Should I buy a Bang & Olufsen BeoGram TX2?

RunOutGroove

Super Member
... With the caveat that I guess that it needs some work, but it's only $20! I always thought these tables looked very cool, but I wonder if that's reason even though to own one. Is it likely to be anywhere near the quality of table that that my Technics SL-1300 is? Are these kind of tables pretty easily serviced with pretty typical issues; can I get a new cartridge for it that's worthy and doesn't cost a fortune? If I buy this thing, is it most likely to be sitting in my basement never getting used because it's too difficult and too expensive to fix... are parts for this kind of thing available?

I kind of want to get a better phono cart for my Technics at some point so as long as I'm doing that I could buy one for this B&O and if the sound quality was decent, I think that I'd really dig that James Bond/Clockwork Orange looking machine on the top of my stereo deck, it might be a good investment... or not?

Note: I messaged the seller who seems to be unwilling to get back to me with details of issues or what kind of cartridge it needs so it would really be a bit of a gamble on my part, but only to the tune of $20. The ad does say, "works but needs some love."
 
... With the caveat that I guess that it needs some work, but it's only $20! I always thought these tables looked very cool, but I wonder if that's reason even though to own one. Is it likely to be anywhere near the quality of table that that my Technics SL-1300 is? Are these kind of tables pretty easily serviced with pretty typical issues; can I get a new cartridge for it that's worthy and doesn't cost a fortune? If I buy this thing, is it most likely to be sitting in my basement never getting used because it's too difficult and too expensive to fix... are parts for this kind of thing available?

I kind of want to get a better phono cart for my Technics at some point so as long as I'm doing that I could buy one for this B&O and if the sound quality was decent, I think that I'd really dig that James Bond/Clockwork Orange looking machine on the top of my stereo deck, it might be a good investment... or not?

Note: I messaged the seller who seems to be unwilling to get back to me with details of issues or what kind of cartridge it needs so it would really be a bit of a gamble on my part, but only to the tune of $20. The ad does say, "works but needs some love."

May be an expensive adventure.

Do it if you have a deep pocket and a yearning to have something for show off. :)
 
May be an expensive adventure.

Do it if you have a deep pocket and a yearning to have something for show off. :)

Ha! If I had deep pockets, I'd just buy a fully restored one of these with the very best cart... and some kind of expensive tube preamp to go with it... I'm probably dreaming that there's any way of getting a table like this up and running and performing well on the cheap... I need to stop looking at those ads!
 
I read your post and I believe you have already answered your own question. B&O tables are very nice ( and I have one ) but the questions you are asking show you are likely to have a steep learning curve in front of you. I suggest you upgrade the Technics cart instead.
 
The B&O is a nice turntable. I've worked on a few from them and currently own an RX-2.

I wouldn't suggest you buy it though unless you are prepared to spend money or have a great deal of patience. They are not that hard to work on but the cartridges are rare and not cheap.

I sent 3 MMC-4 or 5 cartridges away to Germany to be retipped. One was dead so I got 2 good ones back, at about $100 each. I also traded some gear for a new MMC-3 so I am now set for probably ever on that table. Typically you can expect to pay closer to $200 or more for a compatible cartridge. The options are very limited and very much proprietary.
 
I've owned numerous Bang & Olufsen Beograms, including the TX2. In fact, the TX2 is sitting on my desk right now, spinning Neil Young "On The Beach" as we speak. It's not quite up to the level of the earlier linear trackers from the 4000 or 8000 series, but it's definitely a worthy turntable in its own right. The big question, of course, is whether or not it has a cartridge installed. If it does but the stylus suspension has given up the ghost (not uncommon), it can be re-tipped. If not, you'll either need to find a replacement on eBay, or buy a new one from SoundSmith, though prices start at $199.95. In any case, for $20, I think you'd be doing pretty well. Here's a photo of my TX2 in action:
tx2_spinning.jpg
 
A quick look on eBay will confirm that B & O tables are more often not working than working. For the cost of repair there are many more choices that make more sense than they do.
It depends on the model. Other than a failed suspension in the MMC4 cartridge, my TX2 worked fine when I got it. After a few years, the little belt which moves the tonearm during playback (separate from the cable which moves it during play/stop operations) broke; a replacement was easy to find from various sources. It's still running on the drive belt which was installed when I got it; it may well be the original. The only other issue I've noticed in the last ten years is an occasional drop in speed during 45RPM playback, which is likely due to a dirty speed pot as is typical for old TTs. Other than this and the past issues outlined above, my TX2 has worked flawlessly for the past decade I've owned it.

