JVC SRP-471E-5 Turntable Restoration Project

[dennismiller]

Originally, I began this post in the DIY Forum, but I did not receive any answers to my questions. So I thought this might be better here in the turntable forum.

I bought a JVC SRP-471E-5 Idler Drive Turntable about a month ago. It is from the early 70’s and had one previous owner who bought it Okinawa while in the service.

I think she is a beauty. This is an idler drive table.

It is in relatively decent shape and complete with the original Victor MD1004 cartridge (broken stylus) and a Grado F3E+ in the head shell.

I have a feeling because of some minor damage to the inside of the plinth that it was shipped without the shipping screws or adequate packing.
The grease has dried up to a thick paste and nothing moves freely. The speed selector is completely frozen. The platter will turn under physical force only. I cannot even rotate the platter out of the bearing tube. All rubber in the machine has rot. The motor assembly suspension grommets are soft and falling apart. The idler wheels look good but seem to really hard.

But I have a plan. A complete restoration. Using concepts outline by members here in some of their restoration projects and the ability to “Ask as I go” in this forum, I will end up with a machine I can be proud of.

I have already started with some of the preliminary work. I am looking for manuals, and sourcing some of parts that I plan to replace. I received a service manual for an SRP-471E-Model 3 (early 60’s model in this series). The mechanicals appear to be the same. So I will use this until I can locate the actual manual.

I have bought a parts machine from an AK member. It should be on the way.

I have a good lead for replacement grommets from another AK member as well as possible OEM replacements from an online parts supplier.

I will post pictures as I proceed and ask questions as they needed.

Here are the first pictures. These are the” before” or “as received pictures”.

 

[dennismiller]

Additional pictures:

 

[Balifly]

Could you post some pictures of the headshell and cartridge?

Wondering if my headshell is the original or not.:scratch2:

 

[cactuscowboy]

Looks like a fun project and a good candidate for restoration. Funny how it's 16/33/45 rpm. I would've expected a four speed or three speed with 78 rpm rather than 16.

 

[dennismiller]

I too thought the 16 speed was odd. Never heard of it. So your comment prompted me to research this speed. This is what I found out on Wikipedia:

"A number of recordings were pressed at 16⅔ rpm (usually a 7-inch disc, visually identical to a 45 rpm single). Peter Goldmark, the man who developed the 33⅓ rpm record, developed the Highway Hi-Fi 16⅔ rpm record to be played in Chrysler automobiles, but poor performance of the system and weak implementation by Chrysler and Columbia led to the demise of the 16⅔ rpm records. Subsequently, the 16⅔ rpm speed was used for radio transcription discs or narrated publications for the blind and visually impaired, and were never widely commercially available, although it was common to see new turntable models with a 16 rpm speed setting produced as late as the 1970s."

"Seeburg Corporation introduced the Seeburg Background Music System in 1959, using a 16⅔ rpm 9-inch record with 2-inch center hole. Each record held 40 minutes of music per side, recorded at 420 grooves per inch."

Interesting! 78 would have been a better choice.

 

[dennismiller]

My first request for help.

I was a Navy Electronics Technician for 23 years. But it has been 25 years since I sat at a bench and I feel rusty.

I want to replace the capacitors in the turntable power supply. I am having a hard time finding exact replacements.

I looked at Mouser Electronics but did not get anywhere with respect to the voltage or axial type caps. Maybe a different type of capacitor? Film?
I have included pictures of the capacitors I pulled and a schematic. The schematic is from a manual of a previous model in this series and the values are different.

Maybe they don't need replacement. I just figured because of their are it would be wise.

Any help on suitable replacements would be appreciated.

 

[dennismiller]

Balifly - Here are the pictures of the Headshell and Cartridge.

Right now the headshell holds a Grado F3E+ Cartridge. I plan on remounting the Victor MD1004 on the completed turntable. It is my understanding that the original stylus on the MD1004 was conical. I have purchased an eliptical replacement stylus.

