So, it hasn't ferrofluid?
How to Re-Dope Snell Tonegen/Foster Tweeters (Model E, J, K; gens. I & II)
EDIT: It does!
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After significant high frequency loss, I performed this operation on a pair of NHT 1.3A's. The older NHT tweeters are essentially the same as the Snells and are made by Tonegen. Johnny Law's instructions are excellent and he warns to be CAREFUL removing the dome in step one. By far, the trickiest step is lifting the dome backing plate from the magnet. The adhesive is pretty tenacious. You have lift very evenly and only lift around the perimeter of the backing plate. Take your time and use baby steps when lifting the backing plate. If using a knife, you can very easily put a dent in the voice coil when the adhesive lets go (which of course I did). Luckily, the tiny dent in the voice coil was correctable at unknown affect. Overall result of the re-dope was certainly a huge improvement.
Danzilla
Active Member
BTW, didn't have to submerge the whole assembly. Maybe took a little longer, but just rubbing the surface with a Qtip dipped in MS was enough to clean them up fine (95%), like someone else suggested. Just leaving a little of the old material around the edges. Thanks for the tips. Still haven't gotten around to reapplying a doping agent. Hesitating over using the simple solutions and hoping some other ideas will pop up for it to be more like the original.
Alan Burnham
New Member
Thanks for this!
Alan Burnham
New Member
I'm having a problem getting my tweeters out, they are seriously glued in, afraid of damaging the cabinet, did anyone have this problem? Snell J lls.
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I may have had to trickle some isopropyl alcohol into the gap between the tweeter and the cabinet (so it could wick down to the adhesive and soften it up) ... but I can't remember.
Another way to do it may be to remove the woofer, reach into the cabinet, and push gently from the back.
Alan Burnham
New Member
Thanks, I tried pushing the back, with the woofer out, no joy and I pushed very hard. I put some silicone grease (food grade) on the tweeters last week and they sound and look much better today. I will try the alcohol sometime soon. I also bought a pair of Morel MDT-29 tweeters to try also. Thanks for your fast reply!
Danzilla
Active Member
A method I've used a number of times is finding a few larger screws that just barely fit the holes. Get them started into the metal of the tweeter (woofer, etc), maybe half a turn to one full turn (but not into the frame of the speaker). Then use pliers to pull on the screw head. Doesn't have to be a screw either. Saw pics of one professional who commonly uses a hanging hook with a threaded end, like one you might use to hang a bicycle by it's tires. The large hook end gives a good hand hold to pull with.
PS. Don't be tempted to use both hands on the pliers and yank. End up ripping out wires that way. One hand on the pliers (hook, etc) and one in front of the tweeter and speaker to keep it from coming flying out.
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This Tonegan HAS ferrofluid , I have them.
Thanks! I'll edit my previous post to correct that. My memory breaks down faster than speaker foam.
rromeo
Active Member
Just got done doing this...Thanks for the tips! Not too hard to do. Not earth shattering but definite improvement in the highs...airiness around vocals etc...got some poor mans Audio Note speakers now! Snell J/IIs..... Very pleasant speakers....I will still possibly get some Audio Notes if the right deal comes my way as they are truly amazing but for now I can be happy with these....
rromeo
Active Member
After a week or so I have to say that this didnt work out well for me.....after the shellac really dried the highs are now actually worse...I probably put too much on etc...So...I contacted Atomic Hifi and bought two new replacement tweeters that come with capacitors and resistor to bring the crossover in spec with the new tweets...only $210...good deal it seems. I will report back when I receive them and install the new parts....
rromeo
Active Member
Got the replacement tweeters and resistor and caps...pics attached.
Installed....only issue was that the replacement tweeters magnet is too wide for hole so had to file the hole wider (atomic hifi warned me about this)... I asked what was the tweeters they sent me...they answered that they are specially made for them etc....I suspect that is bs...you'd think they would fit if that were the case....still the final result is very good. Sound great!!!
Installed....only issue was that the replacement tweeters magnet is too wide for hole so had to file the hole wider (atomic hifi warned me about this)... I asked what was the tweeters they sent me...they answered that they are specially made for them etc....I suspect that is bs...you'd think they would fit if that were the case....still the final result is very good. Sound great!!!
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Thank you for this encouraging how-to!
Re-doped my Tonegan tweeters for my pair of J2 today and I'm very satisfied. Mine did not have ferrofluid and I chose water based acrylic varnish, brushed on 3 thin layers. Does a lot better in the TestHiFi app and sounds amazing (with my Audio Innovation 500 & Lenco) for the first time since I got them. I would not have had the courage without this help. Thanks again!
Re-doped my Tonegan tweeters for my pair of J2 today and I'm very satisfied. Mine did not have ferrofluid and I chose water based acrylic varnish, brushed on 3 thin layers. Does a lot better in the TestHiFi app and sounds amazing (with my Audio Innovation 500 & Lenco) for the first time since I got them. I would not have had the courage without this help. Thanks again!
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HamboneF18
Super Member
For soft domes, butyl is hard to beat. But it has to be very thin. For years I’ve used clear butyl thinned down to 95% thinner, 5% butyl. Thinner is 50% naphtha and 50% Stoddard Solvent. Small artists paint brush to apply.
HamboneF18
Super Member
Lowe’s.
