KLH Model Six Question

I’m looking to buy some KLH model sixes on eBay. The ones I’m looking at were made in their last year in production (1972), are there specific years that were better or worse, any that I should avoid or look for? Also, what’s the most I should spend on them?
 
Last year of production was around 1977. The early model with
the epoxied drivers apparently has a little deeper response.
Switchover to removable woofers happened in ~1963, between
serial no 76xxx and 96xxx. The problem is that removable
tweeters, removable grills and recessed terminal plates were
all phased in at different times. Once the woofer can be seen,
it's obvious, though.

Otherwise, there's not much difference, except maybe for the
vinyl-coated versions. Check ebay for past sales to get an
idea on prices.
 
Last year of production was around 1977. The early model with
the epoxied drivers apparently has a little deeper response.
Switchover to removable woofers happened in ~1963, between
serial no 76xxx and 96xxx. The problem is that removable
tweeters, removable grills and recessed terminal plates were
all phased in at different times. Once the woofer can be seen,
it's obvious, though.

Otherwise, there's not much difference, except maybe for the
vinyl-coated versions. Check ebay for past sales to get an
idea on prices.

everywhere I’ve read the years of production were said to be between 1958-1972.
 
Make sure it has the right looking drivers. My 17s are from 9/72 and 6s from 5/71 driver construction and the black Temple capacitors with the red ends was very similar. The 17 and 6 use the same tweeter, different size woofer. Some you see advertised have had drivers blown and replaced with something else. Wood veneer on particle board in this period. No complaints about the KLH of that vintage. The 17s have seen nearly daily use in the workroom for a number of years.

By May 1971 the 6 serial numbers were over 160,000. If it has not been done will often need new capacitors and surround doping to sound their best. Most of the dope was gone on my 6s when I got them. If you gently push the woofer in and then release if it pops right back out it needs doping. Either that or there is a big air leak in the box.

That vintage of KLH will have a removable woofer which makes redoing a crossover easier.
 
I'm guessing he missed seeing High Fidelity's Buying Guide to Speaker
Systems
and Stereo Review's Stereo Directory and Buying Guide, 1976
Editions :) (Those were close at hand)
 
Make sure it has the right looking drivers. My 17s are from 9/72 and 6s from 5/71 driver construction and the black Temple capacitors with the red ends was very similar. The 17 and 6 use the same tweeter, different size woofer. Some you see advertised have had drivers blown and replaced with something else. Wood veneer on particle board in this period. No complaints about the KLH of that vintage. The 17s have seen nearly daily use in the workroom for a number of years.

By May 1971 the 6 serial numbers were over 160,000. If it has not been done will often need new capacitors and surround doping to sound their best. Most of the dope was gone on my 6s when I got them. If you gently push the woofer in and then release if it pops right back out it needs doping. Either that or there is a big air leak in the box.

That vintage of KLH will have a removable woofer which makes redoing a crossover easier.

Thanks. How do you know if they’re the right looking drivers?
 
Unfortunately the only way to replace the grill cloth on the early 6"s is to cut off the old cloth, then either find some grill frames from the later 6s' and adapt those to fit with velcro or see if VINTAGE AR might have some new ones.....I have bought some from him in the past, but not sure if he has any or would be willing to make them for you...or make them yourself....if you cut the old ones off be sure to re-dope the woofer surrounds with the stuff from VINTAGE AR...accept no substitutes!
 
On the early models, a few people have been able to knock the front baffle
loose out the front, from the back. From the factory, they were glued in and
apparently have one screw about half-way down each side.

But, yeah, generally it requires just cutting the grill cloth off. The option here
is to save the cloth and install it on a frame. Then put a 1/4 round molding all
the way around the inside, on top of the frame, covering the gap in the cloth.

Don't forget the re-dope.
 
OP....just saw that the 6's you are looking at were from 1972....I would think those would have removable grills and drivers.....much easier to deal with on all levels!.......typically if the binding posts are flush with the back of the cabinet, these are early models with epoxied drivers and non-removable grills.....if the binding posts are recessed into the cabinet, then you probably have later models with removable drivers and grills....there may be exceptions due to timing of some changes however.
 
Don’t see any mention of the years it was in production. Isn’t that why you sent to me to begin with?
My point is it was produced until 1977. You asserted they stopped production
in 1972. Now there's some question of production in prior years?
 
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