mpsu10/mpsu60

These onsemis should do the trick.
MPS-U10------MJE15034G
MPS-U60------MJE15035G
 
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Thank you

I was looking at the drivers that are used in the HAflers.
2n3440/2n5415
They have close voltage and gain but are slower. And getting almost as hard to find.
The St versions seem to have better specs.
 
What are you using for a cross reference

Is it just experience/memory?
These even look very close to the originals.
Are you researching these manually? If you are, I don't expect anyone to spend that kind of time on someone else request. And if you did thank you very much.
Or is there a cross reference/database available that is not vendor based? (NTE):thumbsdn:

I've seen the MPSU10/60 used in a good deal of different applications.
Audio driver, video drivers(Sony crt monitors), motor/relay controls ect.
Many arcade machine monitors.
With as many that were used, it would seem there would be more results than what I was getting.

I've attached a pdf of the circuit I've working with.
May give you some other ideas for you DH200 project.
note:eek:n most of the boards I've seen the mpsw92 is a 2n5401. I have used Fairchild 2n5551/5401 and Phillips diodes with no problems.
 
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Is it just experience/memory?
These even look very close to the originals.
Are you researching these manually? If you are, I don't expect anyone to spend that kind of time on someone else request. And if you did thank you very much.
Your welcome..I print out the spec sheets then use either Onsemi's or Fairchilds drilldowns to narrow the search. The more I use it , the more proficient I get. Actually took the printer to print the spec sheet longer than the part search did.
http://www.onsemi.com/PowerSolutions/parametrics.do?id=796&lctn=home
 
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Guys
Im working on getting my APT 1 amplifier rebuilt.
I have 2, one is working fine, the other I'm going to do a rebuild.
Im working on making a list so I can cross or replace any leaky/weak transistors if I find any.
Central Semiconductor makes replacements, but just trying to buy a few is next to impossible. 500 no prob.

bob
 
The pinout is not a problem for me

the gain
the speed
and the voltage
All coming together is what I needed.
Being a Motorola orphan just makes it better.
The SCS circuit seems to rely on close gain. Uses diode control for bias instead of a voltage multiplier.
I'm up to my sixth revision on remakes for the SCS amp boards.
My second revision is working well in a 2450a.
The last I did a better job on the star ground and making it smaller.
I think I went a little too small. Some of the resistors will have to be stacked.
Shorter traces, symetrical, 2oz, single sided, 2 wire jumpers only for 1st stage supply voltage, on a 3"x4" board with plenty of meat on the pads for later repairs if needed. Also pico fuses for the drivers and mosfet supply instead of fusistors.
I think I'll go 3.5"x 4" on the next one to separate resistors better.
The originals are 3.75x5.25 with traces that will lift if you breath on them.
 
What software are you using? I take it your designing new PCB's.
 
just redisgning the boards not the circuit

I been using Expresspcb.
It has limitations and is a little quirky.
Being of meager funds, being free helps.
Most of what I have, I put back together after someone has all but trashed it.
I bought the first SCS as a basket case.
Found out the hard way about how obscure the Hitachi's are.
After putting it back together(which included new boards)I can't help myself.
I like Hitachi lateral based amps.
Personally I think the SCS original board layout sucks.
Unequal, thin, all over the board traces. The boards fiberglass seems to have very little epoxy, which adds to the lifting problem.
I had the first boards made, but I'm making changes often and I can't afford to do that again.
When I redesigned the early boards I was using a circle ground. It doesn't seem to bother the sound quality. But much easier to work with.
I did not make any changes to the circuit design other than adding better protection(picos) and an offset pot. There is no protection circuitry.
I have tried the toner transfer, ink jet embossing powder hybrid and transfer paper.
The method I'm using know is going to sound nuts.
I'm limited down to .75mm width, .5mm spacing traces but for driver boards that works for me.
My mother (she is 73) had a Cricut paper/vinyl cutter. I used it for about a week to cut out some paper foil patterns.Then I bought a used one cheaply knowing I could damage it doing what I'm doing.
I design a foil pattern in Expresspcb, capture the printout in a print to file program. Further edit it in an old version of Corel photopaint 7. To increase the resolution. Use a raster to vector tracer. Then paste into a cutting program. I found the best results by taking a piece of vinyl contact paper, sticking it directly to a blank board, cut out the pattern, peel of the excess, then etch.
With the other methods I had problems with pits and undercutting on anything thicker than 1oz. I would most likely use those in more detailed patterns with lighter foil.
With the cut vinyl method I'm almost comfortable to try 4oz.
I also have a 2600a that I bought working but the offset is too high for me.
That one has been repaired a number of times and the boards show it.
Both amps were used hard in commercial environments.
I intend on keeping both of them. Then maybe will them to my daughter.
So I feel making better boards that if components fails won't take out the Hitachi's is in order.
When I'm finished I'll have boards that can be used in both. And have extras on hand for quick swaps.
Oh yeah, they could also be drop ins for the Hafler's with balanced inputs.
Please take a look at the schematic and specs.
I think the sound quality and power is under rated.
 
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