 

[tylerparrott]

I too thought the 16 speed was odd. Never heard of it. So your comment prompted me to research this speed. This is what I found out on Wikipedia

I didn't check the wiki page, but I thought dictation recordings were a big reason why the 16 rpm format existed?

You might want to check out Lenco Heaven for your JVC due to the fact you've got an idler there. The website style might be different, but the navigation is very similar to this site.

Are you just going to return it to factory floor condition, or go all out with it since it's an idle wheel unit?

 

[dnewma04]

That's a very cool turntable you have there. Good luck on the restoration.

 

[dennismiller]

Since this is my first restoration so I think I will try to get close to "Factory Floor Condition". This is just to get me started and to occupy my free time. A hobby if you will.

This is not a high end idler. The platter is stamped steal. I do find the mechanicals interesting. What caught my attention was the speed control uses a magnet that is moved across a steal plate flywheel to provide resistance. The magnet is separated from the flywheel by a very small air gap.

I have already started on the plinth. I will post pictures soon.

 

[Balifly]

It is my understanding that the original stylus on the MD1004 was conical. I have purchased an eliptical replacement stylus.

Thanks for posting the pictures.

The headshell and cartridge are the same.:thmbsp:

Please keep us posted on your progress!

 

[Aerobat]

You might want to sign on to www.diyaudio.com, and post the pics of the old capacitors. Someone there should be able to point you to replacements.

 

[dennismiller]

The table is all tore down for cleaning. A lot of pictures taken and all parts bagged and tagged.

I dropped off the deck at a local auto body shop. It is getting a new coat of paint and clear coat finish. I thought about buying a can of paint and doing it myself but opted for the durable hard finish provided by the body shop.

I cleaned and degreased all the little parts with simple green.

Today I am working on the motor assembly and this is where I need help. I took the motor apart to blow the dirt out and to wipe it down. Now I am ready to re-assemble. My question is on what type lubrication to use? Fine machine oil? Silicone grease? Petroleum or non-petroleum based lubricants?

And would you recommend anything else to do before I put it back together?

Hope the pictures help. Points of concern are at points "A" – Shaft, and "B" – Trust Bearing (at least that’s what I think it’s called).

 

[dennismiller]

You might want to sign on to www.diyaudio.com, and post the pics of the old capacitors. Someone there should be able to point you to replacements.

Aerobat: I took your advise and posted this question on diyaudio. I did get some help and advise. Thanks....

 

[Aerobat]

Aerobat: I took your advise and posted this question on diyaudio. I did get some help and advise. Thanks....

Glad to help -- what did they recommend?

 

[BrocLuno]

For most of the lubes, you have to figure they were before we even had synthetic grease? For the spindle bearing I'd be using sewing machine oil. For the greases, I'd be using gun grease. In some of the harder to reach areas I might use GunSlick grease with graphite as it remains slippery long after it has partially dried (years).

Point is you want something that stays in place and does not dry out. That would be premium highly refined gun oil - say Browning Gun Oil, sewing machine oil from a brand like Singer, or clock oil.

 

[dennismiller]

BrocLuno - Thanks for your advise. I never thought about gun greese. With this info I went out to several local gun shops. None of them had the GunSlick brand. So I picked this up. For the oil I had bought this a while back from a seller on "the auction site".

 

[dennismiller]

Aerobat - At diyaudio they recommended a disk cap .047uF rated 1000v and metal film or polypropaline 1uF rated greater than 200v. I went to a local electronic supply house. They fixed me up. Thanks for your advise.

 

[Aerobat]

Aerobat - At diyaudio they recommended a disk cap .047uF rated 1000v and metal film or polypropaline 1uF rated greater than 200v. I went to a local electronic supply house. They fixed me up. Thanks for your advise.

Cool.

 

[Doug G.]

This is a great thread.

Thanks.

Doug