Just picked up a JVC/Nivico SRP-471E-5

[adrian78m]

Stopped into our local thrift store to see if there were any goodies, and walked out with a JVC/Nivico SRP-471E-5, for $10.

The motor works, as well as speed changer. The tone arm looks good. Even the cartridge looks ok.

A few issues though:

- It does not turn off - starts spinning as soon as you plug it in. Any idea what might be causing that?

- No sound when connected to a receiver. Found out that the very fine wires from the tone arm deteriorated and are gone. In the process of rewiring that.

All in all, what do you think? Good TT? I've seen some in good condition sell for $100+. I also read that JVC did not make many idler models, so is this a lesser seen TT nowadays?

About the photo: there was some kind of paper disk laying on the platter that I forgot to remove before taking the pic.

 

[adrian78m]

Even the motor mounts are still good, which I hear is a common problem with these.

 

[EngineerNate]

Cool table, one of the rare early Japanese idlers.

 

[adrian78m]

Anyone know what stylus this table takes?

 

[adrian78m]

Maybe this? https://www.needledoctor.com/JVC-DT29-Stylus

 

[EngineerNate]

What's the cart on it?

 

[Nat]

I have one, bought, in pieces, from a fellow Aker. I faked the very soft grommets (which had melted) with silicone foam and replaced the pulley which had distinct wear marks. A lot of other work was involved because it is a surprisingly complex table. It is an idler drive, but rather than the usual motor suspended from pliant grommets driving an floating idler against the inner platter, this on has a fully suspended motor and eddy brake (aluminum disc with magnets swung more or less above and below to control speed), the motor pulley contacting a floating idler, which then contacts a thick dense foam rubber idler mounted on the top plate, which turns the platter. (Odd that all this complexity is used to drive a stamped steel 10 or 11 inch platter rather than a cast 12 inch one.) . My idler arm had been bent in all three dimensions, and many of the bearings everywhere were seized, sticky, or as in the vertical bearings for the tone arm, simply missing. (Also, the antiskating filament and weight were missing, and, infuriatingly, someone had cut the harness from the motor to the transformer just an inch away from the pull apart connector - why?)
And then when I got everything back together, replacing the OEM cartridge with the AT 3600, which, if I remember correctly, aligns exactly, I fired it up. It sounded surprisingly good. But then it started slowing down, and slowing down further. I've tried one thing and another, but have decided that probably there is a hole in the insulation of the wire in either the transformer or the motor, and when the component gets hot and the wires expand, there is a short created that bypasses some of the coils needed to maintain the current or the force that keeps things going.
Gave up in frustration for the moment.
Good luck with yours - it has a more modern look than mine since the dustcover is all clear plastic. Mine is a wood frame with a window in the front top.

 

[adrian78m]

Managed to rewire the tone arm, and the table works great. Sounds amazing.

 

[jobrewer1983]

Managed to rewire the tone arm, and the table works great. Sounds amazing.

Nice work @adrian78m,

That was fast! I've been watching one on CL for a good while out in Sac. A good few hours from me. I do travel through it every so often. Maybe I need to try to Sang one. 10 bucks is a great deal




Kind Regards,
John

 

[jobrewer1983]

I have one, bought, in pieces, from a fellow Aker. I faked the very soft grommets (which had melted) with silicone foam and replaced the pulley which had distinct wear marks. A lot of other work was involved because it is a surprisingly complex table. It is an idler drive, but rather than the usual motor suspended from pliant grommets driving an floating idler against the inner platter, this on has a fully suspended motor and eddy brake (aluminum disc with magnets swung more or less above and below to control speed), the motor pulley contacting a floating idler, which then contacts a thick dense foam rubber idler mounted on the top plate, which turns the platter. (Odd that all this complexity is used to drive a stamped steel 10 or 11 inch platter rather than a cast 12 inch one.) . My idler arm had been bent in all three dimensions, and many of the bearings everywhere were seized, sticky, or as in the vertical bearings for the tone arm, simply missing. (Also, the antiskating filament and weight were missing, and, infuriatingly, someone had cut the harness from the motor to the transformer just an inch away from the pull apart connector - why?)
And then when I got everything back together, replacing the OEM cartridge with the AT 3600, which, if I remember correctly, aligns exactly, I fired it up. It sounded surprisingly good. But then it started slowing down, and slowing down further. I've tried one thing and another, but have decided that probably there is a hole in the insulation of the wire in either the transformer or the motor, and when the component gets hot and the wires expand, there is a short created that bypasses some of the coils needed to maintain the current or the force that keeps things going.
Gave up in frustration for the moment.
Good luck with yours - it has a more modern look than mine since the dustcover is all clear plastic. Mine is a wood frame with a window in the front top.

Hey Nat, how you been?

I ended up snagging an SME 3009 SII for the Kenwood. Great combo. Great post!

Kind Regards,
John

 

[Metalownz]

I have one, bought, in pieces, from a fellow Aker. I faked the very soft grommets (which had melted) with silicone foam and replaced the pulley which had distinct wear marks. A lot of other work was involved because it is a surprisingly complex table. It is an idler drive, but rather than the usual motor suspended from pliant grommets driving an floating idler against the inner platter, this on has a fully suspended motor and eddy brake (aluminum disc with magnets swung more or less above and below to control speed), the motor pulley contacting a floating idler, which then contacts a thick dense foam rubber idler mounted on the top plate, which turns the platter. (Odd that all this complexity is used to drive a stamped steel 10 or 11 inch platter rather than a cast 12 inch one.) . My idler arm had been bent in all three dimensions, and many of the bearings everywhere were seized, sticky, or as in the vertical bearings for the tone arm, simply missing. (Also, the antiskating filament and weight were missing, and, infuriatingly, someone had cut the harness from the motor to the transformer just an inch away from the pull apart connector - why?)
And then when I got everything back together, replacing the OEM cartridge with the AT 3600, which, if I remember correctly, aligns exactly, I fired it up. It sounded surprisingly good. But then it started slowing down, and slowing down further. I've tried one thing and another, but have decided that probably there is a hole in the insulation of the wire in either the transformer or the motor, and when the component gets hot and the wires expand, there is a short created that bypasses some of the coils needed to maintain the current or the force that keeps things going.
Gave up in frustration for the moment.
Good luck with yours - it has a more modern look than mine since the dustcover is all clear plastic. Mine is a wood frame with a window in the front top.

There is a speed capacitor that fails and the motor slows down to a measly 32.7 RPM’s. Replace that and you’re golden. Here is mine. In the really cool base. About to go to a new home. I traded it for a Pioneer PL-7E that i just refurbed. Im not sure of the value of the capacitor off hand. But it should be written on it.

 

[Nat]

That's the one I have. I'll check the cap value, which should be listed in the service manual at Vinyl Engine if it's not discernable on the cap itself. Thanks,