Older B&O linear trackers, however, are another story. Both the 4000 and 8000 series often need new capacitors at this point, as is typical for older electronics. The 4000 series also needs lubrication of the mechanism and solenoids, while the 8000 series could use a new drive belt for the precision feedscrew which drives the tonearm carriage, along with lubrication of said screw. Other things can crop up as well, like bad lightbulbs in the sensors or foreign objects which have fallen into the works. My Beogram 8000 has had a few odd issues in the past few years, but worked mostly flawlessly for several years before that. My Beogram 4002s need lubrication and new capacitors, but I expected that, and am prepared to do the work. If you are willing to perform a bit of maintenance, these Beograms can be just as reliable as a linear-tracking turntable from the same era.
-Adam
bg8000_running.jpg

bg4002_lidopen.jpg
 
Ok... sounds like I could be gambling on a pretty expensive project. It looks like the ad is still up though so in light just take that gamble, since it's only $20. The worst outcome would be that it ends up sitting in my basement and hopefully that won;t happen as I can probably find someone who wants to tinker with it even if I don't. I've always liked the look of those tables and if they're sonically very good as well then I want one! Those B&O turntables are about the most aesthetically beautiful audio components that I've ever seen...
 
Last edited:
Do it.

Buy a cart from eBay (cartridge_retipping) or at least have a peek. No affiliation.

I own a B & O 2404 that’s nearly the same.

Love it and they do look great.

Edit: my 2404 is not linear tracker. Thinking of the RX2.

Still. Go get it.
 
Last edited:
I'd do it too for $20. You might not get it fixed up for a while but the effort might be worth it eventually.
 
I bought an RX-2 new back in 1986. Still works, still have it. Fortunately don't play it a lot so the stylus on the MMC5 still looks good and it worked fine the last time I played a record. It is a nice looking turntable. Not looking forward to the replacement cartridge price.
 
The TX-2 isn't my favourite B&O deck as, by the time this range of linear trackers had come out, thier build had been simplified greatly and they didn't sound as good as the equivalent radial tracking decks.

That said, it's still a pretty good performer and at $20, is a no brainer - go and get it. Go on - run!!
 
Ok... I ended up buying this thing (for all of $20) and after inspecting it and testing it out, I have a few observations and questions, which hopefully you folks will have some input on.
  • It does work... nominally. All of the controls work, the LED on the bar next to the tonearm lights up with the speed of it, the platter spins, etc.
  • I'm getting sound out of it in both channels but it's very distorted and it tracks very poorly with it playing a few seconds of music and then some static when it doesn't quite seem to be connecting with the record.
  • I found my stylus cleaning tool and used it to clean the stylus on this thing and that did seem to help but not much...
  • I watched a video on how to remove the cartridge (an MMC4, removed by stabilizing the tonearm with one hand and gently wiggling it off with the other). Unfortunately once I got the cartridge off, I wasn't really able to inspect the tip properly as the little mini-microscope thing I have was too difficult to use for this as even on it's lowest magnification setting it was too strong, making it too pretty much worthless (I really need a simple magnifying glass). I have pretty good close vision though (terrible for anything but close) and as far as I can see without magnification it looks OK.
  • I tested the cantilever and it seems fine - it bounces up and down as it's supposed to.
  • The platter makes a bit of noise when it spins. It seems to grind just a bit at just part of its travel. Seems like there's maybe something rubbing?
  • The platter seems to sit a bit unevenly - it sits a bit higher on one side than the other.


