have the resolution to print 40 teeth on a disk the size of a penny.
#3-5 were printed by a friend and it took three iterations to get all of the dimensions just right.

The four nubs on the lower side of the disk were used to stabilize the object during printing. These are easily removed with a sanding disk on a Dremel tool. It would be nice to print the shaft with the gear, but I am not sure that it could withstand the torque.

View attachment 1440885

Out of curiosity I checked and Tinkercad and it has a few premade gear templates. You can adjust the number and shape of teeth. I put this 40 tooth gear together in about 3 minutes. A few prototypes are reasonable to get everything to work out. I haven't tried to print it out, but at least there was no math involved!





tinkergears.jpg
 
Fusion360. Not easy to start with, but once you 'get it' (in spite of the lack of decent documentation!) it becomes pretty quick and easy to design engineering type things. Free to use if you don't make more than $100k/yr in your operation.
 
The Philco Slant series are notorious for bad auto tune pushbuttons, they disintegrate. I have most of the models in the Slant series and at least one has crumbling pushbuttons.

I believe those available from various antique radio suppliers and ebay as reproduction parts.
 
I did most of my design work about 1½ year ago. Looks like some of the programs may have improved. There are quite a number of parameters involved in the equations, and I had some mighty good help "looking over my shoulder".

I know that my gear works, and meshes correctly with the pinion. So I'll stick with what I have. Thanks - - -
 
I did most of my design work about 1½ year ago. Looks like some of the programs may have improved. There are quite a number of parameters involved in the equations, and I had some mighty good help "looking over my shoulder".

I know that my gear works, and meshes correctly with the pinion. So I'll stick with what I have. Thanks - - -

If that gear works I wouldn't do anything differently, either!
While in many cases "close enough" designs will work, small gears certainly need greater precision.

Sorry if I came off as "look at what I can do" bragging. My intention (though not clear) was to avoid discouraging 3D printing newbies from getting their feet wet. Some of the software is expensive and confounding and could be a barrier to folks just getting started.
 
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