So with all that in mind I wonder what might be the next plan of action...?
  • I see the tiny little scale thing on the side of the tonearm to change the tracking force, but what to adjust it to as a starting point? What other things can I do to tackle the tracking issue?
  • How difficult is it to disassemble this thing to get to the works and then what to look for/adjust to fix the rubbing/uneven platter issues?
  • What are the best online resources to consult for this?
  • This thing is a bit dirty and my light cleaning of the body of the thing with some diluted Simple Green cleaner and a paper towel didn't seem to work very well. It got some, but not all of the crud off. What's the best kind of cleaner for this brushed aluminum surface?
  • Since everything works in a really basic way: the platter spins, it makes sound (distorted an skipping as it is, through both channels), the cartridge might have a worn tip but doesn't appear to be broken, the controls work, LEDs light, etc is this a good starting point for repairing this thing or could I still spend more on it than a perfectly working one is likely to cost? I'm OK just giving this thing to some stereo repair joint if it seems ridiculous to bother repairing it. I'm semi-handy but certainly no electronics expert so it would have to be fairly easy to fix up for me to be likely to be able to do it.
Also, I'm curious about the platter design. When I saw photos of the thing, I assumed that the black lines that go across the radius of the thing are rubber pieces. It seems that they're merely painted on the aluminum platter so there doesn't seem to be anything to grip the record... What could be the rationale for such a design?
 
Last edited:
Congrats on the purchase! I'll try to help you as best I can.
  • First off, are the transport screws released? There are three of them on the underside of the plinth. Make sure they're turned counter-clockwise (in the 'PLAY' direction) until they're spinning freely, as I don't believe there's an end-stop in this direction (there is in the clockwise, or 'TRANSPORT' direction). With any luck, this will solve the noise and level issues with the platter.
  • The intended tracking weight for the MMC4 is 1.2 grams. Just move the slider until the red mark lines up with that point on the scale on the side of the tonearm. Not sure if there's an easy way to balance the arm on a tracking weight scale.
  • Stylus microscopes can be a bit of a pain to use. As long as the tip seems to be OK and the suspension hasn't failed, the cartridge should be OK. The fact that you have sound in both channels is half the battle, I think.
  • Taking it apart is relatively easy. There should be a diagram on the bottom of the plinth showing which screws to remove. Just remember to remove the cartridge and platter, and move the tonearm carriage towards the center. Hopefully, you won't have to do this in order to fix the issue, as I'm not sure what could be going on inside the unit to cause this.
    • Should you need one, a service manual can be found here.
  • The lines on the platter are actually a very thin rubber, I think. The design itself is a relic of the 4000 and 8000 series models, when the lines actually served the purpose of telling the tonearm sensor whether or not there was a record on the platter, and what size it was.
    • The 'second tonearm' on the TX2 is a similar relic; it was originally to the left of the tonearm, as seen in the photos I posted above of my Beogram 8000 and 4002, and it contained an optical sensor which 'scanned' the platter before playback. Now, it's there purely for looks.
  • Not sure off-hand what you'd use to clean the aluminum, except maybe to find polish which is safe for use on aluminum. Be very careful when cleaning the platter, as any solvents may remove some of the aforementioned thin rubber (I know rubbing alcohol does).
Again, hope this helps!
-Adam
 
Last edited:
It depends on the model. Other than a failed suspension in the MMC4 cartridge, my TX2 worked fine when I got it. After a few years, the little belt which moves the tonearm during playback (separate from the cable which moves it during play/stop operations) broke; a replacement was easy to find from various sources. It's still running on the drive belt which was installed when I got it; it may well be the original. The only other issue I've noticed in the last ten years is an occasional drop in speed during 45RPM playback, which is likely due to a dirty speed pot as is typical for old TTs. Other than this and the past issues outlined above, my TX2 has worked flawlessly for the past decade I've owned it.

Older B&O linear trackers, however, are another story. Both the 4000 and 8000 series often need new capacitors at this point, as is typical for older electronics. The 4000 series also needs lubrication of the mechanism and solenoids, while the 8000 series could use a new drive belt for the precision feedscrew which drives the tonearm carriage, along with lubrication of said screw. Other things can crop up as well, like bad lightbulbs in the sensors or foreign objects which have fallen into the works. My Beogram 8000 has had a few odd issues in the past few years, but worked mostly flawlessly for several years before that. My Beogram 4002s need lubrication and new capacitors, but I expected that, and am prepared to do the work. If you are willing to perform a bit of maintenance, these Beograms can be just as reliable as a linear-tracking turntable from the same era.
-Adam
bg8000_running.jpg

bg4002_lidopen.jpg
They are beautiful.
 
Back
Top Bottom